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We're already planning to build a board and two forces. Thanks for the idea. Its just too awesome,

xSPYXEx wrote:I need to try this. For too long have I been forced to play Magic at lunch with my friends. Now I'll be able to bring all my Warhammer stuff to school!

I know what you're talking about, and I can only agree with you!

Mywik wrote:We're already planning to build a board and two forces. Thanks for the idea. Its just too awesome,

And you're welcome, sir. Keep me updated.

Okay, this evening I shall be ordering a space marine battle company and some rhinos, along with some superglue and a fine-detail paintbrush
It should arrive by thursday, possibly wednesday. When I get them, I'm gonna get some pictures of putting them together, and of my terrible paintjob.
After that will be playtesting with half of the force against the other half

Great! Remember to use magnets and metallic board, or the game will be unplayable. I would also suggest only a few models for the first playtest (around 500pt).

Don't worry about the paintjob. Simple basecoat, then main color, then dark wash (for the details), then details and highlight. Experiment a bit and you'll soon find you own way. ;-)

 Dirinel wrote:
Great! Remember to use magnets and metallic board, or the game will be unplayable. I would also suggest only a few models for the first playtest (around 500pt).

Don't worry about the paintjob. Simple basecoat, then main color, then dark wash (for the details), then details and highlight. Experiment a bit and you'll soon find you own way. ;-)

Good points there

With that in mind, to test everything out I'll give both sides the following:

5 man assault squad
5 man devastator squad w/lascannons (you'll see how I do that when I'm done )
10 man tactical w/ rhino
10 man tactical w/ rhino

And possibly a captain proxy.

Selym wrote:

 Dirinel wrote:
Great! Remember to use magnets and metallic board, or the game will be unplayable. I would also suggest only a few models for the first playtest (around 500pt).

Don't worry about the paintjob. Simple basecoat, then main color, then dark wash (for the details), then details and highlight. Experiment a bit and you'll soon find you own way. ;-)

Good points there

With that in mind, to test everything out I'll give both sides the following:

5 man assault squad
5 man devastator squad w/lascannons (you'll see how I do that when I'm done )
10 man tactical w/ rhino
10 man tactical w/ rhino

And possibly a captain proxy.

Sounds like a good start! I personally prefer to field Librarians as opposed to Captains, but I guess it alsodepends on personal taste/strategy

 Dirinel wrote:

Selym wrote:

 Dirinel wrote:
Great! Remember to use magnets and metallic board, or the game will be unplayable. I would also suggest only a few models for the first playtest (around 500pt).

Don't worry about the paintjob. Simple basecoat, then main color, then dark wash (for the details), then details and highlight. Experiment a bit and you'll soon find you own way. ;-)

Good points there

With that in mind, to test everything out I'll give both sides the following:

5 man assault squad
5 man devastator squad w/lascannons (you'll see how I do that when I'm done )
10 man tactical w/ rhino
10 man tactical w/ rhino

And possibly a captain proxy.

Sounds like a good start! I personally prefer to field Librarians as opposed to Captains, but I guess it alsodepends on personal taste/strategy

The captain is just the easiest to field with a new way of playing, as it uses the fewest rules
That, and I wanted to kill a highly experienced and respected commander


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Huh.. I've been doing a few calculations, and I have an idea...
The standard unit in the 28mm Wh40k game is 6". Converting this proportionately to the 6mm scale, the standard unit is 32.004mm, which is rather unwieldy.
I therefore propose making the standard unit 35mm, or 3.5cm to make calculations much simpler.

Giving us the following:

1"= 5.8333mm = 0.58333cm
3" = 17.5mm = 1.75cm [This one is awkward, but it's in rare useage in the game]
6" = 35mm = 3.5cm
12" = 70mm = 7cm
18" = 105mm = 10.5cm
24" = 140 mm = 14cm
36" = 175mm = 17.5cm
48" = 210mm = 21cm

Which I find to be much simpler to use than the rather unwieldy calculation of:

1" = 5.333mm = 0.5333cm
3" = 16mm = 1.6cm
6" = 32mm = 3.2cm
12" = 64mm = 6.4cm
18" = 96mm = 9.6cm
24" = 128 mm = 12.8cm
36" = 160mm = 16cm
48" = 192mm = 19.2cm

The reasons for this is that measuring in multiples of 5 is much easier on a base ten system (all of our mathematics and metric measurements) than measuring in multiples of 8.

When we started Pocket the problem of the scale was clearly the most important, so we discussed it a lot. I would be insincere if I was to say that we did not consider the use of "artificial" measurements to make everything easier.
I remember one person even came up with the idea of simply assuming that 1" is 1cm, and play using 6mm miniatures.
We discarded it for two reasons, but one being the most important:

the more difference between the scale of the models and the scale of their movements, the larger is the impact of the model size on the gamplay. In the scaling we report on the website, everything keeps the right scale assumed by the rulebook, thus there is no change whatsoever on the gameplay.

But let's take the extreme case of 1cm = 1"
Your SM in a unit will be in choerency if they are within 2cm of at least another SM; this means that you can actually put a Rhino (1.5cm long) between two Space Marine in the same unit, and the unit wtill retain its coherency. A bit weird.
If you try you will see that more and more bizarre situations come up, involving range of weapons, radius of templates, cover and so on.

In your scaling system you have a smaller degree of the same effect, since all the distances are slightly increased (the effect is more sensible on longer distances)

This was the math talk. Now the gamer's talk:
-as long as it works for your gaming group, do it!
There are a large number of things that should be re-scaled to make the game work properly again, but as long as no one really cares about precision, I don't see much of a problem with your calculations.

Oh, and the second reason for the scaling system we chose is that, regardless of the ankwardness of the numbers, no one really cares about it, if you have a pre-made meters and templates like the ones at this webpage!
https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/playing/rescale-the-game

Not to mention the fact that also the base size of all the infantry miniatures, as well as their height, is choerent with the standard Wharamme 40K system.

PS: I think I should write a bit about this topic on the same page, just to let everyone know about it. Thanks for the idea!

The game is very close to one quarter the scale. that would make the unit conversions very easy. just run everything at 25%

a 6" movement would be an inch and a half. 2" coherency would be half an inch and so on and so on.

you could also use velcro and felt for a gaming area.

if you do choose to go for steel plate, use galvanized steel plate. it takes glue better and is generally found in thinner lighter amounts. its also very easy to shape and cut.

 Rimmy wrote:
The game is very close to one quarter the scale. that would make the unit conversions very easy. just run everything at 25%

a 6" movement would be an inch and a half. 2" coherency would be half an inch and so on and so on.

I can only repeat what I already said: if you like, you can do it. The game won't be balanced, but you can, if it's fine to you.

you could also use velcro and felt for a gaming area.

In short: no.
It takes a lot more work, and the result is much poorer from many points of view. Plus you can't put your models on buildings (which you can do with magnetic paint, as shown here: https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/gamer-s-pictures/pekel ) and the added base height is very much.
Magents are by far easier to use, to fit, and nicer to look at.

if you do choose to go for steel plate, use galvanized steel plate. it takes glue better and is generally found in thinner lighter amounts. its also very easy to shape and cut.

Not really necessary. We're using flat metallic boards we buy at the hardware store for less than 5$ each, nicely framed and perfect size (A3 or A4). Glue and paint stick perfectly, and the magentic adherence is mostly dependent on the strenght of the magnets and the weight of the models, rather than the thickness of paint.

We like to keep things easy for everyone and always working!

Pocket warhammer is a brilliant idea.

What I really like about it is the scaling. I can invite my friend over and play a game without needing to keep a 6" * 4" table at my house.

 Dirinel wrote:

 Rimmy wrote:
The game is very close to one quarter the scale. that would make the unit conversions very easy. just run everything at 25%

a 6" movement would be an inch and a half. 2" coherency would be half an inch and so on and so on.

I can only repeat what I already said: if you like, you can do it. The game won't be balanced, but you can, if it's fine to you.
well, like was previously established, warhammer is not a full to scale game to begin with, so its never going to work 100%.

you could also use velcro and felt for a gaming area.

In short: no.
It takes a lot more work, and the result is much poorer from many points of view. Plus you can't put your models on buildings (which you can do with magnetic paint, as shown here: https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/gamer-s-pictures/pekel ) and the added base height is very much.
Magents are by far easier to use, to fit, and nicer to look at.

While I appreciate magnets, they are also expensive. you can buy pre made velcro dots that are self adhesive. it IS a possibility.

if you do choose to go for steel plate, use galvanized steel plate. it takes glue better and is generally found in thinner lighter amounts. its also very easy to shape and cut.

Not really necessary. We're using flat metallic boards we buy at the hardware store for less than 5$ each, nicely framed and perfect size (A3 or A4). Glue and paint stick perfectly, and the magentic adherence is mostly dependent on the strenght of the magnets and the weight of the models, rather than the thickness of paint.

We like to keep things easy for everyone and always working!

this isn't a matter of neccesity. depending on the grade, standard not treated steel will develop rust as you paint it or use a water based adhesive. this will cause your paint or glues to start to slide off and chip very quickly. Galvanized plate doesn't corrode anywhere near as fast, and will look better, longer under current modeling techniques.

As I said, I appreciate your efforts greatly, but you're not the only one to ever do this.

 Rimmy wrote:
this isn't a matter of neccesity. depending on the grade, standard not treated steel will develop rust as you paint it or use a water based adhesive. this will cause your paint or glues to start to slide off and chip very quickly. Galvanized plate doesn't corrode anywhere near as fast, and will look better, longer under current modeling techniques.

On the website we never suggest plain steel as gaming surface, but only whiteboards. There is a dedicated section about the tables: https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/tools/the-tables .
Whiteboards are easily available office supplies, they are cheap, and come pre-painted. The "paint" is tipically a PolyEThylene coating (PET), which makes them water-proof; other coatings work just as well anyway. For more information there is even a wikipedia page on whiteboards!
Out of experience I'm comfortable saying that paint, glue and sand work just fine. Right now our tables, after more than one year of (ab)use, are still O.K.


And of course, there is a "Gamer's Gallery" for all the people that want to show their work. Pekel, for example, nicely executed the very same idea a few years ago and kindly agreed on sharing his pictures. Being a project "from the gamers, to the gamers" we always appreciate this kind of contribution!

white boards are a good option. I don't typically look for them as a building platform largely because i'm looking in hardware stores. (where galvanized sheets are a plenty)

Its very relative too since I make all of my own terrain and source my own materials.

thats a darn good idea too.

remind me to share with you what we've done as we get everything together!

 Rimmy wrote:
remind me to share with you what we've done as we get everything together!

Sure! I think you have a PM.

Being Sunday, it's about time for our weekly update. This week we spent some time to write an article and answer to a recurring question:
"How can I differentiate two infantry models with similar equipment at 6mm scale?"

The article is of particular interest for all the Imperial Guard and Space Marine players out there.
Check it out!

More updates on Pocket Warhammer! In the form of pictures, this week we show nine new images in our Chaos Space Marine section of the gallery ;-)

Enjoy the pictures, and don't forget it's all 6mm!

https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/gallery/chaos-space-marine

If i were going to play, I would just make some custom ruler sticks for Pocket 40K. Converting game rules from 25mm to 15mm is easy, as you simply use a centimeter tape instead of inches for a (rough) 50% scale, but as Epic is 25% the size, I would just mark some sticks (or some fabric ribbon for flexible tape style measuring) in 1/4 inch segments with a sharpie as if they were inches. Maybe just a number at every ten, even.

Easy peasy. The inch segments of 40K are just increments in an abstract number that is easy to measure in at the end of the day, if a well- known set. As long as you scale them the same, they still measure the same.

 AegisGrimm wrote:
If i were going to play, I would just make some custom ruler sticks for Pocket 40K. Converting game rules from 25mm to 15mm is easy, as you simply use a centimeter tape instead of inches for a (rough) 50% scale, but as Epic is 25% the size, I would just mark some sticks (or some fabric ribbon for flexible tape style measuring) in 1/4 inch segments with a sharpie as if they were inches. Maybe just a number at every ten, even.

Easy peasy. The inch segments of 40K are just increments in an abstract number that is easy to measure in at the end of the day, if a well- known set. As long as you scale them the same, they still measure the same.

That's more or less what happened in the beginning. We took transparent plastic strips and marked them at intervals of 6mm for the first 6 "inches", then at intervals of 36".
That was before we published the printable meters on the site. It's kinda easier just to print it. Saved all those afternoons when we forgot to bring the meters.

Ahhh, didn't see the printable meters, lol.

There is a white dwarf article in an issue around the 200 mark that has a guy who used the epic models to play 40k on a flight.

I'm no where near my collection of wd so I can't give you an exact number, but suffice to say that it has been done before to great effect.

This Sunday's weekly update we publish two articles:

The first, quite long and a bit complicated, is meant to explain reasons behind rescaling factors, common mistakes, and how we avoided the latters by using the formers.

The second, much, much easier, is a tutorial on how to produce loads of 6mm round magnetic bases in the blink of an eye!

Enjoy!

Sunday update!

This week we provide the full tutorial to make a Dark Eldar Razorwing using plasticard and green stuff.

https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/conversions/razorwing

If there are Dark Eldar players out there considering Pocket Warhammer 40K, they should definitely check out this tutorial!

Wow. That is some dedication to the hobby. I congratulate you for doing all of that instead of just using an Epic Nightwing Interceptor painted in DE color.

Freaking awesome. Great job by you and your crew!

Thanks for the compliments! We always try to give our best when presenting something!

Yet one more issue about Dark Eldar. This time around we just wanted to update the Dark Eldar gallery, which was somewhat old:

https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/gallery/dark-eldar

Some of the miniatures were made using Eldar 6mm models. Some other were made as shown in the tutorial section.

Enjoy!

New pictures in the Gamer's section this week. Drax shows his big armies of Eldar, Ultramarine and Space Wolves.
https://sites.google.com/site/pocketw40k/home/gamer-s-pictures/drax

I did this with a few friends back in the early 90s so we could play on the bus to games day.
We mounted everything on pins and made the board out of a backgammon board covered in cork floor tile.
We used custom measuring sticks.

This. Is. Amazing....

I have a bunch of Ork Epic stuff somewhere, this makes me think I should bust it out...