Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

As per the title.
Looking for tips on mixing, consistency, durability, texture etc.

I got the pre mixed stuff.. The uv resin. Dunno if that's the one you mean, but Its good. The squeezy bottle is easy to apply from, it levels well, cures quickly in natural light, and nice and clear. I had air bubbles but I think that was down to my inexperience pouring resin than the product itself.

If you mean this stuff - http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/mold-making/718-acrylic-resin.html I have tried it.

the 3-1 mix is rather thin and watery but does harden well - it is more of an alternative to plaster of paris rather than FW or 3d printer resin (the uv should be more like them)

It goes off reasonably hard but is somewhat brittle - i was making plasma gun parts for guard using a pair of press molds and it broke coming out of the mold, but it was only a 2-3mm thick, thicker pieces (like backpacks and torsos) might do better. The parts havent broken down though, not chipping or dusting like plaster of paris.

The stuff i made the molds out of was really good - http://zealotminiatures.com/zealot-shop/#!/Coolmorph-Thermal-Forming-Compound/p/46849451/category=22928005

I’ve had no luck with it at all it crumbles the second I take it out of the mould. Thanks for that link though, it looks perfect for a press mould, and if I use if for something fiddly it looks like I can mould in milliput:GS and heat the mould to remove it.

I ended up using just miliput and letting it set for a few mins - so its solid but not hard - then taking them out of the mold. That gave a little flex so it could come out, but kept the details. laying it flat side down on the table kept them staight

Has anyone used the green/Toxic UV resin ?