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Does anyone know where I can get more of this? Or something close?



Its a paint that I've had for years but only just started to use it for my 30k thousand sons and its getting rather low.

Army Painter should have a red quickshade that may do the same job.

Citadel's Carroburg Crimson should do the trick; those Inks are extremely old, and you'll be hard pressed finding a pot of it - I would switch out to something more modern and still in production before you go too far into your collection to notice a difference when you're forced to switch out

G.A

 General Annoyance wrote:
Citadel's Carroburg Crimson should do the trick; those Inks are extremely old, and you'll be hard pressed finding a pot of it - I would switch out to something more modern and still in production before you go too far into your collection to notice a difference when you're forced to switch out

G.A

Sadly I already have a lot painted. The new gw wash pools too much and dosnt seem to have such a rich pigment which leaves a pink colour.

I was thinking of trying Tamiya clear red

GW does not currently offer anything even remotely close to the old Ink's.

The closest thing to the old Red Ink that I'm aware of is Tamiya's X-27 Clear Red.

[Edit]
Minitair's Ghost Tint : Fresh Blood might do it too, but I have no experience with it.

Citadel's Carroburg Crimson should do the trick;

CC has a much more wine-ish hue to it though. I recall that old red wash and it was very red. Not sure CC would cut it.

I only have experience with Carroburg Crimson; while it will have a more lighter tint to it when it's applied, I reckoned that wouldn't be much of an issue if you're painting 30k Thousand Sons

Sounds like Tamiya Clear Red might be the way to go then

Definatly NOT carboug crimson (i've got and use both) its way to dark and dull compared to the old red ink. The inks are more like heavy pigment glazes than the shades that are now sold. Unfortunatly i dont know of any replacement, others may help.

Check Army Painter and Vallejo lines - though it may take you a few pots to find something similar.

P3 Red Ink does the job
MIke McVey designed the line, just like he did that era of GW paints and inks...
it is much easier to work with than Tamiya Clear Red, less stinky, and much more of a true ink...
he uses TCR for blood effects, and P3 Red Ink for glazing...
it comes in a nice big bottle, too, so you will get years of use out of it...

cheers
jah
.

Does GW make a red glaze? I’m not as familiar with their range as I used to be. Probably because they shuffle it every other month.

But I had a similar problem. I used a pot of “Blue Ink” from the same era for my Ultras. The “Drakenhoff Nightshade" shade was duller and darker then the rich, slightly glossy sapphire shade I knew and loved. The "Guilliman Blue” glaze, while not quite 100%, was a lot closer to my old stuff.

Edit:
Looking at their site there is a red glaze “Bloodletter” It’s hard to do color matching via the web, but it might be worth a shot.

Another option, and I’m not sure when they switched manufacturers, would be to look up the old Cote D’arms stuff. They made GW’s paints for them back in the day, and are still produced.

Coat D'Arms do have a Red Ink Wash

http://www.blackhat.co.uk/product/137-ink-wash-red/

lovely paints...

cheers
jah

try:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Daler-Rowney-29-5ml-Acrylic-Crimson/dp/B004O7FY8I/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1478206319&sr=8-14&keywords=daler+rowney+red+ink

Use the Spiritstone Red Technical Paint. I did not give this stuff enough credit at first. Do a few thin Coats over a bright Silver and then wash it down with Nulun Oil.

Works great.


EDIT

The Left Leg on this guy was done over Leadbelcher with Spiritstone Red. This is before washing and highlighting.

Scalecolor have a Red ink in their range, as does P3.

They would be your best bets, outside of picking up a proper artistry ink.

Mr.Church13 wrote:
Use the Spiritstone Red Technical Paint. I did not give this stuff enough credit at first. Do a few thin Coats over a bright Silver and then wash it down with Nulun Oil.

Works great.


EDIT

The Left Leg on this guy was done over Leadbelcher with Spiritstone Red. This is before washing and highlighting.

That looks good, how glossy is the finish?

I am liking how the old ink has a bit of a candy apple red feel to it.

I am guessing that the original picture is of an old GW ink, but I can't see the picture.

Coat d Arms apparently make the exact same colours as GW's old range, but I haven't tested any, they aren't that easy to find over here.

Vallejo inks are true inks like GW's old range, but they aren't as glossy. If you paint them over a glossy metallic you may get the effect you're after though.

Tamiya's clears are nice but they're much thicker than the old ink range, but they provide a similar depth of colour and give a more vibrant than many other options. Tamiya Clear Red airbrushed over silver is how Forge World paint their Thousand Sons...



I have tried GW's Gemstone Blue and I didn't find it anywhere near as good as Tamiya's clears, so I didn't bother buying the red.

The old red ink does provide a look very similar to the FW sons.

I do boltgun metal, chain mail and mitheril silver then the ink brushed on.

Ordered some P3 if that dosnt work it'll be tamiya and coat d arms next

It's not as glossy as you'd think it was. Plus the black wash takes it down a bit and I figure once it's matte varnished it'll lose more gloss.

BTW Forge world do not use Tamyia red in their thousand sons. They use the Angron red from the airbrush range which made a great glaze over my version of the red which started a bit bright for my taste.

Mr.Church13 wrote:
It's not as glossy as you'd think it was. Plus the black wash takes it down a bit and I figure once it's matte varnished it'll lose more gloss.

BTW Forge world do not use Tamyia red in their thousand sons. They use the Angron red from the airbrush range which made a great glaze over my version of the red which started a bit bright for my taste.

I didn't think Angron Red existed when FW painted most of their Thousand Sons range. I guess the newer stuff is likely done with their own paints, but in the olden days FW used to use Tamiya clears, I'm sure I read a thread somewhere where someone had emailed FW to ask them and they said they used Tamiya.

EDIT: Maybe it is Angron Red, I'm finding lots of references to Tamiya clears for other things (like Alpha Legion) but not so much for Thousand Sons. Angron Red is apparently thinner and slightly more orange than the Tamiya clears.

It's directly in a tutorial they posted to Facebook for tzican ruby. I don't know what they use for the others, but I tried to replicate that color with Tamyia clear red and it's waaaaaay to bright like old blood angels red orangey red.

I've tried Tamiya clear red airbrushed over a metallic base and it gave me results very similar to the FW 1k sons. I guess it depends what you want your models to look like. These are some tests I did when I was considering starting a 1k sons army (never did though).

Being a "clear" it makes a huge difference what you paint under it and it pays to do a bit of shading (either pre or post) with a complimentary colour (like green or maybe blue). It also makes a big difference how thickly you apply it.

The thing I like about Tamiya clears is they do have some decent thickness to them, I don't know whether FW clears are the same. It gives that really nice candy effect where the colours shift as you rotate the model around where areas that you view squarely appear lighter than areas that are viewed at an angle (because you're basically looking through more paint when you view it at an angle). The Saurus for example has no shading, and while I think it'd look a bit better with some shading, you can see how it almost has a dark outline to it on the surfaces that are being viewed at a sharp angle.

Daston wrote:
The old red ink does provide a look very similar to the FW sons.

I do boltgun metal, chain mail and mitheril silver then the ink brushed on.

Ordered some P3 if that dosnt work it'll be tamiya and coat d arms next

i think you will be happy with the P3 Red Ink...
i love using it
you can cut it as much as you want (1 drop ink to 15 drops water) for very subtle glazes, or straight for tints...

i get a lot of use out of the turquoise and green inks, too...
i have the rest of the colors, as well, yellow, brown, and blue, but have not had anything i wanted to try them out on yet...
the Flesh Wash and Armor Wash are my go-to Washes for shading metals...

good luck

cheers
jah

Is P3 ink glossy like the old GW inks? In general I don't love P3 paints because the one sI have don't really suit my painting style, but I haven't tried any of their inks.

I've been trying to find a replacement for my old GW brown ink, but it needs to be glossy.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Is P3 ink glossy like the old GW inks? In general I don't love P3 paints because the one sI have don't really suit my painting style, but I haven't tried any of their inks.

I've been trying to find a replacement for my old GW brown ink, but it needs to be glossy.

Just add a drop of future to it to make it more glossy.

So does that mean, no, P3 inks aren't glossy?

Yeah but it'll also thin it which I don't want to do, and if there's a lot of matting agent in the ink it might take a bit of gloss varnish before the end result is glossy.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
So does that mean, no, P3 inks aren't glossy?

Yeah but it'll also thin it which I don't want to do, and if there's a lot of matting agent in the ink it might take a bit of gloss varnish before the end result is glossy.

i would not say that they are glossy, no...
they are not as matte as GW washes, nor as glossy as P3 washes, but more in the middle of those two extremes...
i have not noticed any matting agent in the ink, and they don't have the habit of going white that GW washes have...
they act like an Artist's Ink...
the colors of the inks are very dense before thinning, so a drop of Future, or gloss varnish, will not really dilute the intensity of the color...

cheers
jah

Cool thanks. I kind of rely on the high density of the Brown Ink in my Tyranids so I don't really want to thin it, the high density and glossiness is what gives it the effect I like.

i just noticed that i didn't complete my sentence...
the GW Washes go white if you thin them with water, like matte spray varnish does in humidity...
P3 Ink does not...

i have to cut the 1 drop of ink with at least 5 drops of water before i notice a reduction in color density, and usually use 10 drops of water to make glazes...
neat, it has strong tinting effect over my early highlights...

cheers
jah