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Simple, what are your heldrake tactics?

lol heldrake tactics that was a good one, you had me for a second.XD

Fly over enemies burn things.

Fly on the table, roll dice, kill stuff

Were we playing a MMO, I would tell you "Place face on keyboard. Move checks around on keys. Take prize winnings"

Seriously, there are a few things to remember when using helldrakes.
* You can vector strike over anything the wings touch. You don't need to only vector strike over the base.
* Your AV 10 rear is much less resilient than your AV 12 front/sides. Its better to fly off the board and lose a round of flaming than show your rear to every gun on the table.
* One terminator IC in a squad and completely shut down your burn if you don't place your models right. Be careful where your final position is.
* Make sure your drake has LoS to its target. Don't place yourself hoping to flame guys that are behind a tank.
* You can use your helldrake to block. For some unknown reason, models are scared to fly under the helldrake. You can use the helldrake to block movement. I've used helldrakes before to block a land raider from moving up onto my objective.

That and don't forget about the demon and will not die rules.

Otherwise, yeah... not exactly much of a tactical unit.

That's an excellent point. Remembering when to use the power that lets you reroll wounds. You want to use it when your hitting your first priority target. You don't want to lose it, the ability but don't want to waste it on grots. I usually burn it when I find a squad I can completely cover by the template that I want removed.

Also, it will not die cannot be used if your are in ongoing reservers.

Putting your Helturkeys in hover mode once you've killed all your opponents INF, can let you cap objectives in that one game mode that allows your Fast Attack to become scoring units XD

Remember that the baleflamer is turret mounted and can shoot at things that are behind it

This is how you Dragon.

What are people's view on baleflamer vs hades autocannon? I have gone hades due to the fact I have bucket loads of anti marine stuff. My army is khorne cc based so I lack in long rangeanti transport and anti air support. Both things the autocautocannon excells at

NEVER take that piece of garbage lol

You're a Chaos player! Set people on FIRE!

But seriously, Drake = BS 3 hitting on 4s no re rolls, where Template = Auto hit and for the most part wounding most basic MEQ infantry on 2+

You can use Meteoric strike to do better than the Auto Cannon, and then flame things.

lol, as stated no tactics for turkey just fly on and burn loyalist scum. i make sure to always make sure any turn i dont fly off board to set myself up to vector strike every time. otherwise its a wasted str7 hit. Also always remember to roll your daemon thing because every game I swear I forget it and its frustrating after it gets shot down.

Heldrake does as Heldrake wants. Seriously, the Heldrake is the faceroll of facerolls.

People are better prepared to Hell Drakes these days. Almost everyone is prepared with some sort of anti air, or a list that can ignore fliers. Impact is less.

 Juggalo17 wrote:
What are people's view on baleflamer vs hades autocannon? I have gone hades due to the fact I have bucket loads of anti marine stuff. My army is khorne cc based so I lack in long rangeanti transport and anti air support. Both things the autocautocannon excells at

Being BS 3 makes the autocannon less attractive. While you can use tzeentch allies to give it prescience to help with the poor BS, its not really all that awesome.

On a similar note, you can also grimoire your helldrake to give it a 3++ save. However, I suspect thats just overkill.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Exalbaru wrote:
lol, as stated no tactics for turkey just fly on and burn loyalist scum. i make sure to always make sure any turn i dont fly off board to set myself up to vector strike every time. otherwise its a wasted str7 hit.

First of all, you don't lose your vector strikes when you go off the board. You lose your baleflamer shot when you go off the board. You can still vector strike when you leave the board and when you come on the board.

As I mentioned earlier, there are times you want to fly off the board. Going for that extra strike sometimes is not worth showing your AV10 rear to the enemy.

Its all about RoI (return on investment). If your opponent has one scoring unit of strike squads left, its worth it to blast over 2 psydreads to vector strike and burn the squad down -- knowing that your going to be taking 2.6 STR 8 hits on your AV 10 rear.

However, if that same strike squad is in a rhino, the RoI is significantly less, as a single vector strike will not likely kill the rhino. (You need 2 strikes to reliably kill it). As such, your better served just vector striking the rhino and coming on the next turn.

Remember with a 36" move, you can influence any point on the board you choose to when you come from ongoing reserves.

uberjoras wrote:
This is how you Dragon.

+1

I think this pretty much sums up the helldrake. TROGDORRRRR!!!!

Well, its quite simple to make the Helldrake work.
If the enemy also uses flyers, you may want to go second. Otherwise, your Helldrake may become a one hit wonder. If you face Necrons with several Night Scythes, it will be a one hit wonder anyway.

 greyknight12 wrote:

uberjoras wrote:
This is how you Dragon.

+1

I think this pretty much sums up the helldrake. TROGDORRRRR!!!!

I played this for far too long.

Have a Helldrake

Make sure no one can shoot your rear armour. That's really the only valid defensive tip.

 labmouse42 wrote:


Remember with a 36" move, you can influence any point on the board you choose to when you come from ongoing reserves.

Not true in hammer and anvil. HaA is the bane of heldrakes IMO.

 Red Corsair wrote:

 labmouse42 wrote:


Remember with a 36" move, you can influence any point on the board you choose to when you come from ongoing reserves.

Not true in hammer and anvil. HaA is the bane of heldrakes IMO.

36" Move + 12" Torrent + 8" Template (or is it 9")? that makes for a 56" threat range. The board is 4x6. The only way the Drake doesnt hurt you at all is if you are sitting still near your board edge. I'm not saying that it isn't likely that someone would be sitting back, but i'd hardly say that is a "bane." It just means the Heldrake won't do as much damage on it's first fly-by. Also, if your list is more aggressive, or midranged, you'll still feel the full brunt most likely.

As others have pointed out, the Heldrake hardly requires an excess of tactical prowess. The biggest mistakes I see people make are getting too impatient and showing rear armor. Also, remember, Vector Striking is randomized.

Point, maim, burn.

Don't hover.

Simple really.

 Selym wrote:
Point, maim, burn.

Don't hover.

Simple really.

dang dude. i saw this and thought the same thing.

burn, maim, kill.

Playing with Helldrakes is a precise science.

First, make sure you have enough spare points for three helldrakes, or six in 2000+ point games. This is essential.

Next, remember to bring all Helldrake models to the game in question. Helldrakes are pretty breakable, so make sure you protect the models during this crucial phase of the battle. Make sure they are all based and painted to tournament standard - your opponent will do anything they can to defeat your Helldrakes, including disqualifying them from play if they don't meet painting standards

Then, when the reserve rolls allow you to place your Helldrakes on the table, make sure they are placed somewhere within 100" of an enermy unit. This is absolutely vital, placing outside of 100" from the opponent can shut down your unit entirely.

Finally, just be careful not to roll all ones.

The only choice that matters with Helldrakes is "original autocannon recipe" or "extra flamer crispy." Always go for extra flamer crispy. Playing Trogdor the burninator as loudly and obnoxiously as possible as you set everything the enemy holds dear to them on fire is not necessary, but fun.