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So I’m trying to remodel standard eldar jetbikes as shining spears, but I want to add a rim with fleur-de-lys, or possibly a raised web like pattern on the nose of the bike.

But I have 10 to do.

And I want them to all look the same.

My options as I see it:

1 -Draw on in pen, green stuff over the top and accept the differences.

2- Do one that I’m happy with, let it set, blue stuff mold over the raised bits, fill that mold with GS and stick that to the next bike. Repeat.

3- use something other than green stuff. Thin plasticard cut to a templated shape and glued on?

Has anyone had experience with using Green stuff on a repeating project like this? I’m looking for any and all help and advice.

Thanks!

This is a really tough one. I have done a lot of GS work (even sculpting my own minis) and what you are asking eludes me.
None of your options seem likely to work if you really want exact matches.
1: Draw on with a pen and GS over. This is the way my skill level experience leans, because I would not need them perfectly identical, and can accept some variance. Getting each identical will be extremely hard, not because of the sculpting (although that too will be a test) but because placing the right amount of GS on each part will be hard (sculpting GS is really about moving, pushing, shaping, not removing material, although you can). If you are good with a hobby knife, you can trim after sculpting and maybe get good lines. Remember when working with GS, getting perfect smooth hard looking edges happens when you sculpt near the end of the hardening process. So if you try this, sculpt your forms until you like them, set it aside for 10- 20 minutes, then come back and it should be very firm, this is where you can smooth it into "sharp" edges. this advice goes for blue/yellow GS. There are other sculpting compounds that are designed to be much harder. Please read this article:
https://www.thebattleforge.co.uk/green-stuff-12-w.asp
2: This idea sounds great, but depends on how thick your GS sculpting will be. If you plan to have a thin spider web (raised maybe 1MM or less) making a mold of this on a curved surface, placing GS in such a mold and getting it back out will be a challenge. Not impossible, but very challenging.
3: Plasticard uses will depend completely on the part of the model. Again, cutting a plasticard form from a flat sheet and then fitting it onto a curved surface seems extremely challenging. I could see it working though.
One other option. I found a sheet of plastic/crystal fluer de lis at my local Hobby Lobby Iedit: Just realized you are UK. There must be some equivalent of Hobby Lobby over there?) which you could glue where you want, getting uniform forms at least. They were in the special stickers aisle and came in several sizes. Putting a band of GS along an edge is easy, then you could press these over it before it dries?
For a spider web pattern, you could actually try using some form of string, or that plastic like banding people use for beading and such. It would glue on easy, but getting the ends to connect and be smooth seems very hard.
I'm a big converter so I like your ideas. Wish I had better suggestions. Good luck.

I'd go for option 2 personally

I've gotten good mileage out of etched brass for stuff like this-- fleur de lis for my Battle Sisters, as a matter of fact. They bend nicely with curvy models and have nice crisp detail.

Hasslefree Miniatures has these:
https://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?product=fleur-de-lis~hfpkpro08&category=accessories~etched-brass-%28architectural%29

Which I used to spruce up the dozer blades on these, and probably the turrets as well by the time I'm done:

Thanks guys, you’ve given me a lot to think on.
I’m finding my return to the hobby (and finishing things that have been in the loft for 20 odd years) as much of a challenge as it is rewarding. A lot of the time it’s the little things that are catching me out. I used to be great with milliput but the formula has definitely changed. The staged hardening process of Green stuff takes some getting used to- especially the sticky stage!
The plastic models have so much detail, but I miss the heft of lead!
The brass sheet idea is interesting, it would be flexible enough to mold to the shape of the curved nose... does thin plasticard soften under a hairdryer? That might be easier to cut... or maybe paperclips bent for shape and GS to finish...


I think I’m going to have to experiment with 2 *and* 3 (I’ve got 10 chances to get it right!). I’ll make a photo diary and let you all know.

Press molding your green stuff sculpts should be possible. I've only tried it once myself but I got a decently accurate replica of a reliefed panel on my first go. I used a product called Instant Mold, sold by CMON, which was very easy to use and completely reusable (though I only ever used it that one time and lost interest myself).

Alternatively, the hot air technique would work with thin plastic, but you'd need to watch out if you wanted to mold the piece in situ since the heat could warp the cowling too.

Chiming in on the press molded green stuff idea, since I've been doing that more or less successfully for years.

It's easy to make a mold of a simple symbol like the suggested fleur-de-lys on a flat (or I guess curved, doesn't make much of a difference) surface, and subsequently fill it in with green stuff to the brim. Let it cure and glue it in the spot it's supposed to go. The best thing about it is that you don't have to worry about deforming the green stuff this way, and if you put too much green stuff in the mold cutting away excess material is easy.

Something to also consider is that green stuff remains flexible when cured, so for longer bits you will be able to attach them to a curved surface smoothly.

The downside of green stuff is that it needs a certain minimum thickness come out of a mold well. I wouldn't try to do a web pattern with it, at least not one scaled to something as small as a jetbike. It can probably work with enough care and lots of fiddling, but it would be far from my first choice.

Get one perfect, then make a mold of the whole part and cast duplicates in resin.

Another for the "Instant Mold" thing.
I got some a while ago, thinking I could make copies of certain pieces, but getting it lined up properly didn't work well.
But, for pressing a design onto a surface, that will work better.

How about using a blue stuff mould on one you have completed, them carefully fill the relief area with green stuff and push the next nose cone in. Use a blob of superglue in a couple of places on the green stuff. Then once the green stuff has cured you pull it out. Might be some bits not sticking completely but a few gap fills would be easier than repeating the whole pattern.