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What do you guys do? I am thinking of putting them on bottle caps using silly putty. Then priming and painting them that way so that I won’t have to worry about paint getting on the bases

This is how I do it.

I either pin their feet to corks or poster tac them to some small bottles and lids that I have. Occasionally I'll just super glue their feet to the lids, it's pretty easy to break them off.

You know what is sad I still don’t know what pinning is or how it works lol.

I am going to stick with silly putty from the dollar store unless that has issues, if so I will have to seek out that tack stuff

Pinning is simply using a hand drill to make a little hole where you would like to attach one thing to another, then gluing in a paperclip or something similar to keep them together. You can see that Modock has pinned the feet of his middle model to the cork in the picture above. I prefer to do it that way because it keeps the model more stable during painting, and putties can flex around on you. Corks also make a nice painting handle. Either way works, though, I use them both all the time.

Stavkat wrote:
What do you guys do? I am thinking of putting them on bottle caps using silly putty. Then priming and painting them that way so that I won’t have to worry about paint getting on the bases

This is basically what I'm doing with my Primaris marines, though I'm full-on painting in subassembly (usually the gun arm and backpack separately). All parts are mounted on short pieces of wire (paperclip) embedded in wine corks. The main reason (for me) to do this is make reaching many areas easier. 32mm and larger bases can make it difficult to reach areas.

I have trouble building / creating the base AFTER the miniature is painted. My bases are done with white glue, and getting the debris around already painted feet is not funny. But IF the base is flat, or pre-fabricated, feel free to paint and glue it separately.

ninn wrote:
I have trouble building / creating the base AFTER the miniature is painted. My bases are done with white glue, and getting the debris around already painted feet is not funny. But IF the base is flat, or pre-fabricated, feel free to paint and glue it separately.

I prefer to base separately to the miniature and had the same issue. I got around the problem by lightly sketching around the feet to give a rough footprint then cut masking tape to fill the drawn footprint. Glue and base around the masking tape then remove the tape once everything's dry. The tape will remove anything that spilt onto the footprint and if done right will leave a nice area to attach the mini to and no chance of stray debris on a freshly painted model.

Alternatively, if the model provides enough clearance between the legs attach them to the base then base around those and scrape off any stray glue/debris before priming.

Foxfyre wrote:

ninn wrote:
I have trouble building / creating the base AFTER the miniature is painted. My bases are done with white glue, and getting the debris around already painted feet is not funny. But IF the base is flat, or pre-fabricated, feel free to paint and glue it separately.

I prefer to base separately to the miniature and had the same issue. I got around the problem by lightly sketching around the feet to give a rough footprint then cut masking tape to fill the drawn footprint. Glue and base around the masking tape then remove the tape once everything's dry. The tape will remove anything that spilt onto the footprint and if done right will leave a nice area to attach the mini to and no chance of stray debris on a freshly painted model.

Alternatively, if the model provides enough clearance between the legs attach them to the base then base around those and scrape off any stray glue/debris before priming.

For painting models, depending what they are (some need more subassembly), I usually pin to a cork or tack to an old pill bottle (filled with sand so it doesn't fall over). I've seen silly putty used just fine as well. It's great for masking as well from what I've seen.

I've seen people use old flat lids, orange juice bottle lids, whatever - basically go for it.

RE: basing after painting - I swear it's like a catch 22! tough either way.

Anymore I really only do as Foxfyre does for character models. For infantry models, I just figure out how I'm going to base them and then use the pin I put them on, on the cork or whatever, to pin them to the base. The main reason you need to possibly be a little more careful with this latter idea is, that if you're using rock rubble, it can be a bit hard to drill into the base! So if that's an issue, I'll dry fit the model, pre drill a hole, glue in the pin (paperclip), and then later cut it to the appropriate length.

Anyway, hopefully this helps some!

Good luck and happy painting

ninn wrote:
I have trouble building / creating the base AFTER the miniature is painted. My bases are done with white glue, and getting the debris around already painted feet is not funny. But IF the base is flat, or pre-fabricated, feel free to paint and glue it separately.

Just use an old brush to coat the base with white glue Depending on what I'm doing I use either thinned or unthinned white glue. For thinned I just thin it in a small cup and then apply it with an old brush. For unthinned I'll often just blob it straight from the bottle on to the base, but then use a brush to actually spread it over the base.

Rinse the brush off regularly to stop it turning to complete crap, but obviously still use a brush you don't care about.

But using a brush to spread the white glue I usually don't have any problems avoiding getting glue on the model itself.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Stavkat wrote:
What do you guys do? I am thinking of putting them on bottle caps using silly putty. Then priming and painting them that way so that I won’t have to worry about paint getting on the bases

I usually base last so I don't care if I get paint on them, but if for whatever reason I want to paint the models separate from their bases I'll sometimes superglue them to something. It works fine for plastic models, just use a small dab of superglue and you should be able to snap them off afterwards (worst case you might need to use a knife to coax them off).