Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I have been having issues with Tamiya masking tape ( the yellow kind) peeling some of my paint job off.

This is over a resin model I use VMC Black Primer. I then used VMC and VGA metallic paints. I spray the paint with Pledge Klear gloss cote. Then I used MiG enamel washes. I let all this cure at least 24 hours before putting on the tape.

Maybe I should remove some of the tackiness of the tape first? Should I do a matt seal coat after the wash. Did I not clean the resin mold release enough?

Finally as far as fixing it, if I just repaint over it, is there going to be a paint mark from where the paint was peeled or is it going to look uniform? What recommendations do you have? Thanks

you can remove some of the sticking power by dabbing it onto your skin. you also need to remove it within a golden time..eg dont leave it on too long. what is it youre taping for?is there a way you could mitigate the taping?

 Dynas wrote:
I use VMC Black Primer.

And there's your problem.

Vallejo primer is notorious for lifting from tape, even something as low tack as Tamiya tape. I would suggest switching primers either to Stynylrez or a lacquer primer with a little more bite.

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:

 Dynas wrote:
I use VMC Black Primer.

And there's your problem.

Vallejo primer is notorious for lifting from tape, even something as low tack as Tamiya tape. I would suggest switching primers either to Stynylrez or a lacquer primer with a little more bite.

Is it all colors of Vallejo primer, or just the black?

Vallejo primers of any color are awful, they may as well be normal paint. Badger Stynylrenz is much better, but you just can't beat rattle-can primers as they generally use more robust solutions that uses harsher solvents.

And as was said, sticking the tape to your skin a time or two before placing it down on the model is a very common modeler's trick to lowering the stickyness of the tape

Vallejo primers are not inherently awful in other areas, but they are awful in terms of this specific type of application. I would also agree that you can't go wrong with spray primers in practically every case, though. They're cheaper, stronger and have more of a tooth for paint to grab onto.

I use Vallejo Primer all the time and have had no issues when using masking tape. I generally slso use Tamiya tape. The difference may be in the application of the primer or in the use of the tape.

I use a 0.4mm needle at 60 psi and apply a single coat of undiluted Vallejo Primer from about 4" away. That I let cure until it's visually dry, i.e. less than an hour before using a regular brush or other tools on it.

I do nothing special with the tape and only stick it to my cutting mat when cutting shapes or widths.

 Stephanius wrote:
I use Vallejo Primer all the time and have had no issues when using masking tape. I generally slso use Tamiya tape. The difference may be in the application of the primer or in the use of the tape.

I use a 0.4mm needle at 60 psi and apply a single coat of undiluted Vallejo Primer from about 4" away. That I let cure until it's visually dry, i.e. less than an hour before using a regular brush or other tools on it.

I do nothing special with the tape and only stick it to my cutting mat when cutting shapes or widths.

Ok, I use Flow improver and shoot at a much lower PSI, about 25.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Kalamadea wrote:
Vallejo primers of any color are awful, they may as well be normal paint. Badger Stynylrenz is much better, but you just can't beat rattle-can primers as they generally use more robust solutions that uses harsher solvents.

And as was said, sticking the tape to your skin a time or two before placing it down on the model is a very common modeler's trick to lowering the stickyness of the tape

Cool. ill get some of the badfer stuff and give it a go. I have been moving away from Rattle can primers though, its hard to get into recesses and sometimes gets to thick. I do use AP primers on mass troops, but I am trying to get a really good paintjob and am moving away from AP.

Also, make sure you're washing the resin really well before assembling and priming. use dish soap or other degreaser and really make sure you get all the release agents and oils off the resin or it won't matter what kind of primer you use. If the resin is especially glossy, pick up some Scotchbrite pads (the kind for automotive body work, they look the same as the pads for scrubbing dishes but very much aren't the same) or fine sandpaper (800 grit or higher) and scuff up the surface with it. It'll help a lot. Properly prepping a surface for paint is crucial and really isn't that much more work