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Made in gb
Grovelin' Grot





Hey Folks,
Well got my contemptor finished what you think ?







Andy

3000 POints Worldeaters
My Ork Deff Skulls thread
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/385406.page 
   
Made in us
Power-Hungry Cultist of Tzeentch






Holy gak that loooks sweet!

-FrostTooth

3000 points - Space Wolves
500 points-Pre HeresyThousand sons
500 points-Death Guard

"For Russ and the WolfTime!" 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Pasadena

I like the lack of spikey bits. Especially since, if the new starter is any indication, we are moving away from the Spikey Marines aesthetic.

Las Vegas Open Head Judge
I'm sorry if it hurts your feelings or pride, but your credentials matter. Even on the internet.
"If you do not have the knowledge, you do not have the right to the opinion." -Plato

 
   
Made in de
Devastating Dark Reaper





Germany

Very good work. The only thin bugging me is the blue-white sign on his
chest, it looks unclean. Maybe some more highlighting? But the rest of the model is awesome!

1500pts
My eldar blog


 
   
Made in gb
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle





Oxfordshire UK

 Sir Calvin wrote:
Very good work. The only thin bugging me is the blue-white sign on his
chest, it looks unclean. Maybe some more highlighting? But the rest of the model is awesome!


Thats the original World Eaters badge, pre-heresy. FWIW, I agree, it could be a bit sharper, but the freehand work is pretty sweet! Good job and a great mini all around


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




I have to agree with Calvin, the model looks sweet except for the world eaters logo. I would try to clean it up a good bit or just go for a silhouette effect, perhaps with black and gold? Anyways not knocking the model at all, it looks amazing, but that logo just doesn't do the rest of the model justice, IMO.
   
Made in gb
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Stevenage, UK

I love the placement of all the battle damage, you've got the amount just right, but you can make it look a little better by black-lining the edges.
Usually you'd paint the chips black first then metal over the top, leaving just the edge of the black showing...but in this case if you're careful enough you can get away with doing the outlines.

Check out steps 5 and 6 on this tutorial to see what I mean:
http://warpaintguy.blogspot.co.uk/2010/12/painting-chipped-armour-battle-damage.html

"Hard pressed on my right. My centre is yielding. Impossible to manoeuvre. Situation excellent. I am attacking." - General Ferdinand Foch  
   
 
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