Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hey guys,

I have a tube of Pebeo white gesso, I want to use it to undercoat my resin Dante, are there any special things I need to do like watering down or add any medium before I slap it on to the resin?

I have used it on the scenic base I made for him, which is styrofoam and it went on a bit lumpy but looks great once painted, this was straight out of the tube although I did give it a shake before using.

Cheers

it would be a mistake to use gesso for priming minis, as its a thicker consistency meant to used on canvas, you'll probably lose all kinds of fine detail on the resin, but its your mini, do whatever.

Some people swear by it but there's different brands with different consistencies. You might try a bit of sprue first, I did just that a week ago with some white Liquitex gesso and forgot it about, thanks for reminding me. I was looking for a way to prime minis white during the winter for contrast paints during the winter when I can't spray.

I can test the gesso on the resin jump pack it has some detail, I'm using the metal JP because its better hence the scenic base and the brass rod up his rear end,

I can't really spray models atm because of wet weather and I don't fancy having to clean up the pigment dust again, it goes everywhere.

Gesso has a lot more body/texture than ordinary paint - that's what it's intended for. On a base or scenery, it's frequently a great way to add some texture, ready for washing and/or dry-brushing later. On a figure, that same texture is often less desirable or downright awful - fine for e.g. corroded Nurgle armor, but not for e.g. shiny metal bits or skin.

As mentioned above, the texture varies greatly by brand and age and by how much you thin it, so definitely test before using it on a big expensive figure.

I've used Black and Grey Gesso (Bob Ross for Black, liquitex for grey) and have had great results. I don't thin it down or anything. You don't want to glop it on, but you do need to apply it liberally, as it will dry and contract, which can leave points of a model uncoated, but I've never had it obscure detail. It's almost foolproof.

Now, on the other hand, Liquitex white gesso always goes on streaky and terrible for me.

If you are really nervous about Gesso, Vallejo does surface primer in a load of colors, in large bottles for a very low (relative price), and that stuff works just fine with a brush. It smells a bit more, and you have to be more careful with the application, but it is also great stuff.

After applying the gesso to the resin JP, I did half and half on the two jets and angel wings.
Sraight out of the pot is too thick, but when watered down it goes on perfect although a bit transparent so possibly a second coat would fix it.