Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So I've noticed that shade techniques have started to come out more and I think it looks like a really quick way to paint a mini and have it actually look good. My problem is, you need a good base coat of primer to begin with. A good example is the recent Pox Walker tutorial from Duncan, requiring a layer of Corax White.

I always struggle to get a good, even coat of spray onto my minis, often leaving little crevices such as arm pits and under other small details that the spray can't reach into. Does anyone have any tips on how to cover a mini evenly so I can move strait onto the shade technque? Is their perhaps a base paint from the Citadel range that is the same colour as Corax that I can base with over the top for a second coat to even it out?

Thanks in advance

I use disposable plastic gloves to hold the models so I can move them around and ensure even coverage. I do them one at a time.

It works pretty well.

Do sub assemblies (aka keep the arms and heads and back packs off. glue only the torsos and legs together first)

if that is not possible, then prime the whole model, then go back and hand paint the arm pit type areas with a color matched paint or paint primer.

As mentioned...

1) If the model is multi-part, consider leaving parts unglued if you need to prime them (sticking small items to large pieces of tape to hold them in place works.
2) Use a paint mixing stick w/ tape to hold a miniature, or use gloves to hold the miniature so you can spray lightly from every angle.
3) If you're spraying on a board or piece of card...spray the minis and then wait to dry --- then lay them down on each side and spray the missed creases crevasses.

Most importantly spray in many light strokes, starting your spray just before the miniature and sweep it across quickly/gently. Do NOT hold the spray on the miniature and wiggle the nozzle around. If you've ever watched a professional body shop paint a car, you're looking for that kind of motion. Simple sweeps across the miniature - many light coats. Do NOT hold the spray on the miniature and keep dousing it with paint.

Once you think you're done - let them dry and then inspect them. If you missed a spot, hit it with a couple of light sweeps.

You guys are legends, thanks heaps!

Also, something I've been meaning to replicate but have not...in high school my buddy and his father would use small wooden towels with little metal alligator clips epoxied onto the ends (small ones like you'd find for tiny electronics, etc.). They would use the alligator clips to the hold the metal slotta tab when priming a miniature - I figure it would work similarly well with miniatures mounted to a base.

When primed they'd stick the towel rod in a large piece of styrofoam so the mini could dry. Very efficient.

EDIT: Clips like this - then some wooden dowel rods (or maybe barbeque skewers even)

https://www.amazon.com/Trusted-Buddy-Alligator-Electrical-pieces/dp/B01N8P5NX9/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1497722646&sr=8-16&keywords=electronic+alligator+clips

Bought something like these and highly recommend.
Pin parts, clamp on pin and prime/paint with ease.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UY0O584?psc=1

I paint batches of minis on a box lid and hold them on with duct tape. Make a loop with the sticky side out, place them on your box and then press your bases down onto them. If I'm detail painting one model I'll do the same on a small box or an old paint pot.