sing your life wrote:
Desubot wrote:Wouldn't it be easier to mess around with primarus stuff to get the scale?
also realistically how big are true scale marines supposed to be?
Truescale is about getting realistic proportion far more than messing with overall size.
Finding proper proportion is the most challenging part of converting old
CSM to the new scale.
I've started converting old
CSMs to the new scale, going to post pics for a how-to article once I get the process down.
The real difference in height between the new and the old is about 3mm, but part of this has to do with the position of the legs. The old
CSM legs are slightly crouched, the new
CSM legs are straight and upright. The greaves - the armor around the shins - are not quite proportional to the height of the legs, when you separate the lower leg from the thigh it looks short.
There's also issues with the chest piece. When you adjust the legs and put a torso on the top, it looks a little shorter and not quite as wide compared to the new models. One of the things about the new
CSMs is they all have tabards / chainmail between the legs, which hides any issues around the pelvis. So it's not like there's a direct comparison between the models, you have to adjust for how you think they are supposed to look.
What I've been doing is as follows:
- Remove the feet from the legs using a sharp metal pointer.
- Cut the legs at the knee using clippers. This loses some detail on the back of the joint, but the right cut keeps the front looking fine.
- Saw the greaves in half horizontally. There's a natural cut area on most of them, which prevents you from losing detail.
- Repose the legs using steel wire, keeping about 1mm distance between the top and bottom of the greaves.
- Stuff some putty into the greaves and smooth it over. Stuff some putty into the foot area if needed.
- Let the putty cure, then re-do the back of the joints using putty and an x-acto knife.
This gets you to the point where you have straight legs. If you were to just put a torso on the top, the height difference is about 1.5mm. This doesn't really stand out unless you are comparing two models side-by-side, it's fine for tabletop quality. The easy solution would be to stuff some putty into the bottom of the torso and maybe add a tabard to hide some of the details.
The thing that does stand out is the lack of armor trim / detail compared with the new models. There's just a lot more spikes and pointy bits in comparison. I've been sculpting some in with putty and an x-acto knife. The ridges on the new
CSM models are all less than 1mm from the surface, so you have to really smooth out the putty first and cut away to make it convincing.
The one thing I haven't been able to work out is rivets in the armor. I tried slicing up some thin polystyrene rods but they look too Orky when applied, the size is off. Not sure how to add rivets but maybe someone can give me some pointers.
As far as the torso goes, I'm working on a technique to make them wider. I've been sliding them down the middle vertically, but this causes a loss of detail on the front of the armor that I'm not comfortable with. I also tried bulking them out on the sides by adding a tiny amount of putty, but this made the arms stick out a little at the shoulder. I don't think there's a way around cutting the torso if you want to exactly match the dimensions of the new sculpts.