Switch Theme:

Painting and Touching up pre-built and painted models  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant




Wales

Hi Dakkanauts,

In my FLGS, a guy is wanting to sell his Necrons to me, as he isn't really feeling the army any more, and he enjoys the Imperial forces more (he's always been a IG player, so he's gone back to them!)

So, I'm thinking of buying his models, as he's willing to sell 25 warriors, 9 scarab bases and 2 ghost arks for £70, which is a good £40 saving. He's been more of a player than painter, so his miniatures are simply painted with one thin coat, and mould lines not removed. The build quality is very good, so I'm not worried about that.

I'm wondering how easy it would be to remove the most glaring mould lines, repaint the miniatures (he's gone for the standard Necron colours, as am I, but with a few little changes) and base them.

374th Mechanized 195pts 
   
Made in sg
Troubled By Non-Compliant Worlds




Salamandastron

Stripping them with dettol or acetone shouldn't be too hard. There are many tutorials for it on the web, and once they're stripped the rest should be fairly simple.

Revenge is a dish best served with mayonnaise and those little cheesy things on sticks. 
   
Made in us
Nurgle Predator Driver with an Infestation





Eugene, Oregon

Also since it's one thin coat the stripping process should hobby smoothly with no snags.

Blistered Be.
40k: : 6500
2000(GK allies -Sons of Opet)
3000 Sons of Malice( played as primaris Salamanders)

AoS: 5500 
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block





Don't reach for the paint stripper automatically. Depending on the model and how thin the paint job is, you might be able to get away with just clean-up and touch-up.

I just stripped (Biostrip) and painted a load of old skeletons. When I was nearly finished I found another couple of models that hadn't been stripped. They just got a touch-up paint job and now I can't tell the difference between them and the stripped models.

On the other hand, removing the mould lines might leave an uneven surface that needs to be sanded down. Then you'll need to re-prime the exposed model before you can paint it. At that point you're looking at a full strip and re-paint.
   
Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

DO NOT USE ACETONE!!!!

It will melt plastic into a puddle of goo.

If you are going to clean up the mold lines you may as well start from scratch and strip with Purple Power or Simple Green. Dettol also works well.
   
Made in nz
Been Around the Block





If the basecoat he has done is thin enough, just go in and redo the basecoat.

That said, the beauty of an airbrush (in my case) is that I can lay down colors without the worry of obscuring any details.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: