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Been there. I can empathize.

I can see my desk again!

Assembly of the Deimos' almost complete. Most of the fiddly bits I'll leave off during painting I think, just to make my life easier. The bolters, front rakes, the little exhaust mushrooms on the Vindi, the shield of the vindicator gun, etc, are currently not glued on yet.
So are the tracks. But when took the sprues in my hand to cut 'm loose and glue them on, I stayed my hand. I suddenly remembered that back when I was assembling the Spartan's metal replacement tracks, I found out that T-55 metal tracks in 1/35 should fit Rhino's perfectly. So I guess I'll put the assembly on hold and order some Friulmodel tracks from their webshop.

So the wise thing would be to continue on the tactical squad. Or do I listen to the siren's song of Miss Sidetrack and start assembling a FW techmarine? All those vehicles and dreads sure need a cogboy, don't ya think?

Looking great. Love the command rhino variant. Yeah... techmarine is definitely in order.

Looks nice Meph. I'm interested to see how the alt tracks fit and look. I say go ahead with the techmarine

Love the chunky look of the rhinos, looking good.

Cheers, guys.

And lol, the side track just got bigger. So I've got the MKIV Forgeworld techmarine lying on my desk. And I just remembered I had ordered the GW techmarine (servo harness & servitors) a while back from my local game shop, so that should probably have arrived by now. Should give them a call tomorrow.

And my bitzbox is tempting me to kitbash a techmarine with jump pack as well.



Oh! Oh! Oh! Brain fart! And I should probably dig through my stored boxes of ancient miniatures. I'm pretty sure I should still have a metal techmarine with jump pack from the 3rd or 4th edition command squad with jump packs.


Bahahah!

Don't remember a Tech Marine with a Jump pack back then.. Jog my memory with a pic please.

Haven't found it yet in my boxes, but it is this model. In metal even.

From google:
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7101/7355537100_707d440d45.jpg
http://thumbs3.picclick.com/d/l400/pict/371724429802_/Warhammer-40K-Blood-Angel-Space-Marine-Assault-Techmarine.jpg

Prepped and ready to go!


The GW techmarine is soaking and about to be scrubbed. And I must say, their Failcast/Finecrap stuff definitely got better. Not a single bubble, not a single deformed piece, not even a single bent straight piece. They got their act together it seems.

And kitbash techie is still waiting for some ordered parts.

Also, the Friulmodel metal tracks are on their way from Hungary to Belgium, yay!

I really love the look of this sculpt. Looking forward to seeing it 'Meph'd'

Does look like a really nice figure, can't wait to see it painted.

Cheers, guys!

The reddening has begun!


At first I thought about maybe making the lower jaw black on the helmet, but it might make the rest of the helmet appear a bit too slim and detached. Making it solid red will give it a nice beefy look.

The reddening continues...

-Base coat (50/50 dark red and medium red) (Man, those new GW colours names just do not stick in my mind. If someone is interested in them, I'll gladly write 'm down correctly though)
-Dark red wash
-Medium red drybrush
-light red drybrush
-light red + flat orange drybrush
-flat orange drybrush
-flat orange +Ice Yellow (Vallejo colour) drybrush
-Ice Yellow drybrush

Now the model is drying so I can apply another dark red wash and a red glaze, after which the highlights will need some touching up again.



And I found THE perfect re-use for a leftover piece of LED strip it's just perfect lighting wrapped around the light tent like that.


.

Very cool.. thanks for the recipe.

Anytime!

The reddening and blackening complete!
In the end I gave the model a red glaze, a very slight touch-up with ice yellow on certain edges.
And then did ànother red glaze and ice yellow touch-up to get the tone of the red just right and still have some light highlights.

[EDIT] Oh, and the red got a coat of Klear before doing the black. Best to protect those subtle drybrushed gradients.

Just beautiful Meph. Your reds are legendary.

Thanks, mate! The glazes really do the trick to add some depth, really. Highlighted red can look flat so easily.

Today I've started work on the secondary colours. The bronze/gold base colour has been applied and their wash&rub of Smokey Ink (Vallejo), and the piping has had their base coat and light drybrush. The rest of the metalics and detail come after the gold has been done, as the golden drybrush highlights can affect some adjacent areas.

I've also had a nice little feth up with the axe. The head just snapped clean off, and damn, that haft is thinner than the tiniest drill bit I have so I had no choice but to brace it externally. And since my greenstuff-fu is abysmal i just added three little balls less than a mm in diameter. I'll just paint those up in copper, and the copper wire in steel. once that's fully cured I can continue.




Oh, and look what I scrounged up from a box, The Crow! I promptly cut off it's base tab and intend to mount it on a nice little lathe'd round wooden base I also dug up.



And finally the clip-on Macro x20 lens I bought for my phone. It was a nice deal from Black Eye (the brand) and came in a double box together with a wide angle lens. I must say I was quite amazed when I first tried it out. For a little clip on thingie, those lenzes work perfect. Behold! All my painting errors in all glorious, shameless detail that should never be seen! They weren't kidding when they printed 'Macro' on the side of that lens...




And a high res gallery for the macro shots: http://imgur.com/a/cnR5u



Olé! *clap*clap*

Wow .. that's close up.

Too bad on the axe .. it is actually a cool design. I'm sure you'll make it work.

Nice... but no depth-of-field. You need a little camera tri-pod and to fiddle with your camera settings so it'll take long-exposure shots & give you enough depth-of-field so that the photos you post will actually be useful.

Cheers fellas!

Actually the brace i put on the back of the axe doesn't look half bad, you barely even notice it if you don't know it's there.

And yeah, that macro lens was just to try it out, that in no way useful to photograph minis, seeing as you need to hold your phone 1cm away from the model... Anyway, it was more for the wide angle lens that I bought that lens pack. The macro can be fun now and then, but the wide angle lens is a looot more useful. My regular mini photos I take with my digital camera on a little tripod (as seen in previous photos)

Aaan, updates! Yet again.

Secondary colours almost complete. Some stuff needs a little bit of tweaking to clean up or smooth out.
I'm not too sure about the axe's smile. I wanted to do the pale yellowish metal I used for most my power weapons throughout the army, but I wanted to add some little lightning streaks and heat discolouration. The idea was that the powerfield slowly left its marks on the blade over the years. Maybe I need to give it a light metalic glaze to soften the effect, dunno... Perhaps the photos make the effect a little bit harsher than it is IRL.

Anyway, decals are on, so once the little cleanups are done, it's time to seal the model and apply the weathering!



Onwards and upwards!

First bit of sponge/foam weathering done and the model's been assembled so I can move on to oil paints. I'll probably clean up some small area's here and there beforehand. Funny how they only pop up once you've taken photos... I've noticed a small spot on his left shoulder, the barrel of his pistol needs a little more definition, and the little wing on his chest has become a bit too unclear thanks to a runaway foam stab.
Oh, and of course he's a way too shiny at the moment for really decent photos as he already received the Klear coat in preparation of the oil wash.

Whaddayathink?

I think he looks great. Your weathering makes me wonder about a long-term internal debate that I've been having. What color is ceramite? Is it metallic? Kind of neutral buff color? Have never been sure what "chipping" should look like at it's deepest level (i.e. once you get beyond the outer coating of the armor).

Yeah, that's a thought that pops in my head as well now and then. Ceramite does convey it is not metal per se but more a ceramic-alloy composite. And all cut-out artwork out there shows a mutli-layered construction. I think the best visual reference we could hope for is a cut-through photo of modern day composite tank armour. Too bad that stuff is highly classified... :(

Closest I found is this: https://www.quora.com/Tanks-armored-combat-vehicles-Why-does-the-Leopard-2-A1-A4-variants-have-vertical-armour-plates-on-the-front-of-its-turret

And this

http://www.elec-intro.com/cms/plus/view.php?aid=8952
Which actually looks quite metalic.

Interesting stuff, thanks Meph.

"...nano-crystalline steel used in Leopard 2 Revolution..." - from the first article.

Pretty damn sci-fi sounding, innit? But then again, we're living in the era where we have nerve- and mind controlled prostethics, can make the blind see (albeit low res), the deaf hear again, and our computer chips pathways are measured in nanometers.

Truth.

So here 'e is, after an oil wash and a night's wait. Normally I tend to go in for cleanups when the wash is touch-dry but not cured yet, say half an hour, an hour after applying the wash. Sometimes the wash pools a bit too much here and there, or a flat surface has a bit too much on it. But yesterday was a rather busy day so I kinda forgot to do that. After a night's drying, you can still go in and correct stuff, using a cotton stick or brush damp with odourless turpentine, but you'll have to rub a bit harder and making very smooth feathered transitions is a little bit harder. Luckily this model needed no cleanup as far as I can see. I'll scrutinize it a bit more before sealing it in with another coat of clear, but it seems good to go.
Next up, I think I'll redefine some small details with a fine black outline and then apply some oil and grease stains here and there.

Really like him. I have the same figure for my AL army. I particularly like to touch of green. Weathering looks spot on; he does look like he has gotten stuck in for sure.