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So as we settle in to our digs in Hyderabad I am thinking of having a gaming table made. Carpentry work is fairly cheap here after all.

Has anyone had a 4'x6' table made or seen good plans? I'm thinking of something fairly simple with a shelf underneath for storage and maybe rims around the side to keep models from falling.

But as I google and brainstorm I thought I'd check on the Dakka hive mind.

This looks real good.

https://www.goonhammer.com/the-fabricator-general-building-a-gaming-table-again/

Remember you need to be able to check lines of sight, so you might not want a typical 'games table' height rim (like in the article).

Also cup holders.

Cup holders at least I can find!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QCX66Z4/?coliid=I2YMLOPNOZBRFG&colid=1AQNEF7RBO6IS&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

There are plans right here to build your own.

DarkSoldier wrote:
There are plans right here to build your own.

Cheers! I should have known I didn't need to look further than Dakka.

I'd add rims to the table, and I like the idea of wheels. I like that a lot.

I've built a few tables over the years and all you really need is:

4'x8' sheet of paint grade 3/4" plywood (I used maple)
6-8 removable, height adjustable legs (IKEA - I used OLOV legs)
Iron-on wooden veneer (for the edges, again, I used maple)

Cut the sheet down to 4x6. Use the scrap lumber to make blocks big enough for the leg plates to attach to, glue the scraps to the bottom (Gorilla Glue) and screw in the leg plates. Attach legs, turn the table right side up and iron on the veneer around the edges, trim with a knife/file, sand the top and edges, varnish the table (Minwax).



Personally I kept mine at 4x8 because I had some scrap plywood already and had room for the full table. Later on I put some IKEA shelves under the table for extra storage. It literally took me and my brother an afternoon, if you don't count letting the varnish dry overnight.

I used wire 4 foot tall NSF-safe wire racks under a 8x4 piece of plywood.

Lots of storage underneath and a more comfortable height.

No carpentry skills or tools needed.

 Easy E wrote:
I used wire 4 foot tall NSF-safe wire racks under a 8x4 piece of plywood.

It works and it's easy, but you have two issues:
1.) Horizontal bumps moving the sheet of plywood (scattering minis) - some high friction rubberized pads might solve that pretty quickly, but there's also the lean-on-the-table causing tilts that can happen.
2.) Splinters from the edge of the plywood sheet (ouch ouch ouch). I can't recommend heat activated veneer enough.

I use two 2´x 4´folding tables myself and just plop a 6´x 4´board on top, Realm Of Battle bits go on top, done. It's not the best solution in terms of robustness, but I don't have space to store a table permanently, folding tables are super easy to tuck away when not in use

This sort of folding tables (meant for garden / outside use I guess? Plastic white surface, metal legs) are very cheap and quite easy to source from furniture shops et al. Think I paid like 20€ (no, think it was 40€..) for each

That reminds me, this summer I should get me a third one, then I can ditch the upper board plate altogether.. It's a bit unwieldy and a hassle to store

It's possible to buy just the folding legs and put them on a piece of plywood. I did build a table years back but gave it away when i moved overseas.

So I guess I can look back a bit to remember what I learned from that. One idea was to put a wheel or two on the side because the sucker was HEAVY. Adding rims so things don't fall off is another lesson. Maybe bins or something handing from the sides.

Oh, If you dont mind the weight and have ample space for a table, a traditional table will probably be a nicer solution, at least in terms of aesthetics

Alas family considerations may require that I at least PRETEND I can take it down any time.

Does it need to be stowed? When I finish moving I will have an 8x4 set up, but I will need to take it down to use the living room for anything else.

Mine is dead simple - 3 folding trestle legs (nice rubber pads on top to ensure nothing moves), 8x4 MDF board on top. Have the sideboard space is easier than shelves underneath. Painted blue for naval games, but otherwise neoprene mats for the base colours. Will probably also get a 6x4 board to lean against wall as an option.

I do have this though for boardgame nights
https://www.game.co.uk/en/game-night-table-2907889


But when I was in Dhaka it was just a 6x4 table topper with a few blocks underneath to ensure it wouldn't move when put on top of a dinning table. Take it off, lean it against wall. Again MDF, but not too thick so I could lift it easily myself.

I went lazy and didn’t build. 8 white 2x2 cheap tables and legs from ikea. 6 in a 2 x 3 block. 2 side tables for figures and gubbins. I have a citadel table to out on it or textured 6 x 2 ply boards (3 boards, 6 surfaces, 2 green, 2 grey, 2 sand)

 John Prins wrote:

 Easy E wrote:
I used wire 4 foot tall NSF-safe wire racks under a 8x4 piece of plywood.

It works and it's easy, but you have two issues:
1.) Horizontal bumps moving the sheet of plywood (scattering minis) - some high friction rubberized pads might solve that pretty quickly, but there's also the lean-on-the-table causing tilts that can happen.
2.) Splinters from the edge of the plywood sheet (ouch ouch ouch). I can't recommend heat activated veneer enough.

Huh, never had either problem.

1. The racks have rubberized "grips" on the top of each pole/leg so that seems to work.

2. Since I use a cloth mat for table cover, it drapes over the edges and softens them.

As for the tabletop flipping up, I must be lucky on that count so far! I could see that happening easily.

It also doesn't have cool features like dice rolling pits or cup holders. Cup holders I will have to look into!

If your wire racks are anything like mine, behind the rubber or plastic 'caps' or 'grips' on top is a threaded hole.

It shouldn't be hard to find the right size bolt to fit that threaded hole and attach the board to the racks securely that way.

Granted, I don't use mine for a game table...

More of an industrialized solution for the shop, but I found that a piece of ply wood 12mm thick works well at that size when tossed on top of the 6 foot folding table. Throw a couple boards on either side underneath and it can latch pretty well, as well as give you the option to add "hooks" for further anti tipping protection.

For cupholders and the like you can add blocks under the plywood to latch onto from the side.

Though really the main reason I went with this is that it's easy to swap between that and the table without the board on top so it can be used for other games more easily when needed.