Switch Theme:

Will a plastic cutter be damaged from cutting resin?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






Topic.

I have had a general use metal sidecutter for years but with the increasing compactness of parts on the GW plastic sprues i had to get a tamiya presision plastic cutter.

darkswordminiatures.com
gamersgrass.com
Collects: Wild West Exodus, SW Armada/Legion. Adeptus Titanicus, Dust1947. 
   
Made in gb
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine





United Kingdom

Depends on the resin I'd say, but all the resin models/bits I've got and worked with tend to be softer (if sometimes more brittle) than GW plastic.

   
Made in no
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!






The type of resin used by Forge World, doesn't affect side cutters in my experience. FW resin tends to be softer and slightly more elastic than typical injection moulded plastic, although FW appears to use resin of different hardness for different purposes. I could be wrong, but it's my impression that infantry-type models tend to be made from a softer, more pliable type of resin, than the resin they use for vehicles. Seems like harder resin tends to fracture more easily, but retains shape better than softer resin.

Anyway, GW sprue plastic tend to be harder than FW resin, but it all comes down to the thickness you're trying to cut through. I've worn out a couple of metal cutters, but every time that was due to the spring breaking.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2018/03/19 15:07:12


 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I don't really think GW plastic is harder than resin. It might require more effort to clip, but that doesn't make it "harder". Hardness is a measure of a material's resistance to surface damage caused by scratching/denting/etc.

I don't have any models on hand to test, but I'd guess GW plastic is softer than resin.

Whether it's hard enough to prematurely wear clippers? I have no idea, never tested it. I do have a set of "plastic only" clippers that I only use exclusively on plastic, but I have not done testing to compare stuff.

An example of where ease of cutting doesn't necessarily equate to damage done to the cutters is carbon fibre, if you have some good sharp scissors it'll cut easily... for about 3 feet until the hardness of the fibres blunts the blades. Another one is cutting paper with fabric scissors, my mum would never let us cut paper with her fabric scissors because they're super sharp but blunt prematurely cutting paper.
   
Made in no
Longtime Dakkanaut






So i should basicly keep my old metal sidecutter for resin then?
I have a few FW products i want to order later on, and oher games who delivers models made in resin.

darkswordminiatures.com
gamersgrass.com
Collects: Wild West Exodus, SW Armada/Legion. Adeptus Titanicus, Dust1947. 
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





I use my sidecutters for both, and I haven't noticed any significant wear and tear on the edges as a result. I will admit sometimes when the sprue gates are tiny and hard to reach, I opt for my exacto knife to get in and do the job.
   
Made in no
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!






I usually clip first, and then trim it down with a knife after. I rarely just cut with a clipper.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: