Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

my goodness my goodness...... there are no words just words for my disbeleif

BASE:
Does it say anywhere that the base has to be circular??? could you not just have an odd shaped base - ie. a circle with an extension on the back for the foot print?

Otherwise - i would imagine this walker is a damned heavy piece of machinery that would leave huge cracks and maybe light craters and whatnot in the street - make the edges all cracked and raised - that explains/hides it when you put it back in the diorama

LED:
personally i think green might like cool inside the grotpit - and make that one the one that flickers - for flickering you get something called a "555 timer" as far as i can remember from elec. shop 12 years ago. Although that might only give regular timed pulses as opposed to flickering - i have a friend who does electronics - will ask him to draw a diagram for you and post it asap. yellow eyes - i like that

While I consult the more electrically-minded people that are helping me do the LEDs, I figured I'd move along to the other arm and get it done as I haven't made much progress with this recently. I hate continually trying to redesign this thing, as it's had me in a rut for a while, but I think I finally broke out of it and came up with a decent plan. It deviates slightly from the original concept art, but I think it's suitable.





You'll notice a few things:

The circular saw was replaced with the equivalent of an enlarged ork chainsword. I like this option better - just as rippy, in my opinion, but less awkward-looking. Also, I think I'll be ditching the grot idea for the arm - just no room, really, as I'd prefer to have hydraulics there to 'support' the weight of the heavier gun arm, as it were. You'll notice this also has more hydraulics than the other arm - this was to suggest that the weight of the weapon arm is a lot heavier than the wrecka claw, and that it needed additional support.

I'll be chaining the two weapon barrels together at the end, as well.

Overall, I think I'll have a good deal of success with this design, and I'm getting started on it at the moment. I may revise the chamber/ammo feed a little bit for the top Kannon, but the rest of it is good enough to start building. Off I go!

nice, i think it would look cool if you had a huge shell housing box on the back of the arm - counter weights it, and you could have the top shell exposed - even show the hydraulic loading arm pushing a shell forward...

about the flickering light - my electronics supa whizz buddy says that its not at all easy to get it to flicker like a busted light - you will need a micro-controller and set it to turn on and off at intervals like 1ms, .75ms etc etc - but that after a couple of flickers you will see the pattern - unless you add in a few MC's on your board all to go on at different times - but once again eventually a pattern will emerge.

Not quite random but have you considered the following for lighting:

ebay link Kite Lights

I think they would work quite well, they have single colour flashing types and two colour types.

They have the advantage of being magnetic and changeable...and cheap...

 

.. Wow. Those are really great, actually. I think I'm going to buy a few of those. Great find!

Only a tiny bit done on the gun arm, but I like posting my W.I.P. pictures anyway as feedback is always useful. The rippa is lengthened to a proper bayonet-esque length on the barrels, as a few insightful individuals have been nice enough to point out to me that if the gargant swings the arm down, more likely than not with the shorter rippa they'd be hitting stuff with the gun barrels. I need to build the boxy engine part for the rippa and attach it and then start working on surface details and ammo feeds. The two wrapped metal bands around the barrels look better than I thought they would initially - better than the chains did, anyhow. I'll probably drop two small armor support plates on either side from the bands to the exterior housing of the rippa just for some extra apparent support.

On the squashed grot note, why not just have him squished on the bottom of the raised foot? Then you can have a gameable base and there'll be some more interest on the foot. Not that it isn't chuffing amazing already, mind you!

Posted By SuperJohn on 06/23/2006 4:09 PM
On the squashed grot note, why not just have him squished on the bottom of the raised foot? Then you can have a gameable base and there'll be some more interest on the foot. Not that it isn't chuffing amazing already, mind you!

Brilliant!

The reason I was thinking of putting the flattened grot in the footprint is a two-parter - I was going to get some triangular rods of plastic and cut them to add a 'tread' in the form of lines to the bottom of the feet... but because of the surface that would create I couldn't really put a corpse on the bottom (especially not the grot, who has a flat back). Instead what I was thinking of doing was on the diorama base getting some greenstuff, pressing the foot in so it makes a footprint and tread impression, and then pushing the grot into that so that it would form around his body and he'd look like he had been flattened - I hope that makes sense.

Firstly, I am in awe of this project, it is wonderfully done! I haven't commented until now, because I didn't have anythin to say of than a fanboy-ish 'drool'

About the LEDs, I see you got leads for the LED kits, for colours, I'd suggest a dull orange background in the eyes, and bright yellow approximately nnehind where pupils could be.

For the grot-pit, my suggestion is
1 red and one white light, flashing, at alternating intervals, to look like red alert, but notgo pitch-black when the red flashes off.

-=Gaaargh=-

WOW.........I am speechless.......Amazing Work!!!

These might help

http://www.timpdon.co.uk/weldarc.htm
http://www.timpdon.co.uk/fireglow.htm

if you try these let me know if they're cool

by the way this thing is so inspiring, I'm gonna get my Scratch Warboss out and finish him.

Coming along. I'm not sure if I like the hydraulics joint on the inner-arm towards the top barrel's loading chamber, but I'll work around it for now. I'm also deliberating the drop-down clip system - I think I'll do it, but I don't want it sticking out too much, so the magazine'll probably only hold 3-4 shells anyway.

It still needs armor-plating and riveting and a bit more detail all over, but it's shaping up, at least.

I dont want to sound like a jerk...but I hope you can paint this as well as it deserves. If not I bet someone would probably volunteer to paint it just for the notariety and to show "off". This is easily a G Demon large Model "winner" if done right.

I'm not going to let anyone else paint it, as to be a competetive model to begin with all the work has to be done by one individual. I'll just take my time with it.

Couldn't help myself, so I went ahead and attached the arm with a magnet just to see how it looked.

Really cool!! So suitably orky!

As usual, I'm having some summer related reasons for not being active on the hobby front, but this might be the needed inspiration to get the armies geared up for Medusa.

That looks trick as *@#$

Can I have it?

love the use of legos man! you have inspired me to order some plasticard off ebay. now i just need to sit up and stop drooling so i can ou tit to good use!

"put it" i ment

I worked a little bit on the ammo feed mechanism for the large barreled gun earlier, but I'm not sure if I like it. It works, yes, and it shows the shells off, but not in a proper manner, I think - the side profile leaves something to be desired. I'm not sure what I should do with it, though. I should mention that the clip and the shells are not glued in at all at the moment and can be removed and modified without any real trouble, so any advice would be appreciated. I'm thinking to begin with I'm going to shave a little bit off the top of the clip housing so that the top shell's more exposed and the clip itself doesn't go so high...

Well the most obvious fix for the clip would be to cut out portions of the sides, making it more like the shells run down on guide rails. Then you could see the sides of the shells along with the fronts.

If you felt really ambitious, you could try to cut an "x" pattern into the sides of the ammo feed. Then just add a bunch of rivets for the proper orky feel.  To do this, just cut 4 small triangles out of each side, if you're catching my drift.

I agree with KiMonarrez; some sort of open-sided ammo feed will show off the shells better, even if it does make less sense militarily - but hey, when could an ork ever resist the urge to show off his shiny mek stuff to impress all da boyz?

It looks a little messy, but mostly it's the marker that got smudged that does it The shells are a little crooked, too, but they're not glued in yet, though the clip itself is.

I think this works.

yay.ammo feeds

i think the gun should be made a tad wider to 'balance' the whole thing out.Or a large underslung spinning ammo chain (like on the ogryns),fed into the gun.But whatever,it looks great like it is.

Just wondering,but are you going to add extra clips that weakling grots carry along the ground for the arm?
Cause that would look great on a base.(make the squished grot have a flattened flip next to him )

Wow, thats quite incrediable. Not only a cool gargant but one in a dynamic pose.  I like everything you've done with it so far.. What else is there to say other then keep up the awesome work.

It looks excellent.  Simply fantastic work through and through.

 

As for the cannon, I'd agree that the second version of the ammo clip is much better.  Don't forget an ejection port for the shell casings!

Good work. Very good work. I agree w/ bob, the second version w/ the cutout looks awesome.

Things left to do to this arm:

- Add stray armor plating to the upper arm and rivets all over.
- Add mechanical cabling going from the elbow area, as well as the back of the rippa (unfortunately, I'm all out of lego cabling, so I'm going to have to make a substitute from wire. )
- Add detail to the gun area where it faces the torso (inner arm).
- Add a belt of ammunition that dangles for the machinegun ammunition port. I'm not sure how I'm going to make this, yet, but I'll keep thinking about it for now - I think I'll end up cutting some plastic tubing down into 'shells', greenstuffing tips onto them, and using some floss or something that I coat in glue as the binding for it so that the belt is still flexible and movable - that way I can hang it correctly.

I meshed in the sides of the ammo clip just because I didn't like having the sides completely open. The top shell is showing a little more than I'd like, but they're all still removable at the moment so I will probably shave the 3rd shell down flat a little bit on one side so that all the shells shift down a little bit. I thought about extending the clip's size, but really, it's more of a slot where ammunition gets jammed, and logistically I don't want to bother with worrying about how many shots that things gets off anyway. I also don't want it going much more vertical than it is now because any higher and it'd look awkward, in my opinion.

I haven't had as much time as I'd like to work on this recently, but with my girlfriend going to a yankee game tomorrow with her sister and me all alone at home, I'll have plenty of working time.