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Awesome stuff. I am glad it helped out.

Update on my solvent-testing:

I'm currently tinkering around with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and Acetone (about 95:5 iPrOH:Acetone).

Ripped Red Primer right of a failsprayed miniature after ~10 minutes in the ultrasonic bath but would probably work without that.

Regarding Heptane: It softens up the plastic without damaging it or taking away details. I think some crafty tinkerer could use it to change the way an arm or a leg is bending or something similar. After drying it becomes kind of decently solid again, but really, use with EXTREME care. By my guesstimate the soaked part has to stay in heptane for at least a day before it is properly softened! I did some torsion-deforming on basic sprue and it worked pretty nice, hardening over the course of an hour or so afterwards.

Just tried it, can confirm it worked fine on plastic tactical marines! Although it has a little trouble getting primer off, in my case.

Thank you. Please check out my other videos if you dare.
Peace

Hi, great vid cheers! I may have missed this but does nail polish remover with acetone in it still work for metals? I don't want to see Gil Galad melting before my very eyes...

Cheers!

Yes, metal takes anything you throw at it short of actual acids.

The base however will melt in acetone, as will any additional bits and kitbashed parts that aren't metal, so you better remember if you've added something non-metallic before you put it into acetone.

Ok cheers! Will have to take off his base then...
Thanks!

How did it go Mr Galenus?

Awesome tutorial!!! I WILL be giving that a try!

That is great. Thank you

So been getting a lot great comments on this video.
You think I should make a better quality video?

 spudkins wrote:
So been getting a lot great comments on this video.
You think I should make a better quality video?

Why did you choose that preview image?

Brilliant! Thanks a lot for this video. I have many poorly painted space marines which I can re paint now!

Warped-I used it because it was the first thing I put in to google.

Allsaint- You will have many models again

Just got 5 old metal assault termies on ebay that have been resprayed black over paint.

As soon as they arrive I am doing this!

Awesome stuff. Glad it helps out

Hey everyone,
I am might record a higher quality version of this video. What you think?

It's not like it's a tutorial on tiny details and precision painting. No need I'd say.

Nive tip man. Very helpful because you use a material that we can all found in our countries!

Has anyone ever used a ultrasonic cleaner? I want to buy one, but I'm curious as to what "level" you need for it to work

I have. It's a good help. We have a pretty standard VWR ultrasonic bath that I use. Works wonders on metal miniatures submerged in THF and assists nicely when used with i-PrOH on plastic minis.

Can you link one that would be a good standard cleaner.?

One's as good as the other. The more power, the better, in general.

 Kosake wrote:
One's as good as the other. The more power, the better, in general.

What about a heater? Is that necessary?

You going to use the ultra cleaner to strip the models?

From my experience, just the prolonged sonication will allready increase the temperature in the bath to something around 35-40 °C. Make it much higher and THF (used for metals) will start to boil iirc and plastics may become soft or something.

So do you ad the Acatone to the ultra cleaner?

Old gaming acquaintance of mine told me years ago he uses engine degreaser as a paint stripper. Few months ago, decided to give it a try (Clean-Rite Purple Power, found at the local Wal-Mart), and I haven't looked back. I've used it on plastic and metal minis, sometimes leaving them in a jar with the product for days. It has not failed me.

Method is simple: take a glass jar (I use an old salsa jar and a candle jar), place your minis inside, add degreaser till it covers the minis, close it up and walk away until you're ready to clean 'em. Pull 'em out, get a bucket/sink of warm water for rinsing, and have at them with a (cut down) toothbrush. How long you leave minis in depends on the paint/primer/layers involved, but it has removed paint from a few months/years ago, to stripping minis whose metal hadn't seen the light of day for 30+ years. Acrylics, enamels...no problem.

Depending on the brand (I've only used the one), the scent/ventilation is a very minor consideration. In spite of the standard warnings on the product, I've never had an issue with using it in an unventilated space and bare-handed the entire time I use it (which is usually until my fingers cramp up from holding too many small parts).

As a side (questionable) benefit, it also loosens the bond of cyanoacrylate glue with ease. Discovered this when stripping another batch from eBay. Pulled a mini from the degreaser, the arms, shoulder pads, weapons - anything joined by super glue - just fell apart. Can be of benefit, as now I can mix and match the bits as I please.

Also, just because it's been used doesn't mean you need to throw the degreaser out. Many times, I've used a jar of the stuff until I couldn't handle parts getting out of eye sight in the dirty liquid.

 spudkins wrote:
So do you ad the Acatone to the ultra cleaner?

The ultrasonic bath is filled with water. I put the miniatures in a jar, from pickeled gherkins, jam, whatever; fill it with the desired solvent (iPrOH for plastics, THF (works better than acetone) for metals), hang the jar inside from an exterior frame and switch the thing on for 20-30 minutes.

I am thinking of doing another version of this video. A HD edition.