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I am noticing the sharply smaller end to the left of the trooper. I am thinking it could be carefully shaved to a more rounded look? I see a gap in track that would allow it to be done.

the tracks are also far from done... i used pieces of cardboard 3cm to 2 cms and glued them together to simulate "scaled" tracks... later i think i will add bitz i done with my holepunch set and glue them to the tracks to further detail the tracks...
the gap you see now is the current end of the work so far...have to make new bitz of cardboard...underneath the cardboard is a core of foamboard and a thin seamline strip...sponsored by my wife (its very long and has the right dimensions so i could use it to even the rubbish work of minewith the foamboard...)

Viktor von Domm wrote:the tracks are also far from done... i used pieces of cardboard 3cm to 2 cms and glued them together to simulate "scaled" tracks... later i think i will add bitz i done with my holepunch set and glue them to the tracks to further detail the tracks...
the gap you see now is the current end of the work so far...have to make new bitz of cardboard...underneath the cardboard is a core of foamboard and a thin seamline strip...sponsored by my wife (its very long and has the right dimensions so i could use it to even the rubbish work of minewith the foamboard...)

Good to see that you gave yourself room to work with Vik!

Now this was done with helpfulness in mind. Now this little traktor was done withe track system in plastic-card. Really hard to round out at times if you are not careful, but essentially I had to make the tracks look rounded enough to be taken seriously.
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And here was the first one. notice the big difference in the track plate design? Took me some time, but with the templates you sent, I can adapt the patterns to make other superheavies (I figured that will be one) that you are making.
But it is shorter and higher
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i´ve worked with plastic card for a for now paused landraider attempt and it was a huge effort to cut the plasticcard into shape! do you think i should better use another methode as the overlapping cardboard pieces to go for a tracksystem?

Now this was done with helpfulness in mind.

i am very open for critizism as i think this is you´re domain here with all your tanks you´ve built so far. so don´t get frightened off for any unintented missunderstandings from my part. i need that knowledge of yours! i could have posted the pic in my own thread but i thought this discussion more apropriate here^^. sometimes i think my german heritage gets the better of me as we germans tend to speak to straight to the point and this might cause beeing seen as rude^^ if i ever sound that way...it is purley unintentional!^^
and i just now understood what you wanted to point out with your most recent pics... the outer detail of the parts i have done now will of course see some more detail...your design and especially the last pic remind me of the leman russ or possibly the land raider design for the tracksystem...

by the way, do you know a good site wher to see on a pic all the names of parts of a tank so to better adress the parts in english? i fear i reach the end of my schoolenglish here know as it gets more technical by the minute^^

Well, Glacis plate=front. Mantlet=cannon mount, side or flank, self evident, rear, deck=top, turret most folks know that part, belly=underside. Skirt=extra side armor. Sponson= weapon housing off the sides such as the MK-I thru VIII series.

Overlapping cardboard for tracks is okay, some may do more elaborate work on their treads.

Yeah, I was trying to emulate the Centaur/Leman Russ side armors a bit when I made them.

Straight to point let's me know where you stand better, we Americans are also seen as rude for such a way of plain speech.

I made the list above, all attempts to find such a site that names the parts all try to give you sites that discuss a particular tank in details.

Oh yes, Bogey wheels=these are the wheels that touch the treads low on the system, basically "roadwheels" return rollers for track systems that use them instead of the old WWI and french style of return skid plates.
Idler wheel= helps keep the track on like a roadwheel but higher up.

Sprocket wheel=this is the drive wheel, usually connected to the transmission axle.

those tank terms are much apreciated shaso, helps me much better to communicate with you^^
i only got to know of the cetaur due to shrike as he wanted to make them out of epic leman russ kits i think...
first time i hear of rudeness related to american speach habits... mostly i only know all cuddly and overjoyed speach habbits... mostly from the west coast mind you^^

Overlapping cardboard for tracks is okay, some may do more elaborate work on their treads

care to help me with dong that? the treads should not look when painted as if they are cardboard overlapped...if push comes to shove i am willing to give the whole thing a redo from zero...so speak thy mind freely^^ better to start now anew then later and haveing to much work done in the wrong direction...

the problem is victor, that it's cardboard and unless you dress it up with thin plasticard, it's gonna look like cardboard when you paint it as well.
treads can be easily done out of plasticard, just cut a rectangle, then take a strip of 'T' shaped plasticard and cut a strip that is the same width as the rectangle. glue that in place and add 'rivets' to it and you have a caterpiller typre tread. here's an example of what i'm talking about:

just make sure that the piece of plasticard under the treads is thin and flexible enough to bend around your curves. here's a different style of tread that could be easily done with plasticard.

in this example, there's the underlying strip that the plates are set on, the plates themselves could then be rectangular cuts of plasticard, shave a small area from the center edge of each plate and drill and elongate a hole in the center.

BUT never ever do this:
http://www.geekologie.com/2008/06/epic_failures_how_not_to_drive.php
this was just for laughs.

Edit: for some reason that first link was also messing up for me, and did not improve by refreshing the page, dropped it as an image and tried it as just an url and it got worse. so i have removed the original picture and replaced it with one that is similar but will hopefully not fail to work properly.

ok fellas, today my wife also told me that the treads look odd...so i think we move this discussion now to my own blog to keep shasos to his own needs^^ he deserves the space to be used for his creations...would you follow this small linky provided here to share further thoughts and helpful hints^^

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/690/342213.page#2669151


thanks shaso and please help me further on my blog^^ also i would greatly welcome your insights SebastionSynn
as well, we can never have to many good heads with useful information bashed together ^^

also i would like to see the first pic as it seems to be non working...mind to share the link?


vik


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ups after reloading this page i now see it ... had looked the link of the pic directly too so now i am a bit more learned^^

Well, I had been thinking about doing like Synn said, or doing an style of GW tread with plastic rectangles with tube stock cut down and added like the ancient landraider kits used to do, or just add shapes to the treads with smaller plastic card cut outs.

Meanwhile, more of the pics. Treads have flats with bars in between them.
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Both Dragoons together
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i like those treads the most as of now^^ i think this is a good scheme right there...

also did i point out that i like your headlights? gives a real good workable style to the tanks!

The treads on the halftracks are simple, and easily workable imo.

The headlights were from scout bikes, they give you one for the bolters, and another for the grenade launcher in the kits. I simply cut them down, glued them in place and maybe some smoothing with putty.
The basic Dragoon smooth fenders. Had to add headlights!

yep the look you created is just as it is meant to be^^

Heh! what can I say? Fenders with headlights takes me back a ways.^^

so is it time again to dirty your models? or are you working with metalics on the other vehicles?

Gotta get the metal colors down before I add the dirty look to them, overlaid on the metal and camo of course. Note the treads on Lancer 1?
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of course you have to get the metal in your assembly line done first. then the dirtying^^

do you mean their built? how they look? i think i could actually try to scratchbuilt that look...got some mini tube thingies from the kids in abundace that could be used here...

Oh, have not begun to make the all sheet plastic tanks yet, so much to get done with the Old Crow kits as well as the rest of my "fleet" of tanks.
Done with the Vasily and T-440, done with the MBT-90D
done with so few of my big girls!

lol... big girls with big`uns^^

I bet someone already posted this, but I'm not going to slog through 26 pages to find out:

http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/Secrets-of-the-Third-Reich/Soviet-Vehicles/Nayk-Spider-MechaA-/prod_9068.html
THIS

Vik: You got that right!^^

Lessthan1337: I have seen that big beast! Superheavy Walker that would be.

I love old crow models, I haven't bought any of the actual tank kits but several turrets and gun parts to mod up my GW vehicles. I thought hard about those dragoon halftracks and now seeing the size I think they'd do fairly nice as Chimera alternatives themselves.

Here is my Manticore made with Old Crow's tactical missile turret

Nicely done Brotherjulian!


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Dry-brushing allowed the design to show through on this tread pattern
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A Lego Mark tank Male model.



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It is one oddball of a tank

i like to drybrush with very small amount of metal paint over black to even get a bit of a scratched look to the metalics...costs/wastes more paint but if i do swords and barrels or even platemail it looks much better than a thin coat of metalpaint...and to later wash it with badabblack...

Yep, washes will be applied and then the "muddy" effects. making it look like the bulk left the tank but left residue behind like all of my tanks!^^

Lancer 2 from the side.
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Wild camo scheme.

that camo looks most bizzare^^

Try this one on.

yep thats quite good looking...^^ i take that and a coke and a milkshake to go ^^

shasolenzabi wrote:Try this one on.

This was the same time period as the so-called "dazzle" paint jobs on British and allied warships. They look bizarre but in the days of optical range finding and picking your targets by eyeball it was a very successful means of breaking up a ship's outline which made it hard to determine the ship's size, type, or distance

Possibly would look like drifts of smoke if spotted from the side.

is that an eye on the front side?

looks a bit that way...