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 FlamestormA wrote:

Does anyone know a good way to remove the plastic glue off the plastic when it breaks off? I use files but it takes ages and it's impossible to reach some places on the model (e.g. the two holes in a SM torso).

I've cleaned up second hand models before. For small details at least I use a hobby knife like an exacto to slice the glue off. Sometimes it pops off, othertimes it requires more effort, occassionally some of the plastic is sliced off too.
Are the two holes the ones that appear on the back above the backpack stump? If so, they're not visible so ignore them, just get the surface flat so the backpack will sit flush. Sometimes it's easier to cut everything off, sand it flat, then carefully position into place.

If your files are taking ages to get anywhere, it may be that they are too fine for the work being asked of them. Get some coarser files. I have a nice big file I originally got for wax carving that is very coarse. I use it to smooth the bottoms of the feet on my space marine legs, it's quick but of course also easy to remove too much.

I don't know at what specific temps the superglue gets brittle but below freezing would be my guess. I had two army transport cases in my garage one with models I had used model glue on and the other was full of models I had bought from a buddy about a year before. My models were fine but the ones I got from my friend just started falling apart. It got below freezing maybe three times while they were out there.

 stubacca wrote:

 Hawky wrote:
I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

It isn't optimal because it isn't designed for use on resin

I know.

I just wrote my opinion. Contacta doesn't melt resin like plastic, but when you glue together two resin pieces with Contacta, it still create quite strong bond which withstands standard handling without breaking. You need to create significant force to break the bond. Even it isn't melted together.
I have bad experience with superglue, thats why i do not use them.
And Contecta still provides you more time to adjust the part. Minutes instead of seconds.

 Hawky wrote:

 stubacca wrote:

 Hawky wrote:
I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

It isn't optimal because it isn't designed for use on resin

I know.

I just wrote my opinion. Contacta doesn't melt resin like plastic, but when you glue together two resin pieces with Contacta, it still create quite strong bond which withstands standard handling without breaking. You need to create significant force to break the bond. Even it isn't melted together.
I have bad experience with superglue, thats why i do not use them.
And Contecta still provides you more time to adjust the part. Minutes instead of seconds.

Really?? I've used Contacta on Astorath the Grim and it was awful, any handling and the wings/backpack fell off

cadbren wrote:

 FlamestormA wrote:

Does anyone know a good way to remove the plastic glue off the plastic when it breaks off? I use files but it takes ages and it's impossible to reach some places on the model (e.g. the two holes in a SM torso).

I've cleaned up second hand models before. For small details at least I use a hobby knife like an exacto to slice the glue off. Sometimes it pops off, othertimes it requires more effort, occassionally some of the plastic is sliced off too.
Are the two holes the ones that appear on the back above the backpack stump? If so, they're not visible so ignore them, just get the surface flat so the backpack will sit flush. Sometimes it's easier to cut everything off, sand it flat, then carefully position into place.

If your files are taking ages to get anywhere, it may be that they are too fine for the work being asked of them. Get some coarser files. I have a nice big file I originally got for wax carving that is very coarse. I use it to smooth the bottoms of the feet on my space marine legs, it's quick but of course also easy to remove too much.

My files are too fine then, probably. I'll try to get more suitable ones. Thanks for that tip. Actually I meant the two 'holes' in the SM torso one where you put the head and the other one where the legs go.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Spartak wrote:
I don't know at what specific temps the superglue gets brittle but below freezing would be my guess. I had two army transport cases in my garage one with models I had used model glue on and the other was full of models I had bought from a buddy about a year before. My models were fine but the ones I got from my friend just started falling apart. It got below freezing maybe three times while they were out there.

Below freezing point is accurate enough, thanks. I have my models in my room, where I usually don't have below 0 degrees .

I use the standard Revell plastic glue (the one with the needle and also a more thinned one with brush for small/detailed areas) - works perfectly.

I can't imagine how they could fall apart, it's nearly impossible to break them by hand after they are glued as the plastic pieces melt into each other.

Another thing is Resin (I hate resin ... really, ... SO much) and Metal models - awefull to work with.

daisho wrote:
I use the standard Revell plastic glue (the one with the needle and also a more thinned one with brush for small/detailed areas) - works perfectly.

I can't imagine how they could fall apart, it's nearly impossible to break them by hand after they are glued as the plastic pieces melt into each other.

Another thing is Resin (I hate resin ... really, ... SO much) and Metal models - awefull to work with.

So Revell seems to be a popular choice. I'll probably get one and compare it to the GW one. And I share your view on resin .

I've always used the Gorilla Glue, the clear stuff that comes in the plastic bottle with a pointy blue cap, and it works like a charm for me. I used to use GW plastic glue when I was starting out, and yeah it's junk.

I find that the Best stuff that I've tried is from Poundland, I've never had any Models just randomly break, and I use it for everything.

For removing glue from the neck of the torso without using a knife, find a big drill bit of suitable size. Twist between your fingers. You can also get exacto blades of different shapes that would probably do the trick. Same with t'other side of torso.

daisho wrote:
I use the standard Revell plastic glue (the one with the needle and also a more thinned one with brush for small/detailed areas) - works perfectly.

I can't imagine how they could fall apart, it's nearly impossible to break them by hand after they are glued as the plastic pieces melt into each other.

Another thing is Resin (I hate resin ... really, ... SO much) and Metal models - awefull to work with.

Really, it depends a lot on the resin and who is making it.

I've had resin models from a variety of companies in the last 20 years - with the exception of FW, ALL of the rest are still intact from their original cleanup and glue-together.
FW resin is just a clusterfeth from the get-go.

Metal models are good. They teach you patience - and once you can modifiy them, you can modify ANYTHING.

Revell, Humbrol, Testors, Tamiya, etc. THEY ALL make a liquid polystyrene cement in a jar or bottle form. ALL do pretty much the same job, are cheaper than GW's gak and work.

I only just finished re-gluing the main part of a Fantasy Watchtower that had come apart because of the GW glue. I have a couple of other kits I used that glue on that have the same structural integrity problems Including a Tamiya Tiger I.

My friend uses the GW glue and insists that she's not had any problems. I just figured they had some bad batches out and I went back to Revell Contacta.

 chromedog wrote:

Metal models are good. They teach you patience - and once you can modifiy them, you can modify ANYTHING.

I started 40k with Grey Knights (back in the days where they had those better-looking metal terminators), but I had an awefull super-glue - I had to press the pieces at least 2-3min together until they would hold on their own. I was about to freak out

GW plastic glue is a terrible product...

this stuff is the best...it also comes in a non toxic blue container variety...your models will probably never break again.