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I've seen Duncan use two different approaches to washing models. Firstly, in a Dark Vengeance video (and many others), after basing, he indiscriminately applies a shade/wash to an entire mini using a large brush and then paints over that with another layer of base paint, avoiding the recesses. I used this technique with my Dark Angels.

Secondly, in a Space Wolves video, he only applies a shade to the recesses, using a fine detail brush. He then doesn't need to re-apply a base paint, other than to tidy up any areas where he didn't mean to wash. I used this technique with my Space Wolves.

Now it seems to me that the second technique is better. It uses less paint (saving $$$) and I don't see the point of having an area that is base-wash-base rather than just base. The overall results appear similar.

Which is best? What do people generally do? I'm a little confused.

I use different washes on different parts of my models depending on what part of the model I am working on. Bone claws/teeth, agrax earthshade. Brown body stuff, nuln oil.

I don't repaint over top. I like the dirty look it gives to my nids.

Used to do liberal coat over everything keeping it deepest on recesses(so sorta like 1st way without repainting over). Now with Sons of Horus inspired by Duncan's video tried the 2nd one.

Bit more effort but the colour doesn't get stained by the ink. Which might or might not be for your taste(with organic the ink shading is IMO good. Maybe less so with armour).

Not sure why one would paint, wash, paint over though.

I use the second technique for the Space Wolves I am currently making.
It saves me time, because I will just have to edit with the base color where I overspilled wash rather than repeat the whole mini all over again.
But you can use both methods. The first method seems more appropriate for darker color schemes.

I think SDub explains this very well in this video and he seems to have excellent music taste too:

Thanks. Sounds like either approach is fine. I think I prefer the second technique so will proceed on that basis.

I don't have much advise as I still consider myself a novice with washes/shades. I haven't tried many techniques with them and have only used the three most common (black, earthshade and sepia) shades.

I prefer to cover the entire model with wash and then subtract it from the highlight areas sort or like dry brushing save my brush strokes are in the opposite direction (down to up) since the excess wash usually pools at the base of features. This is in addition to preventing too much wash from pooling in some of the recesses.

I do this as the selective application of wash as shown in the above video has to be applied more carefully (in my experience) or you can develop noticeable and unnatural looking boundaries between where the wash was applied and where it wasn't. I think selective application of wash works best of sections of the model but are going to use different shades of wash that will eventually cover the entire model. Otherwise, it can look a little off with one part of the model having a wash while another part doesn't.

If you want to thin a wash, don't use water as it often leaves a whitish residue as well as not completely stay in the recesses just as it completely dries (I think from diluting the surface tension surfactant).

Finally, some people like to apply a clear coat before they apply a wash and say it helps with washes flow. I haven't done much of this. I haven't noticed much of a difference, but I also haven't done it often enough for that to be conclusive.

For the most part I do base - layers - wash - dry.
For example ork skin I'll base Waaagh Flesh and layer on Warboss Green and Skarsnik Green. I the liberally wash Biel Tan all over the skin not only for it to fill in the recesses but I also like how it tones down the layers (which gets bright) and especially making the abrupt changes in layers more blended and gradual. I finish with Under hive Ash to get a lighting effect. No need for me to slather the whole model as I have different coloured washes for all the areas.

One wash that sees heavy use is my Agrax Earthshade but i tend to use something like the second method in the sense that I'm choosy where and how I apply it rather the slapping it all over. I use it in areas where mud and grime would collect the most.

Basically, it depends on what you're shading.

Cloth, organics or lots of fiddly detail - wash the whole model.

Flat, smooth surfaces like armor or machinery - paint wash in recesses.

A combination of the two can work as well. For example, if a Space Marine has a cloak, you wash the whole cloak while painting the recesses of the SM armor.

Not much in the way of flat surfaces with orks including their vehicles. Only the Nauts seem fresh out of the factory while everything else is very ram shackle and cobbled together from bitz and gubbinz. I agree that it would be a bad idea to wash over entire smooth panels.

Well shade applies the gradient easier than a ton of washes.
That is why I have read many painters recommend completing all your painting first, including touch-up.
Painting over shade can look strange (the transition is too abrupt).
I saw quite a few suggestions to apply a gloss coat first so the shade will wipe on correctly (smoother surface causes it to wick better) and it makes for easy clean-up if it does not pool/settle to your liking.
Rough surfaces I found I did not have to be careful, just wash the whole thing (like chainmail or fur trim).
Very thin edge highlighting can be carefully re-done I think.
I agree that large curved surfaces or flat have to be targeted at edges or irregularities: I have rarely seen smearing the whole surface turn out well (pointless really, since it is to settle in recesses).

I have also seen some people have had great success painting a model off-white / cream or a very light grey, zenithal highlight white and then wash the whole thing in the colour you want.
Reminds me a bit of how to approach water colouring.

There are many techniques, I look around until I find an approach that seems to make the most "sense" to me (failing that: experiments!!!).

I like to complete my painting and the wash colors are the second to the last step. Most often I will use different color washes depending on the color it is going over and the end effect I want. Usually, this means that the color in the end I want under a wash will appear darker, so the paint color I use will be a shade or two lighter.

Once the wash is applied, it will give an overall darker look to your color, but gives you those wonderfully easy shaded recesses. So, the last step for me is a quick drybrush highlight - this is the most critical step for me as it pops the raised areas of the mini. The drybrush highlight can be all one complimenting color, or you can split it up based on the color it is going over. The key here is subtlety - not too heavy. This will give you quick and outstanding results.

I have seen many great pieces done where many layers of colors are applied over and under washes to give a great shaded effect. I just do not take this much time and usually want my army painted to a nice table-top standard as quick as possible.

 Talizvar wrote:
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I have also seen some people have had great success painting a model off-white / cream or a very light grey, zenithal highlight white and then wash the whole thing in the colour you want.
Reminds me a bit of how to approach water colouring.

I have done this method with a group of GW Flagellants. The colors came out somewhat washed, so it was really a good effect for this sort of troop, but in most cases I want the colors to be a bit deeper, so I would test one mini before I did a whole group this way to see if you like it.