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Hello,

I acquired a really cheap used Tau Army. Some had paint but i wish to make a new army out of this (Possibly an enclave farsight army where the armour look cool). Ive got in the lot a KV128 Stormsurge... what would be the best way to strip the paint on such a model ? I am using Super Clean for stripping models which work like a charm.. but for bigger model is there any tips ? I am concerned with the fact of the liquid finding way inside the model and staying there. Maybe i could dip in water after the treatement..

Also if i ever need to repair something what would be the best bits store (Ideally a canadian store but doesn't matter)

Thanks a lots for the help!

Try using a toothbrush dipped in Isopropyl if the paint isn't particularly stubborn; you can load up the brush so you can "soak" the model as best you can before you scrub the paint off, but even just initial contact can be enough to get the paint off.

I did a tutorial quite a while back on Isopropyl, might be useful to you - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/697164.page. Someone did strip a Baneblade in that thread by fully submerging it in Iso, and that's very possible to do considering how cheap it is normally by the litre.

Iso will also evaporate after a very short time, so there will be no trace of it inside the model if any gets in

As for bits, I have no idea how you'd replace parts for a Stormsurge via a bits site, as almost all of them don't cover vehicles that large. I would just be extra careful while you work on getting the paint off.

Hope that helps


G.A

You can either rinse the model after the fact, or hit it with some compressed air --- but more importantly just let it dry out for a couple of days before working on it.

 General Annoyance wrote:
Try using a toothbrush dipped in Isopropyl if the paint isn't particularly stubborn; you can load up the brush so you can "soak" the model as best you can before you scrub the paint off, but even just initial contact can be enough to get the paint off.

I did a tutorial quite a while back on Isopropyl, might be useful to you - https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/697164.page. Someone did strip a Baneblade in that thread by fully submerging it in Iso, and that's very possible to do considering how cheap it is normally by the litre.

Iso will also evaporate after a very short time, so there will be no trace of it inside the model if any gets in

As for bits, I have no idea how you'd replace parts for a Stormsurge via a bits site, as almost all of them don't cover vehicles that large. I would just be extra careful while you work on getting the paint off.

Hope that helps

G.A

Interesting. I didn't think about iso. The evaporate attribute of iso look like a perfect product from stripping. However, it would cost me more than Super Clean.. i just got a 4L of super clean for 20$. It look like Iso 99% cost 5$ for 500ML. I am in Canada maybe that why. Is the product really powerful against paint?

 Elbows wrote:
You can either rinse the model after the fact, or hit it with some compressed air --- but more importantly just let it dry out for a couple of days before working on it.

Yeah i might just do this and it would be alright.

Iso is great. I took a base coat off some tyranid shrike wings i got off ebay with a soft tooth brush after about 15 seconds in a iso bath.

I stripped a warrior that had been fully primed (with actual primer) painted and clear coated after an hour or 2 soak.

Iso is all i use.

I've quite literally used everything you can think of to strip painted models. From my experience super clean (I.e purple power) followed by any stubborn material being scrubbed with a cheap tooth brush and finished with a thorough water rinse works better than anything else (in most cases). It's also one of the more safer stripping agents to use on models. The only instance that I experienced with it damaging models is if finecast minis are left to soak for more than a couple of days. Other wise I've left minis in for weeks with no adverse effects.

I've never stripped a stormsurge but I have stripped comparable sized miniatures such as imperial knights and from experience I can contest that it is fine to let them soak in a large container filled with super clean. Provided the model is thoroughly rinsed with water once it has been removed from the stripping agent and is given ample time to dry (24-48+hours for a model that size depending on whether or not it's fully assembled) you will not have any issues. If you fail to rinse the model properly it won't result in any fluid being trapped but it will result in some pretty nasty crud that's almost growth like.

It should also be noted that people who recommend using "Dettol" for paint stripping would also be mostly better off using Isopropyl alcohol, since it's the majority component in dettol that takes paint off.

The anti-bacterial components aren't really needed for paint stripping.

Denatured alcohol is better than isopropyl, doesn’t evaporate as quick and you can see where you’ve put it

It was me that stripped the Baneblade/Shadowsword.
For large models it'd a good idea to use some inert material just to reduce the volume of stripping agent needed.
I like to use well washed pea shingle and isopropyl alcohol for large models.

Methlated sprit in the uk its really cheap and works brilliantly

NoradZero wrote:
Interesting. I didn't think about iso. The evaporate attribute of iso look like a perfect product from stripping. However, it would cost me more than Super Clean.. i just got a 4L of super clean for 20$. It look like Iso 99% cost 5$ for 500ML. I am in Canada maybe that why. Is the product really powerful against paint?

I get my bottles off eBay, and the price sounds about right there per 500ml. However, you can technically reuse iso, and I would argue that it is worth the extra price when you consider that it will evaporate and leave no trace on the model, not even a scent of it.

It is definitely as strong as Super Clean, but its effectiveness on large models will depend on the paint quality that's already there; if it's a particularly poor and lumpy paintjob that is also quite old, it may require you submerging the whole model in a container full of iso for half an hour or so. Most of the time applying it directly and scrubbing it off with a brush will be sufficient though.

 General Annoyance wrote:

NoradZero wrote:
Interesting. I didn't think about iso. The evaporate attribute of iso look like a perfect product from stripping. However, it would cost me more than Super Clean.. i just got a 4L of super clean for 20$. It look like Iso 99% cost 5$ for 500ML. I am in Canada maybe that why. Is the product really powerful against paint?

I get my bottles off eBay, and the price sounds about right there per 500ml. However, you can technically reuse iso, and I would argue that it is worth the extra price when you consider that it will evaporate and leave no trace on the model, not even a scent of it.

It is definitely as strong as Super Clean, but its effectiveness on large models will depend on the paint quality that's already there; if it's a particularly poor and lumpy paintjob that is also quite old, it may require you submerging the whole model in a container full of iso for half an hour or so. Most of the time applying it directly and scrubbing it off with a brush will be sufficient though.

Is that would do the job ? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Isopropyl-Alcohol-99-USP-Grade-4x1-Litres-1-06-Gallons-Best-Price-on-ebay/332552504175?hash=item4d6dac836f:g:YeUAAOSw0h9Zqw3A

It look pretty cheap compared to prices i have seen local. If your saying its as powerful i may give it a try! Your talking about letting it soak for half an hour? I am currently soaking infantry in a super clean bath for like 1.5 week. Most paint gone (there still some) but primer still there.

That's the stuff!

And yes, it is definitely very strong (just look at that tutorial thread if you don't believe me). However, again, the paintjob you're trying to remove could be extra stubborn. I would give Iso a shot with 30 minute submersion, and if you can't get the paint off after multiple submersions, use the Super Clean you have, then wash out the model with Iso so it flushes any Super Clean that got inside of the model out

Best of luck.


G.A

 General Annoyance wrote:
That's the stuff!

And yes, it is definitely very strong (just look at that tutorial thread if you don't believe me). However, again, the paintjob you're trying to remove could be extra stubborn. I would give Iso a shot with 30 minute submersion, and if you can't get the paint off after multiple submersions, use the Super Clean you have, then wash out the model with Iso so it flushes any Super Clean that got inside of the model out

Best of luck.


G.A

Will Isopropyl will also remove GW Black Chaos primer?

If i was me id chuck that bad boy into a zip lock bag filled with 99% iso, zip it chuck it into a bucket and leave it for a week. it will pretty much let you strip everything off but the most stubborn of primers and crevasse with a hard bristled brush.

NoradZero wrote:
Will Isopropyl will also remove GW Black Chaos primer?

Yes, as well as any other GW spray. I also use Army Painter Primer from time to time and that will come off too

 Desubot wrote:
If i was me id chuck that bad boy into a zip lock bag filled with 99% iso, zip it chuck it into a bucket and leave it for a week. it will pretty much let you strip everything off but the most stubborn of primers and crevasse with a hard bristled brush.

Yes, you can try this too, although I would say that leaving things in Iso for any time after a few hours normally yields the same results. You should take care with any resin that you throw into Iso too, as they can warp and crack with prolonged exposure.

Damn! Then i need Iso asap! I am struggling hard to remove that GW black primer thing. After 2 week soaking in Super Clean.. the paint came off but not the primer. Here what it look right now...

https://imgur.com/a/w1dXQ

Thanks guys i will give it a try.

After a day in iso 99%.. some primer on edges seem to start to strip. I tried a brushtooth.. can't remove anything from it. That for sure a stubborn primer. lol


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Desubot wrote:
If i was me id chuck that bad boy into a zip lock bag filled with 99% iso, zip it chuck it into a bucket and leave it for a week. it will pretty much let you strip everything off but the most stubborn of primers and crevasse with a hard bristled brush.

Have you tried a week versus a day? Is there a difference?

NoradZero wrote:
After a day in iso 99%.. some primer on edges seem to start to strip. I tried a brushtooth.. can't remove anything from it. That for sure a stubborn primer. lol


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Desubot wrote:
If i was me id chuck that bad boy into a zip lock bag filled with 99% iso, zip it chuck it into a bucket and leave it for a week. it will pretty much let you strip everything off but the most stubborn of primers and crevasse with a hard bristled brush.

Have you tried a week versus a day? Is there a difference?

Iv had plastic in iso for like 5 minutes and it gets most of the stuff off (it will take a layer or two off it also depends on how cured the paint is as iv screwd up a model and quickly threw it into iso and it got most everything off in one go vs something i found finished from years ago will take 2-4 dips) . iv had it for a night and it gets more off. iv found a bucket with it and a bunch of models and it comes off.

all still needs a good scrubbin

true primer will still be difficult but as long as you get most of it off you should be fine to prime right over it after it dried. and GW Chaos black shouldnt be an issue for most strippers.

 Desubot wrote:

NoradZero wrote:
After a day in iso 99%.. some primer on edges seem to start to strip. I tried a brushtooth.. can't remove anything from it. That for sure a stubborn primer. lol


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Desubot wrote:
If i was me id chuck that bad boy into a zip lock bag filled with 99% iso, zip it chuck it into a bucket and leave it for a week. it will pretty much let you strip everything off but the most stubborn of primers and crevasse with a hard bristled brush.

Have you tried a week versus a day? Is there a difference?

Iv had plastic in iso for like 5 minutes and it gets most of the stuff off (it will take a layer or two off it also depends on how cured the paint is as iv screwd up a model and quickly threw it into iso and it got most everything off in one go vs something i found finished from years ago will take 2-4 dips) . iv had it for a night and it gets more off. iv found a bucket with it and a bunch of models and it comes off.

all still needs a good scrubbin

true primer will still be difficult but as long as you get most of it off you should be fine to prime right over it after it dried. and GW Chaos black shouldnt be an issue for most strippers.

Well its an old Tau army someone had so my guess is that it was primed black a while ago. However, i still have results so i won't give up. I will try using an electric toothbrush too that may help. In the end i won't care if i didn't remove ALL the primer.. i could simply clean it up and add a new layer of primer and done i guess.

Its strange really.. i tried another fire warrior and primer went out with the paint in only 2 hours. Amazing!

Look like both used different primer (at least that my guess) that would explain the difference. However, isopropyl 99 is awesome and as you said leave no trace. I found a big container for my stormsurge.. so i will give it a try soon. I can post pics too.

NoradZero wrote:
Its strange really.. i tried another fire warrior and primer went out with the paint in only 2 hours. Amazing!

Look like both used different primer (at least that my guess) that would explain the difference. However, isopropyl 99 is awesome and as you said leave no trace. I found a big container for my stormsurge.. so i will give it a try soon. I can post pics too.

Yes I would say that different primer (and maybe the thickness of the primer coat) is responsible for the problem; if Iso isn't cutting it, try something stronger like Super Clean or Dettol, then wash the model in Iso to clean up the gak stuff those can leave behind

What would be the best way to get rid of paint in crevises, holes, cracks and corners?

Im getting an hard time to get all the paint off from details. I am currently trying on a Vindicator.. Iso went well on it.. except there was lots of paint still in corners which seem stick to corners. Trying using a toothpick but still an headache. Maybe i could try next LA Totally Awesome or Biostrip 20 to see how they react with paint aswell.. Iso is pretty cool through except it seem to only work with friction as you said.. might be hard to reach paint of detailled miniatures. Ive put the Vindicator in a Super Clean bath for 3 days to see if it can get rid of the rest. So far its harder than expected. A product that simply melt the paint away or dilute it until there nothing left doesn't seem to exist. Iso 99 is definitivly the fastest way.. for small miniature its really easy to use it. For larger detailled one its a bit more tricky. But that only an opinion.

Well unfortunately the corners are going to be tough. and a tooth pick is probably the safest way.

try and dislodge a bit and then put it back in the brew to let it do its magic.