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HELP! Overwhelmed by paint brand options, need to pick one and get to work...  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Poll
If you could only use one paint line (excepting metallics and washes/inks)...?
Citadel
Reaper Master Series
Vallejo Model Color
Vallejo Game Color
Scale 75
Scale 75 - Fantasy & Games
P3

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Made in us
Commoragh-bound Peer



Washington, DC

Hello all,

I'm working my way through assembling 2500 points of Deathwatch and I'm about 2-3 weeks away from being ready to prime and start painting. I've been out of the hobby for years, so I need to reacquire all of my paints - and I am completely overwhelmed by all of the options. I've lost more hours than I care to count poring over forum posts, blog reviews, and video tutorials trying to figure out the "best" paint brand to start with and I am even more lost than when I started. I know that everyone has their preference, and most people use some colors from one line and some from another, but I'm looking to just pick one line and go with it for now to minimize how much I need to re-learn about thinning, consistency, how to layer well, etc.

So, putting aside metallics and washes/inks, the poll asks: If you could only pick one brand of paint to use for the next army-size project, which one would you chose? I'll be doing a standard base/wash/layer scheme, with some edge highlighting at the end.

And, in the comments, I'd be curious to know whether you'd go with the same brand for your metallics or whether you'd get those from a different brand (and if so, which one?). I've had trouble getting comments/feedback on previous posts with more specific questions, so I'm hoping that a more general post will get some replies - and help me stop waffling and make a decision I won't regret, so I can get these guys ready for the table and start getting stomped by the Eldar and Tau players who meet in my area.
   
Made in ca
Ancient Venerable Black Templar Dreadnought





Canada

I would agree with this article:
http://wargameguru.weebly.com/review-miniature-paints-101.html

This may be helpful for reference:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
http://www.pixelgod.net/massivevoodoo/metallic_color_comparison_chart.jpg (based on their article:here)
https://spikeybits.com/2013/01/the-next-big-thing-in-miniature-painting.html Nice article on Badger air paints.

Long story short: Vallejo has been the best overall for economical, large choice less fussy paint that is also has a bit more flow which puts it ahead of GW.

For larger works like terrain I dip into Liquitex medium body paints since they are a high end artists paint.

A revolution is an idea which has found its bayonets.
Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





I would class the Vallejo options together. Game Colour is just a range of their paints that replicate Citadel colours (or get close).

I predominantly use Vallejo because of the dropper bottles and the range of colours. Still can't find a good yellow though :(

   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

WobblyGoblin wrote:
I would class the Vallejo options together. Game Colour is just a range of their paints that replicate Citadel colours (or get close).

Model Color and Game Color have different formulas, with the exception of the Game Color Extra opaques which use the Model Color formula.

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in se
Pulsating Possessed Space Marine of Slaanesh




Poll: Vallejo Model Color is an safe choice. You cant go wrong. Pick it if you are unsure. I dont think i ever heard anybody be disappointed in them.

Comments: You can pick and choose which gold from which brand you like, it doesnt matter.
For example if you want to copy GW painting tutorials you could pick their paints. I myself use model color but i have a few others.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Beaumont, CA USA

I don't support limiting yourself to only a single brand of paint, and there is no "best" paint. BUT, if limiting yourself is what you're looking for, "best" option I'd actually recommend sticking to the Citadel range. It pretty much covers anything you're going to need to do to paint an army, and they've got a snazzy system figured out for base-coats, wash, highlight that turns painting essentially into paint-by-numbers which is great for new or returning painters. They have some decent tutorials up on youtube now, their washes are still pretty much the best around and all their technical paints add a lot of easy options for basing and other effects. They're nowhere near the value per bottle that the other lines are, and I personally hate paints that don't come in dropper bottles, but if you want to limit yourself to a single line just to get an army done I'd say that's the way to do it.

That said, I barely use any GW paints at all anymore, mostly Vallejo, but I use a lot of armypainter, Delta Ceramcoat, some reaper and PP and even artist acrylics, oil and enamel washes etc. You can get the same quality and better paint that citadel makes for less money, you just have to search around and experiment. Only do that if you love painting, for ease of entry, stick to Citadel

~Kalamadea (aka ember)
My image gallery 
   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





at the keyboard

Actually you don't necessarily want Reaper master series only - the regulars come in triads which is very handy

but to the point of your post:

buy what's available to you and you can afford.

Got a local GW or FLGS that sells paints? buy those - support your local FLGS always

Got a local hobby store or craft store? They may well carry at least some of the Vallejo colours (usually the ones for military models)

If you want a good deal online, Reaper gives a discount for sets, and comes with a handy dandy carrying case as well.

Warcolours (not on your list) is a good cheaper alternative, and doesn't need thinning, even really for airbrushing.

Anyway, before you dive into anything whole hog - I'd say try a few of each, if you're serious about building a paint collection. See which ones you like and go from there.

   
Made in ca
Fireknife Shas'el






I use paints from Vajello, Reaper and GW. If I had to choose just one, Vajello Model Color is tops. But I'm glad I don't have to choose just one paint line. Reaper HD series is great basecoating paint and the large wash bottles GW makes are great for painting washes straight from the bottle, while I find myself wasting a lot of wash using dropper bottles.

Note: You probably should add Army Painter to the poll, though their paint line isn't very large, their washes are popular.

   
Made in se
Fresh-Faced New User




Sweden

WobblyGoblin wrote:
I would class the Vallejo options together. Game Colour is just a range of their paints that replicate Citadel colours (or get close).

I predominantly use Vallejo because of the dropper bottles and the range of colours. Still can't find a good yellow though :(



Was about to order a large batch of Vallejo colors with few yellows in there.
Which ones would you recommend instead of Vallejos?

Also what is "wrong" with Vallejos? Bad pigmentation? Coverage? "Strange" colors?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 John Prins wrote:
I use paints from Vajello, Reaper and GW. If I had to choose just one, Vajello Model Color is tops. But I'm glad I don't have to choose just one paint line. Reaper HD series is great basecoating paint and the large wash bottles GW makes are great for painting washes straight from the bottle, while I find myself wasting a lot of wash using dropper bottles.

Note: You probably should add Army Painter to the poll, though their paint line isn't very large, their washes are popular.


Agree. Predominantly I use colors from Vallejo Game/Model (depending on the finish I am out after). I have few P3 ones, some Citadels, but when it comes to washes, I actually like making my own. I get most control that way.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/03/01 10:31:42


 
   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





I don't have problems with vallejo yellow, but I don't do yellow much. It's probably coverage issues--yellow tends to be iffy about coverage in general, especially when thinned, for all manufacturers
   
Made in us
Commoragh-bound Peer



Washington, DC

Thanks for the feedback, everyone!

I've grabbed a few colors (reds, black, gunmetal) from Citadel, Reaper, Vallejo, and P3 to mess around with them and see which I like - will be sure to update with my experience as someone who hasn't seriously touched a brush in more than a decade.
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





 wenturi wrote:
WobblyGoblin wrote:

I predominantly use Vallejo because of the dropper bottles and the range of colours. Still can't find a good yellow though :(



Was about to order a large batch of Vallejo colors with few yellows in there.
Which ones would you recommend instead of Vallejos?

Also what is "wrong" with Vallejos? Bad pigmentation? Coverage? "Strange" colors?


Maybe I wasn't clear - I can't find a good yellow from any manufacturer. Nothing against the Vallejo ones and I'm not saying they are bad at all. It's an inherent problem with yellow pigments. I use Vallejo Gold/en yellow a lot and it is a lovely colour but I get the best results from airbrushing it. I find that mixing some white 50:50 to put down a couple of basecoats and then topcoats of the Gold Yellow works ok for brushwork. It has as good coverage as any other yellow I have used.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Ghaz wrote:
WobblyGoblin wrote:
I would class the Vallejo options together. Game Colour is just a range of their paints that replicate Citadel colours (or get close).

Model Color and Game Color have different formulas, with the exception of the Game Color Extra opaques which use the Model Color formula.


That's interesting - I wasn't aware of that. Just done some searching and people were suggesting that Model Color is a little less hard-wearing as they are designed more for display than gaming.

The Extra Opaque or Heavy Vallejo paints are great. They have high pigment density and mimic the Citadel Base paints. The Heavy Red is something I use all the time as it's muted red colour and coverage (even when thinned) is excellent.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/03/01 15:31:13


 
   
Made in us
Mauleed




Pennsylvania

I use a combination of reaper master, Vallejo Game/Model, and Citadel. If I had to go with a solid favorite, it would be Vallejo Model based on my experiences with the above mentioned.

β€œTo be bitter is to attribute intent and personality to the formless, infinite, unchanging and unchangeable void. We drift on a chartless, resistless sea. Let us sing when we can, and forget the rest..”
― H.P. Lovecraft 
   
Made in us
Lieutenant General





Florence, KY

WobblyGoblin wrote:
That's interesting - I wasn't aware of that. Just done some searching and people were suggesting that Model Color is a little less hard-wearing as they are designed more for display than gaming.

The Extra Opaque or Heavy Vallejo paints are great. They have high pigment density and mimic the Citadel Base paints. The Heavy Red is something I use all the time as it's muted red colour and coverage (even when thinned) is excellent.

The difference between the two lines are explained in the Vallejo FAQ.

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Paints won't magically refuse to work together - just buy the colours you want as you see them. You'll learn which ones have good coverage or the tones you like etc. I personally buy 95% Vallejo but that's just because they make the style and colours I want. I'd gladly use any paint necessary.
   
Made in gb
Splattered With Acrylic Paint






I mostly used GW and Vallejo, but recently got the Minitaire range which are also excellent

   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




South Jersey

These are my suggestions:

GW does the best black (Addadon Black) and Red (Mephiston Red). Kantor Blue is also very good.

Vallejo Metallics are SUPERB.

Everything else is pretty even across the board.

As someone mentioned. Buy what you can get locally.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I like Citadel's "base" range (other than Ceramite White which is horrible), beyond the "base" range I mostly use Vallejo, either model colour or game colour. The game colour range tends to be more vibrant colours but with worse coverage while the model colour range tends to be duller colours with better coverage (that's a broad statement obviously, there's a mixture in both ranges, but when I'm looking for dull I start with model colour and when I'm looking for vibrant I start with game colour).

My main reason for choosing Vallejo is I hate Citadel's pots, availability (the closest hobby shop to me sells Vallejo, I can get others but have to buy online or drive further) and price (it's about $1 to 1.50 AUD cheaper per bottle for a larger volume of paint than citadel).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/03/03 18:45:38


 
   
Made in us
Incorporating Wet-Blending






I think it would help if you told us how large the project is, and to what painting standard you're going for.

I'm currently painting the 75+ miniatures Orcs Army set from Mantic, and it's definitely assembly-line painting with a lot of washes. I like the Army Painter range of washes, and their paint line is designed to work with their washes (the paints are on the light side) and for one-coat opaque coverage.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/03/03 18:48:39


Crimson Scales and Wildspire Miniatures thread on Reaper! : https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/103935-wildspire-miniatures-thread/ 
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





United Kingdom

Personally, I use paints from a whole bunch of ranges - Citadel, Vallejo Game and Model colours, P3, Army Painter (not a fan of these apart from the tone dips) Tamiya (clear red with some black and brown makes the best blood tone, althought the paint stinks) plus some inks not really designed for model painting, and some oil paints which so far I've been too scared to use! Sometimes I even mix different brands of paint together, or use airbrush paints with a brush, or thin Citadel paints with Vallejo medium. I'm just a crazy maverick. Either that or perhaps it's basically all the same stuff.
   
Made in no
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!






I've also been told that the chief difference between Model Color and Game Color, is that Game Color is formulated to be hard-wearing because it's specifically intended for game miniatures, whereas Model Color originally was designed for historical and military models.

I don't know if it's true, but when I first discovered Vallejo paints almost 15 years ago, I used it to paint my metal Imperial Guardsmen, and the paint did wear off in some places (as did the Citadel paint). I should add that I still own some of that paint, and some of it I can still use. You couldn't say the same thing about Citadel paints, which tend to dry out in a couple of years after you've opened the lid.

I'm currently in the midst of planning a new project, and I've made the decision to mainly use Vallejo paints from both the Model and the Game ranges. I've decided that I will use Game Color for every area of exposed skin and fur (and there's a lot of if; on men, horses and other animals), while I will use Model Color for the areas which represents cloth, leather and fur cloaks. The idea is that by differentiating between living and lifeless materials, making the lifeless materials appear dull and faded while areas of skin appear vibrant and saturated, I hope to make my models seem more dynamic and alive than would normally be the case. Thing is, living people are constantly moving. Saturated colours resonates in a similar way, as your eyes are drawn to them in much the same way you would notice someone moving. Having said that, I don't intend to paint my models in neon colours, it's rather the lifeless materials that I will play down for effect.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/03/04 01:50:21


 
   
 
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