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I keep waffling on how to paint my generic marines with something that is different. I like playing different codexes but at this point have literally over 10k points of primed black marines.

Was thinking about doing color change marines but wondered if anybody had experience with this type of paint on minis

https://www.amazon.com/Color-Change-Holographic-Paint-Aerosol/dp/B0015H1FG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485289717&sr=8-2&keywords=color+change+paint

looks like it would be pretty cool, do this some gun metal and black guns, red eyes, rose gold trim, blue/white power weapons, a ink wash and then done (also looking for easy to paint not spending to much time on each)

http://www.goldenpaints.com/products/colors/interference-colors Has some really amazing dichromatic(two-color "changing")/iridescent paints as well as phosphorescent ones as well the purple/green and green/Orange are incredible and look great for making nids look like actual beetles(only example I've seen em used on before) but I imagine would be interesting/different on spess mehreens.

those look awesome no tri color options it appears but worth checking out as it is not an enamel and instead a acrylic.

It's important to get the Fine paints in some of those categories, and go with the Heavy Body ones as the Fluid line are quite loose in their nature.

I understood those words, but not their meaning. I usually prime black with a rattle can, base coat via airbrush (what I want to do here) then quick mist from above in a white via airbrush for lighting effect. I am thinking I should do the lighting first in this case then the color change film paint over it.as they appear somewhat translucent. If you can just say which would be best for airbrushes I will take your word for it and just buy it

Alright, I have some of Golden's paints, and there's a few terms they use somewhat internally with some of the paints.

First, with the Interference colours, the iridescent colours, and some of the others, you'll see they have different flake sizes, from coarse to fine, this affects how the paint looks on the surface, with fine being the best for working on models.

Second, is they produce a few different Thicknesses of paints if you will. Heavy Body is the one that you put on the pallet and thin out a little to work with. Their Fluid line is quite smooth and liquid already in the bottle.

I see, so I like their blue/green. get the fine fluid for airbrush then?

and it looks transparent somewhat so am I thinking correct base black light mist from the top for highlighting then base coat with the golden interference green-blue

Yes, fine fluid would work best for an airbrush! I have a few of their colors on order namely the blue/green, green/orange, purple/green and the pearl mica flake(small). Possibly going to try out some of the fluorescent/phosphorescent colors too namely the fluorescent and phosphorescent greens, and the fluorescent blue.

ordered 1 ounce to test, will probably just brush a fw and report back, will be here Friday

Their interference paints, for example, are actually translucent yes, they only shine when the light hits angles of reflection in the flake.

I have some experience with goldens green orange interference paint. It is VERY transparent. Want a tri color effect? Paint the base color and then put it over top. Whatever color you use as the base will still be visible until you do like... 5 or 6 coats of the interference paint. Still then you will get hints of it.

I have tested it on black, brown, dark green, yellow, and red just to see what kind of effect it would have. Very interesting paint.

That's the great thing with these technical, interference, lumiescent and such paints, is yes the basic application is simple, but it really comes out when you start experimenting with them and playing around with them.

Lance845 wrote:I have some experience with goldens green orange interference paint. It is VERY transparent. Want a tri color effect? Paint the base color and then put it over top. Whatever color you use as the base will still be visible until you do like... 5 or 6 coats of the interference paint. Still then you will get hints of it.

I have tested it on black, brown, dark green, yellow, and red just to see what kind of effect it would have. Very interesting paint.

I'll give that a try, I like the way this appears in videos but maybe a dark red like a crimson underneath or gunmetal grey base with thte shimmer over it, will probably just paint up a handful of space marines base coated and then compare. That said the stuff looks good on black giving a color and shift in different light which could also be fun

Sauragnmon wrote:That's the great thing with these technical, interference, lumiescent and such paints, is yes the basic application is simple, but it really comes out when you start experimenting with them and playing around with them.

yea I get the feeling with my experimental models I will be doing 1 coat on one 2 and three coats on another to see how to get the look right.

OK, here are the results, slapped quick color base coat over primed black models, one left black plus grey, gunmetal, crimson, dark blue, and ultramarine blue.

here is a youtube video of the results


I liked the dark blue and crimson best here a few stills, but they do not give the color change justice

I have done some great two color flip candy paint jobs on model cars, these were all painted in enamel paint, this is really the only way to get real color change effects , acrylics just can't be made transparent enough, the best results came from the following technique:
Prime model (I usually prime black)
Start with a darker base coat of metal flake color
Do a light mist coat of a silver metal flake making sure that this layer does not cover much of the previous color, about 20% coverage at best. Make sure that the base color is still very much intact. (Basically you just want a mist of reflective metal flake to catch the light of the next color )
The next thing you will use is a lighter transparent color , I can't stress enough how important the transparent paint is. If you paint over the other colors with opaque paint the effects will be lost.
Now when the light is not hitting it you will see the base color . When the light reflects off the silver mist layer it will show as the lighter transparent color.
I may try to post a video in a few weeks, I'm moving into a new home so I can't at this moment. If you have question feel free to ask.

I would love to see ways to make it work better on the transition, though I am happy with the dark blue and red as is, but if you posted a video I would try your technique, just not sure exactly what you are meaning to do. I mostly have been just painting to tabletop so thinning paints, base coat, a few details in 2 colors and done. trying to make my space marine army a bit better to up y painting game. Any tips highly appreciated!