Umm, I guess look up tutorials online. Figure out what sort of airbrush you have, figure out how to disassemble it, clean it and reassemble it before you start putting paint in to it
Beyond that it's hard to give advice without knowing what sort of airbrush it is. Is it single action or double action? Gravity feed or siphon? It could be a broad pattern brush designed for basecoats, it could be a fine detail brush designed for super fine lines, it could be an all rounder (which is typically what we recommend for painting miniatures).
In general, spend some time on blank pieces of plastic just learning how to do paint nice consistent lines without splatter or runs, how to paint dots, learn some basic airbrush control. Then start thinking about the techniques you want to use to paint actual models.
Look up video tutorials and whatnot and you'll start to get an idea. Lots of stuff on youtube, start practising and then come back with some more specific questions.
eosgreen wrote:i thought the best way to go about this with an airbrush was to actually prime white or black and then "pre-shade" with the other color.
this simulates the lighting and creates natural shading for the following part which is to lightly (the
imo reason airbrush is so great) paint the primary color. if its transparent enough then the area primed black with be darker and the white spots will be lighter. from here it would just need edge highlights and things you cant do with an airbrush
im fairly positive this is how "pro painters" also do this as it is both effective but fast
Depends on the model. I prefer just laying down a solid opaque coat of my base colour and then adding shading and highlighting and then if it's too much, spray a light coat of the original colour to tone down the effect a bit.
I prefer doing it that way because I think it gives a cleaner look (which I can dirty up later if I want). Also on models with a lot of varying geometry preshading can be tricky because sometimes to get sufficient coverage in the nooks and crannies you end up making the paint in other areas too opaque.
Preshading works really well on aircraft and tanks where you have large flat surfaces and your "highlights" aren't so much highlights as paint fade and your "shades" aren't so much shades as they are panel line weathering. It's also typically used far more subtly on aircraft as a precursor to lot of other weathering (at least when the "pro painters" do it).
Sometimes I preshade models for the express purpose of covering it entirely because it acts as a guide to know how opaque the colour I'm laying on top is. When I can't see the preshade, I know I've got an opaque coat
Lots of varying techniques you can use though. Preshading might be a good one, might not be.