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Hey guys,

I got some Forge World PH armor and this is the first resin kit from Forge World I have.
I have washed it 3 times and none of them got the shiny oily texture off the pieces.
I tried:
Soaking in warm water, then brushing with old toothbrush and rinsing
and Rinsing under warm soapy water and brushing
I dont know what I did wrong but any advice would be welcome

Thanks

Ask your mom to wash it the same way she washes greasy pans ( well with a tooth brush instead of steel wool lol )

 chainsword135 wrote:
Hey guys,

I got some Forge World PH armor and this is the first resin kit from Forge World I have.
I have washed it 3 times and none of them got the shiny oily texture off the pieces.
I tried:
Soaking in warm water, then brushing with old toothbrush and rinsing
and Rinsing under warm soapy water and brushing
I don't know what I did wrong but any advice would be welcome

Thanks

Photos would be helpful in this case.

Sometimes the resin does not cure properly and it will seem to 'sweat'. In those cases it is best to contact Forge World(via telephone is best. They're a friendly and polite bunch, but they get a massive amount of email and have very little staff to deal with it) and explain the situation.

With that said...
1) What kind of soap did you use? Some soaps do not actually remove the release compound, instead just leaving it sitting on there. I use Dawn dish soap, specifically the "blue kind". It's a bit gentler on both your hands and the models...plus it's blue!
2) Is the "shiny oily texture" something which you can actively feel with your fingers, or is it just an appearance?
3) This is something which does not really get considered, but did you clean the toothbrush before using it? Sometimes they have residual amounts of toothpaste on them, which leaves a stain of its own which appears similar to the "shiny oily texture".

1) I used Palmolive Washing Liquid, its blue too lol
2) I dont think I can feel it on my fingers, but you got it spot on with the "sweating" look
3) OHH well I feel stupid, this may be it, even though it was a pretty old toothbrush. Does this affect the way paint goes on though?

 chainsword135 wrote:
1) I used Palmolive Washing Liquid, its blue too lol

Excellent! Halfway there!

2) I dont think I can feel it on my fingers, but you got it spot on with the "sweating" look

Okay, this is an important bit then. I'll explain in a moment...

3) OHH well I feel stupid, this may be it, even though it was a pretty old toothbrush. Does this affect the way paint goes on though?

What you can do is prior to priming, apply a coat of Gloss or Matte Varnish. This will give a bit of extra "tooth" for the primer to adhere to, and should give you a good idea as to whether or not you will have any problems. Check and see if any of the sprue pieces or pour gates that came with the models have the same "sweating" appearance, and then try priming those before moving on.

If the paint rubs off, then you should definitely call Forge World and explain what is going on.

Thanks alot for the tips man,
its just such a pain in the butt if I have to like ship them back or something because of sweating.
Bad first start to resin...

They usually will not ask for you to ship them back.

But like I said, some photos and testing will help a bit with an eDiagnosis.

Real primers doesn't need any coat to tooth on.

Thats what primers are made for.

To be specific, GW white & black spray cans are NOT primers.

yeah GW primers are expensive AND they dont do their job.
I use a matte black for cars haha works great you think that should do the trick luna?

 chainsword135 wrote:
yeah GW primers are expensive AND they dont do their job.
I use a matte black for cars haha works great you think that should do the trick luna?

If you did wash it yes.

If its like smooth shinny and slippery, that might be just the smooth surface and not the grease.
than matt car primers would work (well it works for metal, no reason it wouldnt work on resin )

And yes, even GW staff admits those can sprays are spray paints not primers -_-

Should work.

The nice thing about most your aerosol primers is the solvents they use will cut though anything which may be leaching out of a bad batch of resin.

If you ordered from them though, I would tend to get in touch and let them know of the issue you are having. One of the downsides to claiming to be the greatest and best - is that you are held to a higher standard...so they should replace whatever is messed up.

A good quality enamel primer though will make it a non issue though if you prefer to just work with what you have.

 chainsword135 wrote:
yeah GW primers are expensive AND they dont do their job.

Certainly they do not.

An alternative is Vallejo's primers and Army Painter's primers as well.

 Kanluwen wrote:

 chainsword135 wrote:
yeah GW primers are expensive AND they dont do their job.

Certainly they do not.

An alternative is Vallejo's primers and Army Painter's primers as well.

Wait... what?

If all else fails, a little toothpaste on the brush and a lot of water can often get the release off. We're talking an amount about the size of a space marine head - not half a tube.

Toothpaste IS an abrasive (gentle though it is), with it's fine grade clay particles (kaolin - a fine white porcelain clay - is often found in toothpaste - it's what give it its slightly gritty feel) it's good for some polishing tasks, too.

If you washed it with a toothbrush and dishsoap, allowed it to dry completely and still have issues, then something has gone wonkey.

Haven't had any problems with FW and GW spray, I even based a few times forgetting to wash and it still worked. I use Krylon as alternates, just started and they are working great so far.

I would think the issue was with your can and not the model if you washed it...

Kan and Luna, try not to kill each other please lol!

the best toothbrush for cleaning fw resin is an old sonicare head. when you switch to a new head keep the old one and use on resin.

Also keep in mind, OP, grease tend to float ontop of the water. If you were scrubbing in a tub of some sort, and pull the pieces out, it'll be going through that layer of grease again.

So dont forget to get rid of that top layer first :'D