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There are a lot of ways to go about this. It all depends on what look you're going for.
I would generally pick three or four colors: one shade, two mid tones, and one highlight. Paint the entire fabric section in your shade color, then layer with the two mid tones focusing on the raised areas. Finally, highlight with an offwhite like Ushabti Bone or Vallejo Ivory. You don't usually want to highlight with pure white on something like this because it will look unnatural.
The colors you choose will determine the look of the robes. For a more natural or even weathered/dirty looking effect use tannish colors. For a colder, cleaner look just go with straight grays.
I would personally not use a wash at all unless it is to "color" your shade coat, such as using gray and then bringing in some brown tones with Agrax Earthshade so that you can build up with tan colors.
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