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Hello guys,

I'm having a few problems removing parts of a few models from their sprues. I've been using citadel tools such as clippers, mould line remover etc.. however I find the way some of the parts are cast onto the sprue it makes it really hard to remove them and clear up excess sprue without damaging the model itself, even being very gentle and careful I find sometimes I get ever so slight damage to the model, for me this really kills my enjoyment for the hobby and I was hoping you guys might have shared the experience and possible have any tips ?

thanks

What is the model in question that you're struggling to cut the parts out for?

Something you can try is cutting the sprue itself with your clippers so that you can reach certain parts on it more easily with said clippers. You can also use a set of files (if you aren't already) to gently rub off any excess sprue that you cut off.

Hope this helps; if you can provide me with some specifics it may help to provide some more detailed advice

Also welcome to DakkaDakka!

G.A

For difficult and jam packed sprues i usually cut the sprue it self and not the parts out.

If needed i use a flat chisels blade for the exacto and cut them out safer.

and instead of using a scraper tool like GW has, i use the exacto to cut off simple flat pieces and clean it off by scraping with the back of the exacto

or otherwise for complicated bits, i use various sanding sticks and needle files.

Its been various models, recently a part on the Ghostkeel leg the armour plate , I had like you said removed the parts of the sprue with the part to remove them separately, but found the even when being very gentle removing the excess sprue I still slightly damaged the model creating a slight gauge into a surface that should be smooth, even though its only very minor damage for me this really kills my want to continue with building the model. another model in particular is the necron warrior's faces they're attached either side of the what I'd refer to as jawline which is at a slight curve and removing each side on each head keeping them looking consistently looking the exact same I find almost impossible, causing me to put down my necron army ( why can't they attatch them like on the immortal sprues ? )

I have used the files but found the textured surface of them wore down very quickly even after moderate use ?

Thank you for the advice and the welcome !

umm those files shouldnt really be getting worn out from working on plastics.. if anything they can get fouled at which point you just need to take a wire brush of some sort and clean it off.

as for the gouging, dont use the flush cutter to actually cut right on the model
cut right next to it so it leaves a nub

then cut that off with an exacto or file it down with a sanding stick however you want.

you shouldnt have gouges then.

but otherwise it might not be 100% possible on all kits.

especially new ones that are super jam packed.

That was what I thought too, and I'm really not a man that's heavy with his hands, I might take them down to my local GW and see if they can offer any advice

Thanks for the tip with the gouges, sometimes I find thin flat areas about a millimetre wide its hard to remove the nub off, I'm a real perfectionist and I think that might be part of the reason why I'm so bothered with even slight damage.

Basically what Desubot said - I'd only add that the files may not actually be wearing down, instead the plastic residue may be getting stuck inbetween the tiny raised areas that make the textured surface, meaning the file can't rub away the plastic properly; you'll see this as a kind of white dusty effect on the surface of the file. Best way to solve it is to wash the file or drag it across something course - I wear jeans when I'm modelling and just rub them along my thighs when this happens

Sometimes when damage is done, a little liquid green stuff can solve the problem too, or you can even incorporate it into the model as battle damage, painting scratches across them to mask them

Chill man, no one will notice. All sorts of flaws that you may think stand out like blazing beacons of imperfection will never be noticed. Really, these things are meant to be viewed on the table or even in the hand at a distance of a foot or more.

Trust me, you paint those necrons up real nice and put them on the table at your local shop and no one will care one bit that your necrons don't have perfect jawlines. (Now if they try to get modeling jobs they may have problems, but a necron warrior has as much curves as a fashion model, so who know, they might have a chance.)

That does sound like what is happening, I hadn't thought of that, I'll be sure to see if I can clean them up thank you!

I appreciate the help from both of you ! hopefully using the tips I can continue without damaging more models!

No worries - let us know how you get on

Have fun on the rest of the forums!

G.A

Everyone else has already said what needed to be said about proper clipping but I would like to add something:

If you do make a mistake and find it noticable, you can always carve into it further to turn it into battle damage. Generally cut a long V-shaped wedge out of the armor that covers up most of the imperfection and it should look like intentionally-made battle damage. Hard materials used for armor either dents or sheers like that, so it'll be able to hide it pretty well.

I use dollar store nail clippers, never cut anything I didnt want or broke any parts.

Nail clippers definitely work, in a pinch. I use actual flush cutters (cheap ones, but a little time with the diamond paddles cleaned them up), now that I have them, because the shape of the head makes for easier access. Still, I started with simple nail clippers and a hobby knife, which served me for years.

When you clip it with diagonal cutters, give yourself about 2-3mm to work with (don't cut right up to the model). Also, where it's fragile, cut the smallest, thinnest bits first, and finish with the largest connections.

Once it's off, use the clippers again to cut closer (about 1mm), and then finish with a knife, file, sandpaper, emery board, etc. Then, sometimes, use a gap filler/putty to correct.

I've taken to de-spruing with Xuron cutters, and doing the final cut with the GW cutters. Though it's probably all in my mind; they're both good cutters, and I'm sure I could make it work just using either for that part of the job

Talys nails it. It's better to cut off less than too much. The flush side of the cutters is going to work really well as long as they're still in mediocre shape. You can fill and file if anything needs a lot of work after that.

I use some old sprue cutters. Like many have said, leave a chunk on and work it off after getting the piece out of the frame. Those small plastic sanding sticks with the replaceable belts work well, and if you use the 400 and 600 grits, it doesn't show through the paint. I often use a razor saw, but be careful that the teeth don't nick up the plastic on the part itself. For some parts, I lay a piece of masking tape on the part before sawing off the remains of the sprue. The razor saw is good when working fragile parts, as an Xacto might cause enough stress to deform the plastic. Sometimes, I just go back with the sprue cutters, or a good pair of mini diagonal nippers. Once the part is out of the frame, you can often get the flat side of the cutters really flush with the part and get a clean cut. It's almost impossible to do this with some parts while they are still in the frame, due to clearance issues.

I just do what other people have said, use clippers and clip a decent distance away from the part, cut up the sprue if necessary. Once the part is free of the sprue cut a bit closer to the model with clippers but remove the final bit with a sharp knife or sand paper/sanding sticks. Even then sometimes there's no avoiding having to fill some divots.

I bought some expensive clippers and was mostly disappointed because even though it gives a cleaner cut, all it meant was instead of clipping the model 1mm away I can now clip 0.75mm away I still can't clip up against the model without risking damage.