Author |
Message |
 |
|
 |
Advert
|
Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
- No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
- Times and dates in your local timezone.
- Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
- Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
- Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now. |
|
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 16:58:27
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Focused Fire Warrior
|
I have an older Crisis Suit Commander model(circa 2001) that came with the Crisis Suit sprue and then a few extra metal bits. When gluing metal to a plastic model should I use super glue or the regular model glue from Citadel?
The other question would be about undercoating. Will the undercoat come out looking any different on the different surfaces? I would guess not, but I have never used metal for models before so I just want to be sure. Thank you for any help you can provide!
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 17:43:13
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Regular Dakkanaut
|
Plastic to metal parts need superglue as poly cement (or whatever gw are calling theirs these days) works by effectively melting two plastic components into each other.
Can't see there being a difference with the undercoats, my old ork stormboys for example never had a problem with that
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 18:14:15
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Longtime Dakkanaut
*Current meatspace coordinates redacted*
|
Yup, you want Super Glue for that action. I'd also recommend pinning the metal piece too, almost regardless of size. The undercoat will be the same though, no worries there.
|
He knows that I know and you know that he actually doesn't know the rules at all. |
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 18:22:50
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Focused Fire Warrior
|
Thank you both!
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 18:33:04
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Powerful Phoenix Lord
|
And be sure to sand/file the joining area nice and flat. Shouldn't be a problem after that. The key is a flat-to-flat surface area.
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/19 19:27:00
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Infiltrating Broodlord
|
I would also go as far as washing the metal bits so it gets rid of the mold release and makes a better bond on the plastic.
Do not forget to score each piece where they will be glued so the glue makes a stronger bond.
I might even go as far as to use a bit of JB Weld 2 part epoxy to make sure the pieces are together forever.
|
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/19 19:27:16
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/21 11:37:14
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Dakka Veteran
|
I've heard that a little bit of greenstuff in between the jounts helps, the superglue has a chemical reaction with it that makes it hard like epoxy.
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/21 12:16:30
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Anti-Armour Swiss Guard
|
^^ ONLY the surface of the GS. The superglue won't penetrate INTO the GS.
The GS itself (at 50/50 mix, never cures fully rigid) and that slight springiness acts as a sort of shock-absorber for the joint, though.
|
I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
|
|
 |
 |
![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2017/05/21 12:35:50
Subject: I have a couple of questions about models that are part plastic and part metal...
|
 |
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf
|
KINGPIN54 wrote:I've heard that a little bit of greenstuff in between the jounts helps, the superglue has a chemical reaction with it that makes it hard like epoxy.
It's not a chemical reaction. Superglue likes flush joints with no gaps, any gaps become weak spots in superglue, greenstuff fills the gaps and is much tougher, while the superglue holds it all together as the GS cures.
Gluing metal to plastic, it depends on the part, sometimes I use superglue, sometimes epoxy, sometimes pin it.
The undercoat possibly will look a bit different on the metal parts to the plastic parts if you apply it thinly, the same as it might look different on different coloured plastics. It just depends how thick you apply it and how good coverage the primer and undercoat has.
|
|
 |
 |
|