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In light of the most recent terrain competition I thought I'd ask some questions so my project can go as smoothly as possible. Specifically with cardboard, what do I need to do to reinforce it to take paint, texture, and hold models without bending or warping. Both with thin board like a GW box and with moving box board. Secondly how can I support foam core so that the edges dont ware quickly or the foam won't snap as easily. Thanks for the advice guys I can't wait to get started.

If you have corrugated card a good trick is to use two layers with the corrugation in one layer aligned at a 90 degree angle to the second layer. This gives much strength.

For thin card I've found it is good to create internal structure, such as spirals, brackets, etc in order to give the exterior strength.

The first one is easy enough - don't use cardboard. Use plasticard or something else that has actual material strength to it and isn't so moisture/handling sensitive.

Give the foam a thin coat of PVA glue before painting to make it a little more durable. Also get something like hardboard to use as the base.

Fanstastic thanks for the advice, Im specifically worried about a section of floor I want to make cracked marble with, if I use carboard I'm guessing it wont hold up then so I'll go with something else. If I use carboard for some detailing but reinforce it with plasticard would that add enough integrity with small pieces? For example the inner structure of a stained glass cathedral window, designed with cardboard and reinforced to keep it's integrity.

There are several tricks you can use for painting cardstock and cardboard to minimize warping. The previously mentioned tip of alternating corrugated cardboard layers by 90 degrees does work, and is a good one. Several layers of cardboard can be glued together so that the piece holds its shape. Depending on the thickness of the card, 3-5 layers of card will make for a very rigid piece of material. Apply a thin layer of PVA between each layer, then lay a heavy book/weight on top to compress the piece. Let it dry overnight.

Preparing to paint is tricky. One option is to seal it first with your favorite acrylic spray sealer, and then prime and paint. Another option is permeating the cardboard with a thin layer of PVA, or even cheap superglue, then prime and paint. You could also apply several layers of dry brushing (emphasis on dry) as an undercoat, then paint as normal. You will not want to use water-based washes with cardstock pieces, or be very stingy. The chance of water finding its way into a crack or between layers is always there, and will result in warping. Once painted, seal as normal with varnish, matte or gloss to taste.

Good luck in the terrain comp!

A couple things to keep in mind:

- Sealing the cardboard first with a dryer paint / sealer (not water based) is the first step.
- Paint both sides of the cardboard: if you do only one side, the painted side tends to curl up.
Sometimes I have tapped-in some long thin wood skewers in the corrugation for strength (across the core).

I tend to use "hardboard" for basing terrain but it too has some sensitivity to moisture so I have to seal it pretty much the same.

Polystyrene plastic sheet I would list as the ideal since you can glue/weld directly on it with a great bond and it is waterproof.
The trick is finding an industrial supply of the sheet rather than pay top dollar at the FLGS.

This advice has been amazing thanks guys. My last question is
Where do I get "blue foam" im looking for foam core that's like the pink stuff you get at home depot but I cant find it thinner than like 1.5". Ive seen blue stuff thats 3/4 or so but cant find it, any suggestions?

Try Lowes. I think they have the blue insulation foam that you're after.

The Blue board is called:

"DOW™ PROTECTION BOARD III is an extruded polystyrene foam insulation with plastic film on one side."
1/4" thick.
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_095c/0901b8038095c23e.pdf?filepath=styrofoam/pdfs/noreg/179-04419.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc


I think I would want to see how strong/rigid the material is before using it as a base.
I am curious if model glue could bond to it... I think it should but since it may be a foam it may break down too much.
I will look for it, it may be a better alternative to foam-board.

You can also find it in pink. Depending on where you live in the U.S. you may struggle to find sheets of certain thickness. For instance in the South it's very difficult to find a Lowes/Home Depot which stocks the big 2" thick stuff you can find up North (with good reason --- people don't need that much down here!).

Remember the remove the plastic film before working with it.

Another tip...if you're just trying to get terrain on the table, do it quick and dirty. Cardboard is fine. If, however, you want to create long-lasting terrain --- take more time on finding the right materials.

You can make some great simple urban terrain from foam, cardboard, some straws and dusting it all with a mix of grey/brown/black spray paint. Won't win you any competitions but you can do an entire table in a couple hours this way.