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Hi all, new painter here trying to branch away from paint-alongs. I’m trying to paint Lyrior Uthralle like the box cover art. I’m wondering if anyone can help me with the mount. In the art, he’s white with yellows paws, tale, and mane. Can anyone identify the the colors and techniques used for this? I’m thinking the white is the base and the yellow is glazed on followed by a highlight in white.

Very open to any tips for this. Im thinking the yellow is ushabti bone or flayed one. Not sure on the white.

Can you provide image, the white won’t be just white base or primer. You don’t paint white with white that would be too easy

Here is the image from the box

[/img] https://www.games-workshop.com/resources/catalog/product/920x950/99120210031_LRLLyriorUthralleVanariLordRegentLead.jpg

Yeah you generally build up white from another light base, not the other way around. For this I would probably base in a tan/beige colour, then lighten it with white and do multiple heavy passes, increasing the lightness each time, until a smooth light layer is achieved. You can begin some basic transitions at this phase too, around the paws and recesses etc.
Once this is done, take your highlight off white tone and do tidy up with thin layers at precise spots, glazing darker tones into areas as required.

Interesting. Thank you for the advice. The tan base would be the colors that appear on the tail and paws or am I glazing that on top of the white?

The page for this model on the GW website tells you what paints to use for various parts of the models, it’s the technique that’s tricky. Probably the brightest white bits will be standing out because the other white areas are darker. I agree that using tan and sepia colours under your white is probably a good approach but the website does say corax white base.

White is hard watch videos on you tube about how to paint white

Hey Mrfickle, I’m on the site and I see the list of pants under classic but it doesn’t say what goes to what. I also do not see corax white. I’m wondering if I’m missing something.

I know the app has a paint by model, but I don’t see an option for lyrior


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Nvm, found it

Yeah the website isn’t great, normally on the box or in the assembly instructions it points to certain areas and give a recipe but I do think that sometimes the GW paint jobs are down with such expertise to aid the advertising of a mode that they don’t give you the recipe as it’s too complicated. As I said white is hard.

I would be interested to see your results. I try to avoid using white if I can or use apothecary white contrast paint and keep my whites simple

There are two general ways to achieve white - base white, and glaze on the shadows, or base in the mid-tone or dark shadow colour of the white (white can be shaded almost any way, but grey-blue for cold white and cream/buff for warm white are the two most common) and layer/glaze up to lighter areas.

To me that mount looks like it was based in white or cream and then glazed to deepen the shadows. Very time consuming, laborious process. An airbrush would achieve similar transitions partially with far less work, but it's not going to take it all the way. Personally I prefer working with a white base and layering on the shadows, as white is a pain in the butt to get smooth. Don't buy GW white; save yourself a lot of heartache and get a fine art acrylic white or airbrush white (Createx is my personal recommendation.)

Colour-wise, there's at least three. White obviously. A dark grey-brown, most obviously seen in the neck plates, and a warm golden cream. I'd suspect there's also a buff-khaki colour serving for transitions in the neck and belly, and a hint of pink in the ears and muzzle. There's going to be a lot of intermediate mixes between the first three/four to get the gradients.

Wow, that’s overwhelming for a new painter, lol. Guess I have to learn somehow. Thank you for the detailed info.

It's really not that bad - glazing is just layering with thinner, more transparent paint, multiple times over. No individual pass has to be perfect, since they all blend together. Glazing shows up really well over white. Takes very little to tint the surface.

I would suggest working on a white base and darkening down the recesses with a wash/glaze because that's usually easier to get a nice looking result with than the opposite. No harm in trying both though, see what you like. The only real "rule" (and it's more like very strong suggestion unless you have a compelling reason and experience otherwise) is to prime in a light colour if the model is going to be predominantly white-looking. Saves lots of time.

You’ve had some great advice hear but beware, some of the experience painters on dakka say things like it’s not that hard and as a newbie you’re pulling your hair out wondering why it’s not working. That’s not a complaint to anyone, by the way, just what happens when you get so good at something it becomes second nature. This forum has been great for me as I learned to paint and am very grateful for all the help.

Hopefully you have more luck than me. Thinning paints to the correct consistency is something that takes practice and once they are thinned you want the right amount on your brush becuase glazes and washes can be more like coloured water than paint and can be hard to control. There’s a real sweet spot and each paint will need a slightly different amount of thinning.

There is a YouTube channel called hobby cheating by a guy called Vince and he had a whole video dedicated to the different between what we call layers and glazes. He shows you what to expect from your paint when trying to thin it so you know when you’ve thinned it right.

Glazes should to be thinned with added acrylic medium, not just water. Making watery paint will result in much frustration and a poor end result!

When I first started painting, I shaded my whites with inks (ouch, too much contrast and tidepooling) and watered paints (better, but hard to control). It's much easier to use glazes or plain layering to get decent transitions over white. Go slow - shading white is a case of 'less is more'.