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Hello everyone, I recently started playing Warhammer and have built up a small army of orks. To paint the skin, I have used Warhammer TV's Ork tutorials to paint the skin with waagh flesh, beil tan green... etc. However, I don't really like the overly bright, unrealistic look. I would like to try using (in this order) :
Death world forest,
Elysian green,
Athonian camoshade
And ogryn camo.
I don't have the paints and would not like to get them just to find the scheme doesn't look good, so, any suggestions?
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/05/06 21:19:18
How I did Ork flesh ages ago to make it look more realistic is Knarloc green base (aka loren forest), warboss green drybrush then hit the whole thing with a sepia wash and a final highlight of Warboss green.
The sepia makes them look far more realistic and works with virtually anything. I did my Legion of Everblight for WMH following the same process and they have blue flesh and it still works.
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Warhammer TV has several different tutorials for Ork (and Orruk) skin ranging from dark to pale.
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This is the method I use. Produces the best ork skin vs the "green painted" looking orks which are so common. Its fast and easy and can be replicated with a brush (using thin paints and layering, takes longer).
Your Orks will look awesome on the table. The slight pinking for the thinner parts of the flesh adds a wonderful layer of depth.
meatybtz wrote: This is the method I use. Produces the best ork skin vs the "green painted" looking orks which are so common. Its fast and easy and can be replicated with a brush (using thin paints and layering, takes longer).
Your Orks will look awesome on the table. The slight pinking for the thinner parts of the flesh adds a wonderful layer of depth.
Thanks a lot for showing me the video! I'm sure this method would be fantastic on important models like warbosses and could really make them stand out from the crowd. Do you think warboss green would be a good substitute for straken green, since straken green is the only paint I don't have out of all the paints he suggested.
meatybtz wrote: This is the method I use. Produces the best ork skin vs the "green painted" looking orks which are so common. Its fast and easy and can be replicated with a brush (using thin paints and layering, takes longer).
Your Orks will look awesome on the table. The slight pinking for the thinner parts of the flesh adds a wonderful layer of depth.
Thanks a lot for showing me the video! I'm sure this method would be fantastic on important models like warbosses and could really make them stand out from the crowd. Do you think warboss green would be a good substitute for straken green, since straken green is the only paint I don't have out of all the paints he suggested.
Sure, only the hue changes. While the rest of the detail work is probably best for you "showcase" models (leaders). The skin is crazy fast (esp with an airbrush). Base, highlight, skintone in spots, wash, clean wash off high spots and you are done. Very good option for batch panting.
The rest of the detail work he does on this model and in the rest of the series is awesome for your leader models or just a squad you want to pop on the table. It really does pop, they are flashy gits afta all, always shown off n stuff.
Mini Chappers wrote: Yeah, the skin does look really good. Since I don't have an airbrush, shall I thin down the highlight colours and glaze them to the top most areas?
yup. it slows the process down but in batch painting that speed change is diminished.
Here's a tutorial using pretty much your palette, only a bit lighter. I used it for my Orks and it looks really good. It's light, but kinda pale and muted. Works well with a strong colored, vibrant armor. That being said, I believe your proposed palette would work well.
Mini Chappers wrote: Yeah, the skin does look really good. Since I don't have an airbrush, shall I thin down the highlight colours and glaze them to the top most areas?
yup. it slows the process down but in batch painting that speed change is diminished.
You can speed up the process by first drybrushing the highlight color on, and then glazing with the same color to get rid of the dusty look. Drybrushing also makes it easier to see where glaze.
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