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I'm currently waiting for an Infinity CR+ to get here, this has not helped my impatience...
I think for the review that you should have focused more on a detailed comparison, because I think a lot of people (me included) are not all that interested in knowing how nice either brush is on its own, but a thorough comparison that will let them know exactly why the expensive model costs more so they can easier determine if it's worth it. Although in fairness in this case the only difference, from what my own research told me, is that the Infinity has a more complex rear part and the 2in1 set comes with a 0.15(which you write as 1.5mm in the review) needle rather than a 0.2.
You do have a paragraph that does compare them, and sufficiently I might add, but personally I like to have these things really hammered home when I read up on things. I'm an indecisive bastard, though, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Other than that, good read, good to see more resources on the subject.
Also, I've seen cases where the stores will send out review samples, so might be worth contacting relevant stores to see if they'll help you review the brands that didn't respond.
vundere wrote: I'm currently waiting for an Infinity CR+ to get here, this has not helped my impatience...
I think for the review that you should have focused more on a detailed comparison, because I think a lot of people (me included) are not all that interested in knowing how nice either brush is on its own, but a thorough comparison that will let them know exactly why the expensive model costs more so they can easier determine if it's worth it. Although in fairness in this case the only difference, from what my own research told me, is that the Infinity has a more complex rear part and the 2in1 set comes with a 0.15(which you write as 1.5mm in the review) needle rather than a 0.2.
You do have a paragraph that does compare them, and sufficiently I might add, but personally I like to have these things really hammered home when I read up on things. I'm an indecisive bastard, though, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
Other than that, good read, good to see more resources on the subject.
Also, I've seen cases where the stores will send out review samples, so might be worth contacting relevant stores to see if they'll help you review the brands that didn't respond.
Good catch on the 1.5mm!!! Not sure how I and the 4 other people that proof read the thing missed it.
I hear you about the more detail. It was a balance of how deep to dive vs how much is truly relevant. When I was looking at going into how the trigger can only be inserted one way because of the tentioner I took a step back and looked more at the overall picture of what someone who is just getting into airbrushing is really looking at.
Some stores will send out review samples. I have been in contact with a few
Reviews on Badger and Grex lines are in the works....Iwata, well we shall see.
I hear you about the more detail. It was a balance of how deep to dive vs how much is truly relevant. When I was looking at going into how the trigger can only be inserted one way because of the tentioner I took a step back and looked more at the overall picture of what someone who is just getting into airbrushing is really looking at.
Good point, but I think anyone considering such an expensive airbrush would also like to know some of the more intricate details, even if they don't fully understand it. When you buy something like the Infinity, it's a purchase meant to last a long long time, so it's nice to get an idea of what you can expect later down the line before you make up your mind.
But again, this is just speaking for my personal preferences and what I normally look for when I read up on stuff.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/25 14:03:39
I hear you about the more detail. It was a balance of how deep to dive vs how much is truly relevant. When I was looking at going into how the trigger can only be inserted one way because of the tentioner I took a step back and looked more at the overall picture of what someone who is just getting into airbrushing is really looking at.
Good point, but I think anyone considering such an expensive airbrush would also like to know some of the more intricate details, even if they don't fully understand it. When you buy something like the Infinity, it's a purchase meant to last a long long time, so it's nice to get an idea of what you can expect later down the line before you make up your mind.
But again, this is just speaking for my personal preferences and what I normally look for when I read up on stuff.
Fair point and great feedback.
I can tell you that your impatience is understood. The Infinity is just amazing. I honestly couldn't figure out for the life of me why someone would spend that much on an airbrush until I had it in hand and used it.
The response, or lack thereof, from Badger is somewhat puzzling. Airburshes themselves aside, I've found them to be bar none the most responsive and accommodating company out there, period. That said....
I was a long time Badger fan (still am). Have a bunch of their guns, one of which I do use quite regularly, and I think the 105 is about the best "first airbrush" anyone can get for the price, but after winning an H&S Evolution a couple years ago (prize for Best-in-Show), I have to admit that I now see where Badger needs to improve a little.
H&S's plating is much better and the body is through-plated (at the front at least). This is actually more important that you might think. Beside being easier to clean, the plating protects the underlying metal (somewhat) from solvents. After inadvertently leaving some cleaner in a couple of my guns for an extended period, the Badger's paint chamber eroded down to the brass. The H&S: still looks like new. (This was abuse on my part of course).
H&S's teflon paint tip seal is far more forgiving that Badger's tapered seat. Get the tiniest bit of anything in there, or get carried away with a pipe cleaner, and you will never again get a good seat (not without resorting to bees wax). With H&S, the worst thing that can happen is you need a new seal (to the tune of <$2 each).
If you have ever had to replace a needle bearing (which I grant 99% of you should NEVER have to do) its much easier in the H&S.
And while this is anecdotal on my part, H&S's tips and needles seem to hold up better. Granted they are 2-3 times the price of the Badger spares though.
About the one and only thing I don't like about the H&S is the aperture to the paint chamber. Its small. No, TINY. Even if you take the cup off for cleaning (which I don't recommend as you then have to make sure you clean the threads and seal), its still impossible to "dig" in there with a pain brush and cleaner the way you can with most other guns.
All in all, of my half dozen airbrushes I consider the H&S "the best". I just wish they sold the Evolution Solo with either the .2/2ml OR .4/5ml. I don't like swapping fitting and would rather have two guns but the only way to do that is buy a Duo AND a solo....and end up with about $80 worth of redundant parts.
Something to be aware of with the H&S: it is FAR more frugal with air. Thats a good thing, except if you have a tankless compressor: They use so little air that even with the trigger held down a tankless will want to start/stop constantly which is bound to cause undue wear and tear over time.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2016/01/25 15:11:07
Sunsanvil wrote: The response, or lack thereof, from Badger is somewhat puzzling. Airburshes themselves aside, I've found them to be bar none the most responsive and accommodating company out there, period. That said....
I was a long time Badger fan (still am). Have a bunch of their guns, one of which I do use quite regularly, and I think the 105 is about the best "first airbrush" anyone can get for the price, but after winning an H&S Evolution a couple years ago (prize for Best-in-Show), I have to admit that I now see where Badger needs to improve a little.
H&S's plating is much better and the body is through-plated (at the front at least). This is actually more important that you might think. Beside being easier to clean, the plating protects the underlying metal (somewhat) from solvents. After inadvertently leaving some cleaner in a couple of my guns for an extended period, the Badger's paint chamber eroded down to the brass. The H&S: still looks like new. (This was abuse on my part of course).
H&S's teflon paint tip seal is far more forgiving that Badger's tapered seat. Get the tiniest bit of anything in there, or get carried away with a pipe cleaner, and you will never again get a good seat (not without resorting to bees wax). With H&S, the worst thing that can happen is you need a new seal (to the tune of <$2 each).
If you have ever had to replace a needle bearing (which I grant 99% of you should NEVER have to do) its much easier in the H&S.
And while this is anecdotal on my part, H&S's tips and needles seem to hold up better. Granted they are 2-3 times the price of the Badger spares though.
About the one and only thing I don't like about the H&S is the aperture to the paint chamber. Its small. No, TINY. Even if you take the cup off for cleaning (which I don't recommend as you then have to make sure you clean the threads and seal), its still impossible to "dig" in there with a pain brush and cleaner the way you can with most other guns.
All in all, of my half dozen airbrushes I consider the H&S "the best". I just wish they sold the Evolution Solo with either the .2/2ml OR .4/5ml. I don't like swapping fitting and would rather have two guns but the only way to do that is buy a Duo AND a solo....and end up with about $80 worth of redundant parts.
Something to be aware of with the H&S: it is FAR more frugal with air. Thats a good thing, except if you have a tankless compressor: They use so little air that even with the trigger held down a tankless will want to start/stop constantly which is bound to cause undue wear and tear over time.
Dude, your hired! When can you start posting to the blog?
So looking at an evolution silverline, does the solvent safe material mean that i can soak it in acetone instead of iso?
Thanks guys
I've been told that soaking the brush is bad no matter what, even if it's just water. Soaking needles, nozzles etc. is fine, but the body itself shouldn't be soaked as it can adversely affect the seals.
Of course, this is just hearsay and I'm sure many have no problem soaking their brushes. You could probably soak it in acetone, but I'd just be a bit wary and double check before I'd do something like that. The main purpose of the solvent safe materials in the Silverline is for running solvents through the brush, not soaking it.
I soak my hp-cs in pure iso, but i remove all the seals so it is just metal, I'd hate myself of i ruined a brush by being lazy and trying to clean it easily
vundere wrote: Of course, this is just hearsay and I'm sure many have no problem soaking their brushes.
Please see my previous post. Yes many soak overnight/use ultrasonic baths, etc. and have no issue doing so but there DOES exist combinations of A) product and B) length of time which WILL have an adverse effect on a gun, at very least cosmetic, possibly functional. IE, use a harsh enough chemical for long enough and at some point things are going to go sour.
@kb_lock, while we've all run into, um, "accidents", the fact is we should never let an airbrush get to where it needs soaking in anything. The SilverLine is nice, but despite the name its not silver plated. Its the same nickle plating as the regular Evolution. Only real difference is that middle section which is plated like the rest of gun versus the (I believe) anodized gold one on the regular Evolution with its exposed Vitton rings (which I suppose are for grip). Silverline also has a limiter on the rear end. In my estimation its intended as a more resilient gun, but not one which comes with a license to abuse if you know what I mean.
This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2016/01/25 20:56:10
I soaked my Badger Krome overnight in simple green once when I had loaded it up with red ink and then had to go out on a fire call. The soaking helped but the resultant complete strip down (like everything....), lube and reclean was a massive pain.
Do a good job of getting all the paint out of the cup, off the nozzle needle etc and you should be fine.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
kb_lock wrote: Now that is something i should research - how to clean my airbrush properly
Oh and here you go.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/25 21:56:06
I strip down completely and soak in iso almost every time, then reassemble and relube each time. It's a pain - belting through some acetone is really appealing.
I love magic bullet solutions
Automatically Appended Next Post: Can you show me how thin these test lines were?
You're almost convincing me to get the infinity when i was sure i wanted an evolution
Also, retrospective proofreading;
"This is fantastic as you can put the cap on a piece of paper or over a stencil and be able to pretty much draw a **strait**, even line!"
Wrong straight.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/25 23:57:37
kb_lock wrote: I strip down completely and soak in iso almost every time, then reassemble and relube each time. It's a pain - belting through some acetone is really appealing.
I love magic bullet solutions
Automatically Appended Next Post: Can you show me how thin these test lines were?
You're almost convincing me to get the infinity when i was sure i wanted an evolution
Also, retrospective proofreading;
"This is fantastic as you can put the cap on a piece of paper or over a stencil and be able to pretty much draw a **strait**, even line!"
The SilverLine is nice, but despite the name its not silver plated. Its the same nickle plating as the regular Evolution. Only real difference is that middle section which is plated like the rest of gun versus the (I believe) anodized gold one on the regular Evolution with its exposed Vitton rings (which I suppose are for grip). Silverline also has a limiter on the rear end. In my estimation its intended as a more resilient gun, but not one which comes with a license to abuse if you know what I mean.
