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Hey all, I've recently acquired an Incubus party from Hasslefree miniature, I had a blast painting them. I decided it would be great to have the demonic part in demonic red skin color, and the rest of the model in various real life skin tones, because when you leave hell to tempt mortals, you want to cover as much tastes in men as possible. (There is also a Succubus tagging along with the gang)
(Discussion of aroused genitalia and pictures of the models below)
I have also got some cool bases to go with the models. I especially want cool bases from the start, because I bought some nice bases at my FLGS where they sold big sprues with many bases, so I got tons of extra, and I'm trying a few things. I got some more mundane ones with just basic stone floor, and I tried something with a “When you invoke daemons the floor becomes lava” effect, which one do you think works better with the models?

You know how some black people have darker lips and some lighter ones with more visible pink? Same thing. As far as I'm aware you have a span to work with stretching from (comparatively) lightly to heavily pigmented. Which one you choose is up to you.

On this particular succubus I'd say you're missing something. I'd either give the recessed middle of the penis tip a darker tone or highlight the nipples so the penis does not stand out like it's got nothing in common with the rest of the body. Although I'd give the former a try first.

I like the lava bases better. Even though you already have two skin colors on each model, I find naked models somewhat lacking in interesting details. The base certainly shouldn't outshine the actual model, but it's still a great place to add that extra color that helps the model stand out. I think the lava bases do that better than the plain one.

I like those brick looking bases. They're cool.

Thanks a lot, Geifer! I didn't expect so good advices so quickly! I'll try this and post the result here .

Alliedoll42, I got them from my FLGS, here is the reference:
https://hobbyshop.fr/hobby-stuff/socles-et-accessoires/50x-25mm-round-paved-effect-bases-renedra-13101.html
I don't think it's worth if to order stuff from France if you live in the US but you could maybe find other sellers closer to home!
The bases do look pretty cool! I'm just a little bit worried that they might be a bit too flat, making it harder to lift the miniature using the base, which encourage holding the mini itself instead, which can be bad for the paint in the long term. But I got some varnish, so it's going to be the occasion to finally try it out!

Oh, these are Renedra's textured bases? Very cool. I hadn't seen painted examples of them yet.

As a big fan of their flat (plain) bases, yeah, it can be fiddly to pick up models by the base. It works, but I tend to not bother unless I make a conscious effort. I do use (Vallejo brush on) varnish, though, and I haven't had any damage to models after years of handling. Unless you absolutely dislike the way varnish changes the look of your model, I'd definitely recommend it.

Funnily enough, because of how slim and devoid of sharp edges to grip them by these flat bases are, regardless of how you feel about varnish on the models, you may find that giving the base edge a coat to cut down on wear is a good idea, simply because you'll need more force to pick them up safely.

I just need to take the time and try the varnish I bought on a test model, and then I have PLENTY of models to varnish ^^.

I got new pics! With body fluids!!

I'm not finished with the Asian incubus but I'm not sure how to do a proper jet for him. I've been using UHU paper glue for the fluids.

Word of warning (which you may not need, but better safe than sorry): Try out varnish on special effects and such separately before you try them on a model to find out about any undesired interactions between the varnish and paint/effect/whatever.

There seems to be a problem with the linked pictures, so I can't really comment. I'll probably have nothing useful to say regardless as I tend to build with durability in mind more than pretty much anything else and these glue string thingies always strike me as the kind of special effect that you need only look at funny for them to come apart. Might be wrong, might be an exaggeration, but it's certainly kept me from experimenting in the past, so I have no experience to share.

That said, depending on the translucency you have and or/want, you might try to have a curved piece of white/off-white/beige thread with one thin layer of glue to get a rigid, curved frame. If you need for the glue to dry with the effects of gravity showing (more), you could then add a second layer once the curved jet is attached as intended.

Picture links should be fixed now. Those models aren't going to be play models, I don't expect them to see a lot of table time, that's why I tried those unusual and fragile effects that I likely wouldn't have tried on models for 40k or Warmachine. The strings tend to be more solid than expected though because they do bend a lot before breaking.

Also I got buyer's remorse pretty hard, thought having the effect on all 3 models was way too much and gimmicky, so removed the effect on the caucasian incubus… and the whole paint went with it, so I had to repaint that part. Well that was a fail.

I did try building upon a piece of glue that I had used for test and practice before doing it on the models, but even with a large glue string it's still quite elastic and won't keep it's shape unless it's tight. So I don't think it will work by itself, annd I'm afraid fabric would be enough to make it rigid... I was thinking about using the "melted flying base" trick from this video (which already showed me how to use the glue) but I don't have any flying base ^^'. Not sure how to find a spare one.

That guy is doing it so much better than I am lol. Also seriously I don't understand how anyone can use that glue for actually gluing paper!

Looks good. Lava bases work nicely, too.

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
Picture links should be fixed now. Those models aren't going to be play models, I don't expect them to see a lot of table time, that's why I tried those unusual and fragile effects that I likely wouldn't have tried on models for 40k or Warmachine. The strings tend to be more solid than expected though because they do bend a lot before breaking.

Hmm, yeah. Makes sense.

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
Also I got buyer's remorse pretty hard, thought having the effect on all 3 models was way too much and gimmicky, so removed the effect on the caucasian incubus… and the whole paint went with it, so I had to repaint that part. Well that was a fail.

Getting the right amount of any effect isn't easy. Does it look realistic? Is there enough that you can see it? What about on the table at arm's length? Does it obscure details you don't want to obscure? I found those pretty tough to answer whenever I applied any new effect. Snow, rust, OSL, you name it. Sad when trying to fix it things goes so wrong, but if you don't like it, I found fixing these kinds of things right away when you're actively working on the models and your plan for them is still fresh on your mind is better than leaving them be and agonizing over whether you shouldn't go back and do them differently forever.

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I did try building upon a piece of glue that I had used for test and practice before doing it on the models, but even with a large glue string it's still quite elastic and won't keep it's shape unless it's tight. So I don't think it will work by itself, annd I'm afraid fabric would be enough to make it rigid... I was thinking about using the "melted flying base" trick from this video (which already showed me how to use the glue) but I don't have any flying base ^^'. Not sure how to find a spare one.

How about very thin wire from those plastic and metal strips you use to close bags, or a single thread from wire mesh? I don't know how exactly they will look covered in glue, but they're usually light silver and going by the picture might look close enough that any discoloration will be perceived as part of the general reflections on the glue?

Can't watch the video right now, but if you need a clear plastic disc, surely there's not shortage of clear bases out there?

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
Also seriously I don't understand how anyone can use that glue for actually gluing paper!

Very carefully.

 Geifer wrote:
Looks good. Lava bases work nicely, too.

Thanks \o/ !

 Geifer wrote:
How about very thin wire from those plastic and metal strips you use to close bags, or a single thread from wire mesh? I don't know how exactly they will look covered in glue, but they're usually light silver and going by the picture might look close enough that any discoloration will be perceived as part of the general reflections on the glue?

If you are talking about the plastic zipper-like things used to make plastic containers for stuff like grated cheese re-sealable in an airtight fashion, that's genius!!!
I tried it and like the result a lot without even adding any glue.

 Geifer wrote:
Can't watch the video right now, but if you need a clear plastic disc, surely there's not shortage of clear bases out there?

It's not the disc, it's the bar that fits in the disc.
That video is really worth a watch imo. At least to give a look at the end result and see if you are interested in the technics.

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
If you are talking about the plastic zipper-like things used to make plastic containers for stuff like grated cheese re-sealable in an airtight fashion, that's genius!!!
I tried it and like the result a lot without even adding any glue.

Yep. Those are the ones. Glad it works for you.

 Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
It's not the disc, it's the bar that fits in the disc.
That video is really worth a watch imo. At least to give a look at the end result and see if you are interested in the technics.

I've watched it now, and yeah, that's pretty neat. Can't say I like the part where you have only one try and need steady hands, though...

I thought those acrylic rods should be easy to come by, even if you're specifically looking for GW ones from flying bases. As I recall those used to come with one base and two differently sized rods, though you'd always end up with a spare. No idea how it is these days, though. I haven't bought anything with small flying stands in a long time.

Well, Sisters of Battle never had anything that went on those flying stands so I have none ^^'. And I don't think they are used anymore but I may be entirely wrong on this. I just don't know who to ask for one, esp. if I don't want to tell them what I'm gonna use it for ^^.

I think the plastic ejac will be the most fragile thing of the whole bunch, with such a small contact surface. I think the only way to carry it around properly is this think I've seen some people use where you put a flat but big magnet under the base and carry them in a metallic case where they won't move at all. I'll look into that, but thankfully I won't need to carry them a lot .

If asked, you would obviously tell them it is... for SCIENCE!

Magnets work nicely. It's amazing how strong rare earth magnets are for their size, but even those magnetic foils that come in common base sizes, which may be the best for a flat Renedra base, are good for transportation. The miniatures being metal might make them a bit heavy, but they're all skinny dudes and not that substantial, so you may not experience any problems. I prefer a combination of magnets to hold miniatures in place and loose foam pieces around them to absorb shock in case the magnet can't handle it. Worked pretty well for me on the few fragile models I lugged around.