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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Iowa city, Iowa.

I seem to have a problem with spraypainting/priming. I've tried many ways (tweezers, my fingers with gloves, pliers, just spraying them on cardboard) but they always require multiple 'touch ups' with missing spots or blotches, where the thing starts to drip, and I get spraypaint ALL OVER my hands. I was wondering if anybody had better ways to prime your models with the spraypaint (I use Army painter black)

It may also have to do with my 'workshop' which is a bunch of cardboard on the ground in my garage. 5 minutes ago I was out there in my undershirt and boxers at 10:42 PM while it was cold as all hell, and it mostly started DRIPPING which bothered me a ton. I'm just hoping to find better ways to prime my minis without having them be blotchy/drippy and getting tons of primer on my fingers.

37th combined regiment

452nd Mechanized Steel legion

41st steel legion armored regiment

trades: Krug001 (great) 
   
Made in us
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine






For infantry: A yardstick and painters (blue) tape. Tape the models to the stick (roll the tape over so it is sticky all around and you're taping the bottom of the base to the stick). Keep some space clear on one end, and toss on gloves if you'd like. Spray while on the stick. It allows you to move the models a bit as well for better coverage.

Individual parts: Attach to a toothpick. Get foam plates or something similar. Stick the toothpicks into said plates. Alternatively, tape the toothpicks to the yard stick and spray there.

Vehicles (if assembled): I spray one side, wait for it to try a bit, rotate, repeat until you have all sides hit.

You may have a few missed spots, but when I say 'missed' I mean they have a bit less paint than other spots but still plenty to be effective(especially as those spots are going to be where you can't really touch the model even if you try).

Lastly, if they're getting drippy you're putting WAY to much primer onto them. You're going for a single light coating to avoid obscuring detail. Make sure to check the distance you're spraying at.

Hope that all helps somewhat.

4500
 
   
Made in us
Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought





Boston, MA

There's no really easy way, but I use a squared 1x1 stick from the hardware store and put double sided tape on it. Then I can paint and rotate.

It's not good for heavy models though, they seem to fall off just when the paint is really wet and mess up your models.

Wear latex gloves. But remember for priming with aerosol you only need a dusting, it doesn't have to be 100% visible even. And always do little bits at a time waiting for the first coat to dry before doing another so it doesn't get thick or runny,


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Wow ninja'd.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/04/07 04:18:59


Please check out my photo blog: http://atticwars40k.blogspot.com/ 
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman




Shanghai, China

Stick them up with tape or blue tack. Wear gloves. Do it outside. Small bursts while going sideways in a decent distance so you just slowly dust the paint on, it should never look wet. Cover all angles, start with bottom and difficult angels since the easy angles are 95% going to get covered while doing that.


   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Iowa city, Iowa.

But what if the model does have some gray on it?

I felt like covering the entire thing with black was supposed to be how it's done, I guess I have been spraying it way too much though.

EDIT

Some pictures of the models

Spoiler because they're too fecking big
Spoiler:





This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2016/04/07 04:38:15


37th combined regiment

452nd Mechanized Steel legion

41st steel legion armored regiment

trades: Krug001 (great) 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





i can see odd bubbles in the creases usually from overspraying or the paint drys a tad and then gets hit with a new coat.

dont worry if its not all covered but as was said, spray the hardest areas first as it will hit the easier ones naturally

My trader feedback on other websites

http://www.overclock.net/u/193949/eosgreen
http://www.ebay.com/usr/questionmarks
 
   
Made in gb
Disbeliever of the Greater Good





When you spray try and get a thin piece of button Wood to tape bases to ,that way you can get better angles from below as well , thin layers are the key or you can loss the detail if you try with one spray .
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I usually blutack my models to whatever is convenient. Usually a sprue or something. I do occasionally just put on a glove and hold it by the base when I'm feeling lazy.

Light coats from many angles is important. Avoid spraying with the nozzle pointing directly at the model, start spraying aiming to one side of the model, sweep across, stop spraying. The faster you move, the lighter the coat will be. Apply the spray from lots of directions. I usually do 3 angles from above and 3 angles from below, but it's going to depend on the model.

Try and only spray once from each direction, if you need to spray a 2nd layer you have 2 options, do it immediately while it is still good and wet, but you have to evaluate if that's going to result in too thick of a coat, or wait until the flash time specified on the can. If you spray in the time in between you're far more likely to have issues because the under layer will be partially dry but still releasing solvents that will cause the next layer to bubble or grain up.
   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

If you are spraying to much the model starts dripping your coats are way to heavy. Army painter does seem to go on thick.

Go to you local hardware store and grab some wooden paint stirrers and masking tape. The stirrers are free.

Tape the base of the model to the paint stick and boom much easier to paint.

Use latex or plastic gloves to protect hands.

if its a big model or has multiple pieces and the stirrer won't work, use wire and make a hook. attached it to a piece of the model, spray and hang dry.

 
   
Made in gb
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine





United Kingdom

i have a big rectangle of cardboard (formally part of an amazon box and blu tac anything to be sprayed to that. Then I take it outside and spray, plastic bag over my hand and forearm to avoid getting any primer on me while I hold the cardboard.

Make sure your conditions are right. Serious cold, humidity or dampness in the air is NOT conducive to priming.

You can buy brush on primer for when you miss bits (or notice a mould line post-priming and need to touch up the area once you've scraped the damned thing off. grr.)

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




Go to Home Depot and get a paint stirring stick or three. They are free.

Use blue tac to hold the model on the stick. I only prime up to three at a time.

Warm up your primer can in some hot water in a bowl.

Spray a few mists away from the models to make sure the nozzle isn't clogged.

Hold the stick by the handle and either move the stick around on a static spray stream or move the can around a static stick. In either case don't spray in one spot continuously. Move something around all the time.

The model does not need to be completely covered in the primer. If some ares are speckled with paint it's okay.
   
 
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