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Recently I've decided to take a step into the world of using pigments on my miniatures, after doing a little research it seemed that secret weapon pigments were a good brand to go with. I'm looking for a bit of advice on how to use them, I'm intending to use them on some Necron models to achieve a rusty effect. The questions I have so far are:
- After looking through the secret weapon range, they have a product called pigment fixer. Before doing research I had planned to seal the pigments used with a varnish, however I'd read that this can sometimes discolour the pigments, and can sometimes have unpredictable reactions. I'd like to try and avoid any problems, and wondered if anyone had previously used the secret weapon pigment fixer and if the results were good? also would I be able to put it through my airbrush rather than sealing it with a brush?
- Using rust pigments I feel that it would probably be best to put them onto the miniature dry until the desired effect is present. Is this the right way to go about rust pigments? does anyone with experience have other advice or techniques that may come in handy?
- Last off I'd like to ask about a particular pigment, again from secret weapon named metallic iron, I was considering using this after rust pigments, just to make some of the area look like more fresh metal, is this a good idea? would it work for that?
Ghostkeel wrote: - After looking through the secret weapon range, they have a product called pigment fixer. Before doing research I had planned to seal the pigments used with a varnish, however I'd read that this can sometimes discolour the pigments, and can sometimes have unpredictable reactions. I'd like to try and avoid any problems, and wondered if anyone had previously used the secret weapon pigment fixer and if the results were good? also would I be able to put it through my airbrush rather than sealing it with a brush?
Matte varnish can often seem to remove pigments applied directly to a miniature and lots of people (myself included) just don't apply anything over pigments, even on gaming models. I've personally never used pigment fixer in the manner that you're describing, but I will use it to fix large a large amount of pigments to replicate chunks of dirt, like on the wheels and along the bottom of the box trail on this model (you can zoom in on it in my gallery):
- Using rust pigments I feel that it would probably be best to put them onto the miniature dry until the desired effect is present. Is this the right way to go about rust pigments? does anyone with experience have other advice or techniques that may come in handy?
For a pure rusted surface, like an exhaust, I give it a base color of a ruddy-brown paint. Then I take slightly thinned matte medium and paint it over the surface. Before the medium is dry, I stipple on various brown and rust colored pigments. Once the matte medium is dry, the pigments are held firmly in place and have a crunchy texture to them.
Here's an example:
Spoiler:
- Last off I'd like to ask about a particular pigment, again from secret weapon named metallic iron, I was considering using this after rust pigments, just to make some of the area look like more fresh metal, is this a good idea? would it work for that?
The best use for metallic pigment is to apply it with your finger or rubber clay shapper along edges to simulate paint that's worn away. It also looks great on tank treads.
d-usa wrote: "When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
Different pigments (and brands) behave differently. Also the order in which the pigments are applied affects their result. Typically the first pigment applied will adhere a lot better than subsequent.
Varnish seems to dissolve almost all the pigment powder
Pigment fixer without an airbrush changes the effect of the pigment, making it look less 'dusty' and more 'clumped'
Edit: if its a gaming model and you don't fix the pigment, after a few games it will have mostly gone
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/07/03 07:08:33
@scootypuffjunior - That's some brilliant information, I'll stick away from that matte varnish and see what I'm able to achieve, I feel like a pigment fixer would be necessary as the miniatures are likely to see the table top at some point and I don't really want pigment coming off over time. Also thanks for the tip on the metallic pigment, I'll be sure to give it a go and see how it turn out!
@Mordian2016 - I thought that would be the case with pigment being removed after a few games. Like previously stated I definitely feel that the pigment will need to be fixed too! Thanks for that advice!
Ghostkeel wrote: Also thanks for the tip on the metallic pigment, I'll be sure to give it a go and see how it turn out!
Here's a video show how to use a rubber clay shapper to apply metallic pigment:
d-usa wrote: "When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
Yes! That video is exactly what I was looking for, even though I didn't know it yet.
I use the Vallejo version, Dark Steel, and I love it, but blimey is it messy to use. Thanks to you posting that, I have been using a clay shaper to apply it, and it's a revelation.
Does anyone make other coloured metallic pigments like that, in copper or brassy colours?