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I recently bought a pot of Liquid Greenstuff. When I opened it it seemed too dry to be called "liquid".
I would say the consistency is a bit dryer than Ryza Rust.

Did I buy a bad pot or should it be like that?

No, that's pretty normal. Remember, it's used for gap-filling. If it was the same consistency as paint, it would fill gaps about as well as paint does - not at all.

Of course, but I can't even get it to stick to my brush

Then you can thin it with water. Not sure about using acrylic medium; I haven't tried it myself.

 dakkamakka wrote:
Of course, but I can't even get it to stick to my brush

Yeah that's too thick. It should be only slightly thicker than paint.

I found liquid greenstuff pretty useless myself. It shrinks too much as it dries so the gap just keeps reappearing. I just use regular greenstuff, milliput or Gunze Mr Surfacer as a filler (it comes in 500, 1000, 1200 and 1500, the lower numbers are better for gap filling and the higher numbers are better as primers).

I also use a variety of other fillers as well as LGS. I do prefer to use sand-able filler like Squadron for a better finish but LGS does have its uses, especially feathering edges as well as small gaps.

If the gap is too large and you only have LGS then you will want to fill the gap with something else to roughly close the gap (any DIY filler, or glue some plastic or plastic shavings mixed with poly cement) and them top off with LGS for a finish.

One of my LGS pots dried up, and wouldn't stick.
The other (and before the first dried) gets scooped out of the pot with a kiddies glue spatula I got from the hobby shop. A crafting/ modelling tool is used to scrape and move it around.

I am using a compination of greenstuff and humbrol poly filler. The filler is good as you can file / sand it down to an extremely smooth surface.

however I have just realised this is not what you asked so apologies

 notprop wrote:
I also use a variety of other fillers as well as LGS. I do prefer to use sand-able filler like Squadron for a better finish but LGS does have its uses, especially feathering edges as well as small gaps.

The Gunze Mr Surfacer I mentioned behaves like LGS (as in you "paint" it on to the gap) but it's better and is also sandable.

Here's a review/tutorial for it....




Just note none of my Mr Surfacer lids are stuck on like his, he must be careless when he was initially unscrewing them to make them get stuck like that Also I don't really see the point in applying 500 then 1000 then 1200 like he says in the video because the 1000+ range is better as a primer than a filler.

My LGS is thicker then paint but still thin enough that it requires more then one application to fill in gaps. As it settles it goes deeper into the gap leaving another, albeit smaller, gap on the surface. Kinda like plastering walls, some spots seem to suck the plaster into the wall requiring more.

It's those gaps that should be filled with something else before the LGS goes on to stop even thing LGS wicking into larger gaps or voids behind the gap.

To use your plastering analogy you would use expanding foam or plaster board to block up the hole, plaster is a finishing coat. Being air dried it will crack use thickly, similarly LGS will get lesser results used too think.

I have a pot of lgs that is more like a hard plasticene than any liquid, and it has been like this since I bought it. I still use it occasionally but it would be useless as a seam filler as it's too hard to work.

It's effectively a self levelling latex so should be runny enough to flow. If it's not then add water.

Just saw a YouTube video about this. The guy curses even more than a sailor. Thing is, he says that you are NOT suppose to use a paint brush and add water.

Remember those kits GW sells that are like sticks and picks, so use sculpting tools. Something like this, the tool in the middle.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Citadel-Sculpting-Tool-Set

The person says when you add water, it shrinks even more, so be careful. When you think you have filled the hole or seam, once dry, there can be a hole again but not as big.

Davor wrote:
Just saw a YouTube video about this. The guy curses even more than a sailor. Thing is, he says that you are NOT suppose to use a paint brush and add water.

Remember those kits GW sells that are like sticks and picks, so use sculpting tools. Something like this, the tool in the middle.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Citadel-Sculpting-Tool-Set

The person says when you add water, it shrinks even more, so be careful. When you think you have filled the hole or seam, once dry, there can be a hole again but not as big.

Yeah I'd say only add water when it's so thick it's unusable. The more liquid you add that has to evaporate off, the more shrinkage it'll have. The problem is the LGS comes in GW's crappy pop tops so it dries out and goes from liquid to paste to solid all without ever having left the pot.

The Gunze stuff comes in multiple flavours, with "500" being thicker than "1500", the "500" being a better filler which shrinks less while the "1500" is better as an airbrushable, sandable primer (the 500 is also sandable).

I'm not sure I agree with using the sticks and picks for LGS, the reason to use a brush is so you have better control over the thickness because it's usually better to apply 2-3 thin coats that dry reasonably quickly than one super thick coat that will shrink just as much but takes a long time to cure.

Regular greenstuff is an epoxy, so it cures evenly across the blob (in fact if the blob is large it'll tend to cure form the inside out), LGS is more like paint, it cures from the outside in, so a single large blob of it takes significantly longer to cure than multiple thin layers building up to the same amount would take.

But as I said, I think LGS is trash and haven't used it since my bottle went too thick to use and I couldn't be bothered salvaging it or buying a new bottle There are much better options on the market, from the Gunze stuff I mentioned to using watered down milliput.