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How do you base yours? I wanted a small footprint so they
could connect to each other so my idea was to use criss-crossing
corrugated cardboard. Any other ideas?

Here are some pics to see if it helps.







The figures are there for scale.

Now my concern is their bases touch the ground in minimal fashions. So how do I glue
such a construct to cardboard? Since it's plastic would styrene be a better option?

Thanks in advance.

I've built two buildings (a fort and a pillbox thing) and used some styrene to base the larger one, and a CD to base the smaller one. However, the ones I built were substantially more stable (walls and corners on the bottom, etc.

Why not try masonite or 1/4 in ply wood. You could also use WFB movement trays, just remove the edges.

-Jmz

I hadn't thought of CDs. I do just so happen to have a few AOL
CDs and CDs for programs I'll nevere use again...

I suppose putty and zap gap might do the trick.

Masonite....not quite sure what that it is or how to cut it?

Movement trays are a pretty good idea as well...

Aren't movement trays just sheet styrene?

I built a bunch of the platformer and hexagon stuff for playing Necromunda. Once I glued and painted it, it has been more than sturdy enough for gaming, even when I had a Necromunda event at my house with about 8 players over the couse of about 10 hours.

Use plasticard and polystyrene cement.

They make a super-hardcore polystyrene cement called Poly-Zap; it's used for gluing lexan. I used it for my SST models, which are cast out of some super-hard ABS plastic and won't stay together with normal polystyrene cement.

If it can glue lexan, I'm sure it can do the job on these.

Don't feel bad about paying out for the lexan either. My motto is; build it once, and build it properly.

Done properly, your terrain will last you for years.

Do it right the first time.

--Chris
www.chrisvalera.com

Posted By malfred on 07/12/2006 12:28 PM
I wanted a small footprint so they
could connect to each other

Masonite is called MDF in the UK. GW staff often use it to base their terrain. I've seen it used a dozen times. It's both cheap and durable. Perfect for the job. Just use the minimum size possible. Good luck! Playa

I'm just curious about a few things with your terrain. Why are you using so little support for your Platformer stuff? Also, with the abililty to assemble/disassemble being one of the biggest advantages, why are you making static scenery? All my Platformer sits unassembled in a box until I need it for a game. As to the minimal support, I've seen a lot of people who complain about Platformer being unstable and in nearly every instance it's because they used too little or misplaced support for their "platform". Is there a specific reason you need to do it this way?

Breotan: Just trying to make the most out of the box. I bought a big set
for my next project and that one will be self-supporting.

I do not want to make them assemble before you play. I'd prefer to have
them ready to go but rearrangeable in terms of what connects to what. The
last thing I want to do when I've made time to go game somewhere is to
spend a lot of extra time assembling miniatures (I don't game much).

Okay. Was just curious. For me, space is an issue so I have very little actual pre-built terrain around.

"Use plasticard and polystyrene cement.

They make a super-hardcore polystyrene cement called Poly-Zap; it's used for gluing lexan. I used it for my SST models, which are cast out of some super-hard ABS plastic and won't stay together with normal polystyrene cement.

If it can glue lexan, I'm sure it can do the job on these.

Don't feel bad about paying out for the lexan either. My motto is; build it once, and build it properly.

Done properly, your terrain will last you for years.

Do it right the first time."

For future reference,  most cements are not formulated for multiple kinds of plastic - which is why your polystyrene cement did not work on ABS.  Likewise a glue or cement formulated for Lexan (a tradename for polycarbonate) is not guaranteed to bond to polystyrene.   The best advice is to identify what materials you are trying to bond and use a bonding agent compatible with both materials.  That being said Poly-Zap is indeed compatible with both, though I doubt it is any stronger for bonding styrene to styrene than any other modeling cement.   

Faller plastic cement from Germany worked great when I glued my Hexiformer and Platformer stuff.

What about that Testor's glue in a squeeze bottle? (I happen to have
some lying around).

I finally found a railroad/military kit store. It's like the railroad hobbyist's version
of the used bookstore: loud air conditioner, eccentric owner, trains to the
ceiling.