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Adventures log day 1


So its finally here my Phrozen Sonix Min 4k!

And its European!! This was something I should have been aware of and forgot about and sadly all the plugs we have at home are for UK to EU. So gotta wait another day or so for an adaptor to arrive.
After that I'm still waiting on a box of stuff and accessories that should arrive today as well. When the accessories arrive I can at least:

Line the shipping box it came in with tin foil and add the nail polish curer to make a curing box.
Lubricate the main arm and FEP (different lubricants for each) prior to using the machine
Prep the area its going to print in

And that's about it really. I'll have to wait on levelling until tomorrow. After that its test prints and see how things go. I know some have raised concerns about the lcd plate and the tape around it causing issues, however its mixed results; same for those who needed to sand the build plate. Both I'll wait and see the results of calibration and test printing to see if they require being done on mine.

Soon you can print all the things...


I joke....except my printer rarely has been turned off in the almost 1 year since I bought it. What's first on the list?

Hahaha, no idea what I'll start printing yet. At least once I'm past calibration/test prints and the like and hopefully if all goes well then I'll likely try some of My Mini Mayhems models like this stag

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-stag-majestic-pose-3-antler-variations-130691

as a starting point.

Adventures log day 2

The adaptor arrived, the power is on, the Ameralabs test print shape thing is inside and its doing its bleeping thing!

I'm not all full of fear, anticipation, impatience and all that.


Balanced the build plate
Applied White lithium lubricant to the Z axis screw
Applied PTFE lubricant to the FEP
Left resin settings to default in Chitubox for the machine for now
Set it to print the Ameralabs test print shape thing

Waiting now. If it all works then I can use the same resin and print another few test prints and vary the Zaxis height and curing times a bit based on what I can find online as recommendations. This should at least give me some increase in resolution from the Zaxis. Then its on to trying to print something really fancy.

Adventures Log Day 2 part 2

So end of the first day printing and I've learned a few things already both in the printer and the setup.

First up tools and equipment that I found I needed/am missing/had and found really useful

1) Washbowls - ideally two of them. This lets you place items wet with resin into them (like the build plate) when you're not dealing with them just yet, but still have to have them off the machine. Eg putting a wet build plate to the side whilst emptying out the vat. The second can be used to place items which have been cleaned and are only covered in IPA and are thus drying, thus shouldn't have any resin residue on them. Note because of the toxicity of uncured resin I wouldn't advise using a sink and drainingboard combo for this since the uncured resin in the first bowl will want to be wiped out and then the tissues cured (more on this later) prior to disposal.

2) A cardboard box - big one. To put all the towels, filters, gloves, stuff into that you don't need and that is waste after the process. Everything that needs a good dip in sunlight to cure the resin prior to being disposed of. Very important as you end up using A LOT of stuff (especially in these early stages where mistakes are more likely to happen and you're just going to use more stuff because you're not yet efficient with materials)

3) Empty bottle. This is another I totally overlooked, but after a bit you'll have a few. This is to pour used IPA into after cleaning with it. Ideally this bottle wants to be see through so that you can place it in direct sunlight and let it cure the resin (where it then sticks to the inside) so that you can re-use the IPA it several times. This just helps cut down on waste in the process and makes things a lot cheaper. IPA might not be super expensive, but at the same time its not free and every saving helps. Note that you will want to filter it twice (once going into the bottle and once coming out). Watch the video linked below for more details.
Video reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U1IshPqmak

4) Silicon/rubber spatula - saw this recommended on a video and found it fantastic. This is for cleaning out the Vat and the FEP. It's not strong enough to clean cured resin off the FEP if there is any, but it is strong enough to clean the liquid off. This helps you save every drop when returning it to the bottle (remember to filter it through a resin filter).

5) Remember that whilst the FEP is firm if you have a chunk of resin on it don't push around the edges with the plastic spatula (came in the box with the 3D printer) as you'll just likely mark the FEP, instead give the FEP a tiny push underneath to rise it up at one corner of the cured resin. A tiny rise will lift up a corner and once air gets underneath it should pop off easily.

6) Funnel. My Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K came with a funnel, its tiny and thus far I only used it to pour IPA from the wash container into a storage bottle. Resin filters that I picked up are far bitter and whilst they are firm, they are not going to free stand into the bottle. I got a larger regular funnel with a longer stem that easily sits with the filter inside and can drip until its all run through.

7) Brush - not sure what kind yet, but something soft to rub/agitate against the model when cleaning; esp for getting into tighter spots.

8) Stopwatch or other means of measuring time. Yes I've got a computer and its got a clock on it and I can tell time. I still think I need a timer dedicated to being something I can set for ensuring I spend enough time cleaning and curing the models. This is another one of those small costs that an expensive cleaning station gets around since most have built in timers.

Thoughts:
1) Gloves. I think I'm going through these rather fast and even though they are cheap and disposable, its again an area I should probably try and improve on. Granted when one shifts from small tests to full models or banks of small models it likely doesn't feel as bad; but right now I feel like I've likely used twice as many as I should have. Safety first though, but being efficient is still important.

2) The PTFE lubricant applied to the FEP appears to make a big difference. Note I did not try casting anything without it being applied, however from what I've seen of my build arm movements and of the sound it makes, I think I've got far less suction going on than others, which means less wear on the FEP and more reliable building. Overall I'd heartily recommend PTFE lubricant (comes in several brands, I've used WD40 in a spraybottle which I spray onto a microfibre disposable cloth before wiping onto the FEP). Video where I found out about this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJlyJAg3BBk
Note I do plan on eventually changing to a None-FEP or nFEP film in the future as this also reduces adhesion on its own (so the combo is likely great for general use and on big stuff).

3) I can see value in getting one of the cleaning and curing machines that are sold. Whilst they are not cheap, they do let you put the model in a container and agitate it (those that I've seen have a loose fan in the bottle of the bottle; a cradle above for the model to sit in and then a magnet on a wheel under the plate; the machine turns the magnet which turns a magnet on the blade inside the container which then agitates the IPA); which leaves you free to do other things like cleaning up the build plate; filtering the resin (if needed*)


Things I certainly need to learn/improve on

1) Cleaning. The feel of the model and look when clean before curing; esp when felt through nitrite gloves. As well as the best way to general clean beyond swirling it in some IPA. I do use two containers for this; one to swirl and do the majority of the clean and the second to rinse off.

2) Cleaning. Gotta find out how many times I can re-use the same IPA before dumping it for fresh. Is it every single model or can it be used several times before being stored and restored for use (note the video above on re-using it mentions that clearing can take several weeks in sunlight - granted one might speed this up using a UV light or if you live in a very sunny region; but its still not going to be ready for use the next day).

3) More learning on settings, next time I think I need to play with printing the same test model at some different values. Thankfully the Ameralabs test model seems to only take 1.5 hours or so (variable on settings of course) to print so with a proper plan I could get several printed easily within a day to vary a few settings and hopefully see some results.

Overall this has been a great first day. I can certainly see the learning aspects of it and the fact that there's a fairly steep curve of multiple skills you have to pick up and that's before you get to varying settings to optimise things and find the sweetspot for the printer and resin.

And finally some photos of the first model - granted I "should" be printing testers, but I wanted to see an actual model come out of this machine.





The antlers have failed and that's totally my fault, I saw on the pre-supported file that they weren't greatly supported, I did add in some supports and then for some reason either didn't save it right or used the wrong version (and didn't double check). The default supports were all on the neck and even when it was part way cast I could see several had failed and the part was moving. It actually cast a lot better than I thought considering the failure, but its a good lesson in double checking files before sending them to the machine. And its just nice to see a failure that I can identify and pinpoint the problem with this early on. Comments by another user in another thread suggest that my lifting speed might also be too fast (mostly this is default with a little tweak after the first two tests) and I'll try slowing things down to 50mm/min. This should help with reducing the chances of broken supports.

Another thing to note, close up camera shots (esp unpainted) will show layers lines that simply will not appear easily to the naked eye and which, with primer and paint, won't appear at all. Though I'll be interested to see what mix of settings on Zaxis and on the AA and smoothing might well help create a softer effect for the edges.

Settings for this model:
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K Printer
Phrozen Aqua 4K Grey Resin
Layer Height 0.04mm
Bottom Layer Count 8
Transition Layer Count 0
Exposure Time 3.5s
Bottom Exposure Time 50s
Light off Delay 9
Bottom Light off Delay 9s
Bottom Lift Distance 6mm
Lifting Distance 5mm
Bottom Lift Speed 70mm/min
Lifting Speed 70mm/min
Retract Speed 150mm/min

Anti-aliasing - on
Grey Level 4
Image Blur - off



It has also made me realise that those who argue that 3D printing will replace the traditional sale of models are somewhat hyping it up. At this stage home resin 3D printing is a lot of faff and mess and requires some degree of patience and persistence to get solid results - which can be frustrating when you spend hours waiting only to find its failed. Sure the model off the shelf costs more and you only get 1 set per purchase (as opposed to a cheaper 3D file that you can print however many times you want); but the model off the shelf works and whilst mould lines, gaps and such are still part of that life, they are much quicker processes. Perhaps some day 3D printing will become effortless and reliable and the machines cheap, but its not today. Indeed once you add up a machine, accessories, resin, IPA and all the other things you could be well on your way to a good chunk of a 2K army if not all the way. Plus you still need glue, cleaning tools, blade, clippers, primer, paints and all the rest.


*If the model cast well and the soft scraper doesn't feel anything when you agitate and rub the FEP with the liquid resin inside it, then you can re-use it. I've also read of people who keep the resin in the vat long term (days); provided the machine is kept away from sunlight and the temperature doesn't make any big swings (esp in the colder temperatures).

Congrats!

In my personal experience stuff stopped failing when I dropped lift speed to 40. The antlers might have just been poorly supported tho. Can't comment on exposure times as I know your resin is a bit exceptional in that regard.

Thanks Blackfang - I'm thinking it is the undersupporting, though not just in the antlers, but also the lower head as well.


Adventures Log Day 2 part 2


Day 2 and instead of a rafter of tests I wanted to try and get the antlers to print correctly today. I also played with the settings a little after reading around a little more with the Phrozon 4K resin. This was a non-serious test and at some point in the next few days I'll try a proper series of controlled tests changing only one variable printing a small test image. For this I further adjusted the curing time, but also lowered the layer height and turned off the AA.
The head, however, failed though this time in a new way!




Settings for head on the left (from yesterday)
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K Printer
Phrozen Aqua 4K Grey Resin
Layer Height 0.04mm
Bottom Layer Count 8
Transition Layer Count 0
Exposure Time 3.5s
Bottom Exposure Time 50s
Light off Delay 9
Bottom Light off Delay 9s
Bottom Lift Distance 6mm
Lifting Distance 5mm
Bottom Lift Speed 70mm/min
Lifting Speed 70mm/min
Retract Speed 150mm/min

Anti-aliasing - on
Grey Level 4
Image Blur - off

Settings for head on the right
Phrozen Sonic Mini 4K Printer
Phrozen Aqua 4K Grey Resin
Layer Height 0.02mm
Bottom Layer Count 8
Transition Layer Count 0
Exposure Time 1.8s
Bottom Exposure Time 35s
Light off Delay 9
Bottom Light off Delay 9s
Bottom Lift Distance 5mm
Lifting Distance 5mm
Bottom Lift Speed 70mm/min
Lifting Speed 50mm/min
Retract Speed 150mm/min

Anti-aliasing - Off
Grey Level -
Image Blur - off



Conclusion - I think reducing the layer height has perhaps introduced too much weakness into the lower portion of the head. The head appears to have suffered a break in the supports early on, which I think caused it to dip when printing the face, thus resulting in the face starting in the wrong place, though interestingly this appeared to correct itself after a while - resulting in the rather pushed-in face segment. In addition the antlers have still broken free of the supports, causing mayhem on them. I suspect I need to consider adding more supports to the general antler structure, but further down. In addition perhaps adding more supports for the lower neck region to strengthen its support when printing the main body of the head.
It might also be that a few thicker supports on the underside of the head (the join area to the neck, ergo a non-visible area) might be worth considering for further strengthening.

At least those are my gut feelings based on what I can see.

Be interesting to hear what others think of my assessment and possible solutions as well as the overall result of the printing.

Adventures Log Displacer Disasters

Today has proven, thus far, to be a time-consuming lesson in two important aspects of Chitubox with relation to a rather difficult to cast displacer beast model.


My first casting failed abysmally with almost nothing of the model actually casting at all. After discussion it seems that the core problem was that the provided supports were simply not good enough to actually support the model itself during printing, with the result that the body of the model fell off early and thus prevented anything but the outside supports from being cast. Thankfully that print wasn't a total failure as the stag head that had failed before did cast well (this also required more supports).
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/796377.page

However two further attempts to test my own supports with the displacer beast met with a few interesting lessons in learning how to tame and use Chitubox

1) The automatically generated Raft under the supports doesn't always create perfectly. Indeed it had an odd error in its creation which resulted in gaps underneath itself. I didn't really noticed this (or wasn't aware to notice it) and the result was when the raft was being printed it suddenly gained a lot of mass all at once with nothing underneath to support; which promptly meant it pulled off the build plate. This happened twice before I realised the error, since the first time it happened I didn't check the file and instead assumed that I'd not cleaned/dried the setup correctly and that the peeling off was my own fault.
Third time and I spent ages trying to get the Raft correct. In the end I found that the best way was to change the area of the raft and then disable and re-enable it a few times. This seemed to clear the issue and upon generating with a larger area it resolved the problem. It doesn't feel like a neat solution, but it is a working solution and I'm more aware now of the problem to keep an eye out for it in the future.

2) Chitubox offers two kinds of save - regular and save project. Up till now I've been saving, however I've found it odd that, when returning to a model, I can no longer edit the supports and raft and that Chitubox now considers them part of the model itself. After fussing around with all kinds of other thing I found the save project - which preserves the raft and supports as separate entities within the file. Which means, yes, you can go edit the darn file after and still be able to change and swap around the supports!


So upshot of today - ALWAYS check the raft has formed properly first. ALWAYS use Save Project when adding supports and wanting to be able to retain the option to edit/change supports later.

You are learning quite well on your own, especially the idiosyncracies of Chitubox. Well done!!

I always save the Chitubox project (if a later minor edit is needed to supports, etc.) and the finished sliced file.

You can also check your other thread about the difference between the raft and the bottom setting I mention.

Makes me want to save up for a resin printer.

Also, As I am not one to actually read everything written , I'd just like to say keep the misprints and mount them on a terrain piece wall with a greenstuff coat or something thrown over the bad parts

Adventures Log Hippo-horses


I've been recently trying to learn more about supports and supporting models in the best way to preserve detail on the model, whilst at the same time ensuring that the model prints well. So I decided to try this on a thin light model with lots of fine detailed arms and limbs - enter the Hippocampus by My Mini Mayhem
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-hippocampus-144804

First I should note that I'm attempting to follow the advice by 3D Printing Pro over on Youtube who has a fantastic selection of videos on all aspects of 3D printing from making supports, to products and all the rest. A few of the videos I've learned and am attempting to put into practice are noted below:

Support Fans
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1uiUTl6a3E

Overall Support settings and tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIFRpG5V5vQ

Light-Medium-Heavy and when to use them
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRcBchaWfaU


So what's my results been? Well my first attempt was a disaster. Too keen on adjusting and using smaller contacts to save on damage to the model and I got nothing but an arm or so and the rest failed. So I went back and added more supports. One thing I started trying was when I had a fan of supports over an area I started making one pillar thicker than the others by a bit. This would be the one connecting to a lower point or the one I felt was going to have the most weight. This seemed to make a difference and my second printing was good enough to process and take some shots of. It's not yet cured (that's for tomorrow*

For reference my settings are as follows:


The Model


The Supports


So it seems there's been an overall success in many areas, but there's a few things to note. I've had failures on some of the fans where the part has broken away. It's hard to tell when this break has happened, but I believe a few are before the model leaves the machine, which is not ideal as even if the thicker lower support held, it means my fan isn't doing its job well enough.
In addition the head has been a disaster which has then had a ripple effect all the way up into the shoulder region. I've shown a few closer shots of the supports I had around the head, but its clear that even the very start of those supports is failing me and not supporting the model in the least.
Indeed the head has broken away near the nose formation and remained on the board for some time messing things up before finally detaching later, but causing a mess to the shoulder region. I reckon if I can support the muzzle and head region more so it should resolve matters.

In the cleanup though I'm impressed with these new settings that he suggests, the thicker trunk of the supports and the use of fans means less multitude of supports in a grid going up to the model, indeed the trunks are showing to hold very nicely. The fans and smaller contact areas (when they work) are very easy to clean off and most break very easily with the stubs remaining being removed with a little rub of even a gloved finger. What's failing me is the thickness and contact with the model and there I've likely been far too conservative in a bid to try and protect detail on the model itself. Considering that the model is all thin parts and quite fine detail I suspect that's made me even more focused on trying to protect that detail. I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can improve upon things, overall I'm clearly making the right steps I just need to refine things a little more.




*my cheap curing light is, well, cheap and takes hours to cure properly; though the little revolving solar powered table works well!

Adventures Log Hippo-horses part 2


SUCCESS!
Increasing the diameters of the contact points a little and adding a few more fan connection points has yielded success!
Marred a little by my inexperience at getting things off supports and snapping one fin end a bit, but overall the supports have worked as I'd hoped! It wasn't a huge change from the last set of supports I used, just easing off the dial when it came to making the contact points smaller and adding a few more ends to the fans. I'm very pleased with these changes and feel like I've really started to learn something of supports and different ways to use them as well as respecting the contact point far more so in terms of trying to reduce damage to the model and provide better overall support. I still strongly recommend watching the videos in my previous post if you want the same reference/source that I used for making my adjustments.

Here you can see the shots of the model, clearly showing that not only has the head fully formed this time, but also that the support fans on the limbs haven't broken away even after some swirling in the alcohol. Again this was just increasing diameters by a single click on the dial in most cases as well as adding a few more here and there. Interestingly there was a failure on one of the support columns. Not sure why that happened, however the use of thicker columns and of having as many as possible connect together means that even though the base failed to create, it did form later on from one of the others and, thankfully, was strong enough that once it got going and kept going it was able to support the fin end which was its purpose.
Also the eagle eyed might notice that a hair has wound its way into the assembly at some stage.... pets are not helpful at times!




Notably if you look at the head, which was the disaster area last time, you can see that I've increased support all along the face as well as added a second heavy support right at the lower region of the crest. Increased support there has allowed it to remain on the build plate the entire time and let the head cast up well.




Whilst I could return and attempt another print of this model to get that one fin that was damaged back, I'm content to leave as is right now and move forward with casting something else before I end up with a small army of hoppocampus! I'd love to cast something really big, but I think I'll stick to smaller things just for now (or at least models that come in smaller parts). I think refining my support game on smaller things with lots of detail will at least give me a greater chance of success with a big model when far more time and resin is on the line.

Adventures Log - monstrous hybrids

Behold what you get when you cross a mandrill, a scorpion and a, bat/flying squirrel?

The MANDRILCORE!



This model is a March release on the Dragon Trappres Lodge Patreon https://www.patreon.com/dragontrapperslodge (so you can get one right now as well as a dragon and other critters)
I have to say this has some very good supports, small and peel off very easily. The detail is fantastic, the spines are so sharp once cured. This is just what I wanted from the 3D printer. High detail, fine sculpts of models that are fantastical, but which I know that I'd never buy as a model since I'd always pass them over for something "proper" for one of my armies instead.
Heck just look at the mouth - the teeth are modelled and not just sharp spikes, the plate is there, the tongue, gah its wonderful!

Wow, that is seriously impressive 3d print! The bumps on the scorpion tail would be lost in even more commercial casts. I don't see any printing lines. It's seriously professional level print!

Aye its ability to capture textures and details like those fine bumps is way beyond what I'd hoped. Plus the spines are very strong considering their thickness. Certainly strong enough to be durable for gaming purposes.

Adventures Log -supporting the winter chill



A few more off the build plate and a few failures including some on the plate from supports made by others with good success rates, which suggests there's some potential local issues for me. Right now the big one is temperature, with the days chillier and the evenings and nights colder and me living in an old house with no real insulation (take the thatch off and old houses lose a lot of their insulation, especially in the attic). This is contributing to some interesting problems including issues adhering to the build plate itself (increased exposure time by a few seconds) and also potentially causing an issue with resin flow not working correctly which led to a huge failure of almost all the supports not printing - resolved by raising the lift height to 7mm, which I assume just gives things enough time to properly settle. However it might also have been due to lift from the FEP not fully separating from the resin until a slight increase in height. This was on a fairly full plate whilst my previous prints were often just one model and thus not taking up a huge amount of room.



On top of that I've been steadily trying to learn supports as best I can and, after dipping into the crazy world of discord 3D printing chats, I've also shifted over from Chitu to Lychee. Lychee offering far more control over the supports and their positioning, but also a better island detection system and far far far better camera (Chitu's is very rough and ready and cna take an age to get into the right position). My contact points have also got a little smaller in general, which seems to work well provided I can get a proper anchoring point established (which might be being impacted by the current temperature issues).



So lets have a look at a few:

First a Cheetah from Labradorite Wolf
https://www.patreon.com/labradoritewolf
https://www.myminifactory.com/users/LabradoriteWolf

No pre-supports on this one so a nice one to practice supporting on. It's also a more basic shape than some of the fantasy critters so a bit easier to work with, yet has some nice fine details to it.



Overall printed very nicely, whilst I could likely have used a few fans instead of so many columns, its held well to the support. There's a few curious areas of uplift off the supports, the tail and the mid belly have both lifted up off the supports there. I'm not sure if this is from when I've got it off the build plate or if its happened part way through printing, though long enough after the rest of the area printed, that its not impacted details or the print itself. The upper thigh also shows some missed layer banding, which is a bit of a shame, though hard to see in the physical print when not viewing up close.


Next up another unsupported, a Drake of Displacement by Lair/Draco Studios.
Part of their Legendary dragons selection, got through a KS https://lair.store/shop/p/20-legendary-dragons/



In the foreground you can see one of the parted tentacles totally failed to print, which I'm putting purely down to me not respecting the suction power of the printer when printing and not having a strong enough lower anchoring point. The flatter palm of the tentacle with the spikes did mostly print and that was a more supported segment. The same issue has arisen for the tail of the beast as well, complete failure to print and given the strip that did print and stuck on later, its again peeled off the supports.

Once off the supports we can see a few more problems



Shoulder region, despite having a heavy anchor failed to print out the actual region around it, clearly need more initial supports before enough material has built up to allow it to pull away on its own. Interesting to note I did use a lot more mediums along one area of the back and it printed well, though had more connection stubs left after when getting the initial contacts broken off. Indeed whilst the cheetah separated very cleanly, the displacer has been far more messy with stubs left on the model.



Ankle [support highlighted] suggests that whilst it had a medium contact to anchor, which worked, the sharper angle of detail away from that point requires a few lighter supports just to get going. Again just like the shoulder above.




[spoiler]

Head I am most impressed with overall as its a higher detail area by far and its printed generally well. Same with the claws on the paws which have also come off well.




In conclusion I think I'm heading in the right direction, but still have a way to go. I think I can cut down on columns themselves and use more broken up fans and such on the model itself to cut down on waste resin from printing supports since I'm clearly getting enough adhesion to the support structure as a whole and the build plate. Where I'm hitting errors seems to be in judging the thickness of the support contact to the model and the clustering of them in the right locations. A few spots clearly need more and whilst the anchoring points show that I do need to use some thicker contacts, the back of the beast also suggests that I might need to use thinner contacts to try and minimise damage. I'm thus thinking that I need to use more medium supports and perhaps reduce them a little from 0.35mm down to say 0.3mm, but make up for that and the anchoring by using more of them across the model. With perhaps some heavies with 0.45 heads for key anchoring points. At least then I'm cutting down the number of thick support locations to clean up and trying to get a greater hold of slightly lighter mediums over the main body of the models.


Part of me really wants to test this same print in warmer conditions though, since as noted at the start, I also had failures on supports made by more experienced support appliers. I'd really like to see if temperature alone was also affecting their supports and perhaps also some of my own, though I would likely try to reduce the studs left on the main body of the displacer beast with some changes there.