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just wondering, is there a point or is it intelligent to apply gloss/sealer via airbrush?

I tend to use an airbrush to apply everything that goes over the whole model. My main reason is to avoid excessive build up, though it also just goes a bit faster since I will usually have 4 or 5 figures which are at any given stage and I can do them all pretty quick.

One thing you really wanna make sure you do is clean that stuff outta your airbrush as soon as you're done. Blast some hot water through there, and maybe some cleaner too. You don't want that varnish drying inside.

 Micky wrote:
One thing you really wanna make sure you do is clean that stuff outta your airbrush as soon as you're done. Blast some hot water through there, and maybe some cleaner too. You don't want that varnish drying inside.

This.

Actually, I would say the real question is: do you need to use gloss?

If the answer to that is yes, then almost by default, the answer on how to apply it would be by airbrush.

I matte coat my tau with an airbrush (testors clear acryl - its amazing) and do gloss touchups on my nids (liquitex high gloss - thinned slightly with 90% alcohol).

The ONLY time I bother with putting gloss on with a brush is when i am going to use decals.....

One school of thought is gloss before matte in order to provide even surfaces for the matte so it is the same over all the different paints (sometimes you can see minor differences in sheen with the various paints, inks and washes).

Decals as you have mentioned, in order to avoid silvering. I use decals on maybe 3/4 of my figures and models.

Locking down things which can be affected by other paints easily. Micropen panel lines and oil washes make a mess...actually a lot of things will wipe out micro pens, including lacquer clear coats like Dullcote.

Finally, you have things like Lovecraftian creatures...

But it isnt always needed...I almost always do though for one reason or another.

 Sean_OBrien wrote:
One school of thought is gloss before matte in order to provide even surfaces for the matte so it is the same over all the different paints (sometimes you can see minor differences in sheen with the various paints, inks and washes).

Decals as you have mentioned, in order to avoid silvering. I use decals on maybe 3/4 of my figures and models.

Locking down things which can be affected by other paints easily. Micropen panel lines and oil washes make a mess...actually a lot of things will wipe out micro pens, including lacquer clear coats like Dullcote.

Finally, you have things like Lovecraftian creatures...

But it isnt always needed...I almost always do though for one reason or another.

see with decals, i understand you apply a layer of gloss varnish to provide a perfectly clean, clear and smooth surface for the decal to adhere to without trapping air-bubbles. I haven't got any lovecraftian creatures, but i will be receiving my Bones in the next month here...... so I'm looking into what to do, and also because I'm considering finishing off the models I have, and since MWG is having a sale and still has some varnish left...........
I figured I'd ask, since avoiding the use of aerosols might be considered to be a good thing?

Good to know about the micro pens. I use them to do my Great Company insignia, and have been using Dulcote to seal. It is pretty vicious stuff. Plan on switching to something else once the can's empty so I can airbrush. However, a predator and 10 Sky Claws will get it. A coat or two of Future prior to the Dulcote I think should be good enough.

To the OP: One other reason to use an airbrush is you have a lot more control over the volume that is going on the mini, plus much finer atomization of the varnish, thus a smoother coat which is also more efficient.

If you are really careful, you can avoid it...but a light coat of a water based varnish before the laquer will lock the pens in with fewer problems.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

since avoiding the use of aerosols might be considered to be a good thing?

Never cared too much for polar bears anyway...

The nice thing about airbrushes versus rattle cans is that the various issues related to them like not shaking enough, many of the humidity/temperature problems, cloggs, propellant issues near the bottom of the can...all those are avoided.

Of course you also have a nearly infinite variety of colors as well, and finishes, and sheens and materials. Almost anything used can be put through an airbrush.