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I never used to have this problem, but for the last few months it's been bad. The print is difficult if not entirely impossible to remove from the raft. I toyed with some settings and found out if I print at a lower heat until it's a few layers up from the raft and then switch to "proper" heat, it's... fine? Not perfect, but I can usually pry pieces with small attachment points off without ripping the print itself apart.

For the most part I've switched to avoiding rafts wherever possible, or if I must, printing above the raft so only supports are connected. It's not really sustainable.

Any thoughts on what might be going wrong? Which settings I should fiddle with? Is this a common problem with Adventurer 3 Lites? has my nozzle burned out or something?

Thanks in advance!

I have never used rafts for FDM and have always preferred a brim, usually about 8-10 wide. This gives me enough time to make sure as it goes around the outline that all is levelled (and even adjusting while it is running around), the filament is coming out evenly and this gives a nice adhesion to the bed before the actual printing of the object.

I super hate removing supports from FDM, unless it is a huge part with no small details that will break off. The only thing I can suggest is if all your settings are the same, could it maybe be the filament (even if the same brand) just has a lower melting point so running at your same temp could be just melting it more than usual and it is bonding together too well? I think you are correct and keep your nozzle temp down about 5 degrees and keep it there. I have found running my nozzle at the low temp spectrum of the filament (as long as the filament is still extruding properly) really helps with the 'heat creep' you can get that had caused me numerous jams in the past.

Thanks for the reply! I haven't tried using a brim for models with supports. I might give that a go. Regarding the filament - I always buy the same brand/color (Flashforge Pink) because the few times I went with anything different it was fairly disastrous. I "had" keyed in the settings for Flashforge Pink... not true anymore I guess.

If I reduce nozzle temp by 5 degrees, it makes the connection between model and raft a bit easier to disconnect but I also run into a problem where the feeder "thumps" a lot. Presumably due to not being hot enough to push the amount of filament it wants through at the rate it wants to go. But in general, and mostly based on this, I think you're right that the filament is melting more than usual and causing the bad bond!
Just there doesn't seem to be a balance between "too melty" and "not melty enough" :/

When your feeder thumps, yes it could either be your temp is too low or if it has been running a while you have heat creep - this used to occur to me all the time and would destroy a print hours into its run - very frustrating. Just need to find that sweet spot.

Usually, as long as the first hour or so of printing is flowing good, drop a degree or two as long as still flowing good, down to the filament limit and you should be good. You can test the flow when the nozzle is heated up to temp and just turn your filament feeder and the filament should come out with no issues - unless you have a plug or previous heat creep that plugged it up higher inside the nozzle assembly.