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I'm just curious if anyone has tried this? I have just ordered a silicon mould to make rivets, and am wondering if I poured resin into it and stuck it under the uv lamp if it would work and I'd have nice resin rivets at the end. I know it could be messy, so I'd try using a pipette or pour from a beaker.

Thanks in advance.

I think you might be making the moulding process more difficult than it needs to be by trying to use resin, as you may not get full UV penetration into the mould to cure the resin, but it may not hurt anything to try.

I have cast and moulded many items with the two part polyurethane products and it is super economical and easy - and you can de-mould the quicker products in about 10-15 minutes.

I buy the cheap plastic cups and mix and pour - you can find the cups with the measure markers and keep one for the A and one for the B, then once you have the same amount for each, pour into another, stir for about 10 seconds and it is ready to pour into your mold. The nice thing about the polyu is there is a slight amount of oil that helps it come out of the mould easy. Not too sure about cured print resin...

Thanks for the reply. It's more a question asked out of interest than anything. I'll likely make them with milliput as the manufacturer intended, but I was curious as to how well it would work being a shallow mould and there always being a dribble of resin left in the bottle that gets wasted.

Oh, if they are shallow moulds suitable to push in epoxy putty, then you could be spot on doing them with the bit of resin left - good idea!!

I was thinking the 3D moulds that you split apart, like for a larger figure, etc.

Yeah, the shallowness of the rivet molds may make uv resin possible. I wouldn't try it on anything substantial.

Curious why you want to use it. My understanding was uv resin was mostly for thing like tabletops, where it's not injected into a mold.

More precise control over curing?

 techsoldaten wrote:


Curious why you want to use it. My understanding was uv resin was mostly for thing like tabletops, where it's not injected into a mold.

More precise control over curing?

Mostly just speed of curing. I intend to make a large number of them, and figured the curing time of the resin would be a fraction of that of milliput. As it happens I've had to use my hobby room to accommodate working from home at present, so that has killed any intention of working with resin whilst I'm in there 8 hours a day.

Why not use a 2 part resin rather than a UV resin? There are some that cure rapidly and you can be sure they are cured all of the way through.

Another recommendation if you're set on doing this: use clear resin instead of opaque. It will help achieve light transmission throughout the model instead of just the exposed surface.

You can totally do UV resin in molds. It's a common use for them as they're quick to set and since you don't have to mix there's no protentional of them never drying due to that.

The ones I've used really only set at maybe a Centimeter so you'd need to build up layers if doing something thicker then that but most have some guide on how thick they can reasonably cure correctly.