Switch Theme:

suggested Airbrush  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in it
Fresh-Faced New User




Hi Guys,
I know that this question was just said but i want to know what airbrush (kit, if possible ) you would suggest to a newbie... I want an airbrush that I could use for very long time...
   
Made in gb
Jealous that Horus is Warmaster




all over the world

i've just bought a mid priced (around 150 euro) gravity fed badger airbrush. i bought a super cheap one for undercoating in the past - it was crap. i also possessed the top of the range harder and steenbeck airbrush as a treat for myself but never used it enough to warrant keeping it. The advice when i researched one was 'buy the most expensive one you can afford', however i'm still learning. go with a reliable brand and you probably wont go far from wrong with a mid range

if a dolphin will jump out of water for fish, just imagine what it would do for chips? 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

For longevity, your going to need access to spare parts, needles, nozles, seals etc.
Shop around and see what brands you can get parts for closest to home.
Personally I really Like Harder & Steenbeck, Even vallejo supply a H&S Ultra with their VMA set.
My H&S Evolution Silverline is just lovely to use.

Other favoriters around the interwebs include Badger, Paasche and Iwata. See what you can get parts for and go from there.

Alternatively, get a cheap chinese made airbrush for under £20, and when it breaks get another the cheap ones arent particularly worth repairing; theyre so cheap that the parts cost too large a chunk of the whole thing usualy.
While some of the cheap ones are really very good, some are a bit more finicky than we expect from the well known brands.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/10/25 03:37:51


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker






For a beginner, I recommend going with a brush on the cheaper end until you figure things out like proper cleaning techniques. Personally, I ended up killing my first airbrush by soaking the entire thing in airbrush cleaner, and I was glad to have only spent $70 on it. The Iwata Neo is a great brush to learn on. I highly recommend it.
   
Made in it
Fresh-Faced New User




Thanks Nate. With This Iwata Neo can i do The detail on The miniatures? Let me explain better, this airbrush have a nuzzle or needle for The details? 0.2 or 0.15
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

HairySticks wrote:
For longevity, your going to need access to spare parts, needles, nozles, seals etc.


This is incredibly important and I second this advice. For me, I have Amazon Prime, and Amazon stocks most Bader parts so I can have them overnight for $4. If you decide on a brush that is difficult to get parts for in a timely manner, you will want to allocate a little extra up front to get some extra things - a spare needle, nozzle, that sort of thing, so you don't get stuck in a pinch.

For my money, I like the Badger 150 3-in-1, it's very versatile. $65 bucks shipped and you get a fine, medium, and large needle and head set. This is for the US, of course - I know some brands are a little different in Europe so I don't know the exact equivalent.

I also second the guy who said to get a cheaper one for the first brush because you're going to screw it up with improper cleaning. I did the exact same thing,only with me it was pure Simple Green for days; turns out that eats the chrome off the brush.



This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/10/25 09:46:35


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

 Ouze wrote:

I also second the guy who said to get a cheaper one for the first brush because you're going to screw it up with improper cleaning. I did the exact same thing,only with me it was pure Simple Green for days; turns out that eats the chrome off the brush.



Yeah anything with vinegar in it will corrode chrome really quick, which includes household glass cleaners, thats a big reason why window cleaners is bad to thin with. Use automotive grade stuff if you have to use it... but still dont use it cus it has ammonia in it :/
I got an airbrush with solvent resistant ptfe seals, (H&S evolution silverline solo) and it holds upto being cleaned with pure acetone just fine, I've bought new seals for it once in 2 years or so.

'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: