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Made in se
Grovelin' Grot




Sweden

I got an Ork Bommer for christmas (yay!), but I have never assembled a model of that size and type before.

Would GW thin plastic glue do the trick, or do I need some other glue? What do you recommend?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/12/26 10:28:30


 
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

Assuming it is a polystyrene model you should use polystyrene cement. The GW cement is probably the worst on the market. It's really thick and gloppy. Get yourself a bottle of liquid plastic weld instead.

http://www.tesco.com/direct/humbrol-28ml-liquid-poly-cement/290-0552.prd?pageLevel=&skuId=290-0552&kpid=290-0552&gclid=CIWYpZ6BzLsCFa3KtAodQH8APg

If you don't like using liquid cement, the Revell thin cement called Contacta is good.

http://www.worldwideshoppingmall.co.uk/toys/revell-contacta-39604.asp

If the Bommer is a Forge World model it is made of resin and should be assembled with super glue. Make sure to wash the parts before assembly, to get rid of any mould release agent.

I'm writing a load of fiction. My latest story starts here... This is the index of all the stories...

We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

For the big sections, like the wings, I would dry fit them, than tape them tightly into place on the outside with blue painter's tape. After making one more check that everything was in place, I would glue them with Testor's Model Master cement:



I believe this is essentially the same stuff as the Contacta Kilkrazy referenced, except it has an ingredient in the US banned elsewhere.


I would do the the same for the very large part assemblies. Let it dry overnight without messing with it after you get the glue down.

For the rest of it I would use my usual Loctite Ultra gel:



I think is probably the best all-around superglue on the market for warhams whether they be plastic or resin.

As with any model, it will be easier to paint if you build sub assembles and paint them, and then assemble it at the end instead of assembling the whole kit and then trying to paint it.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/12/25 18:40:14


 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to the guy who subscribed just to post a massive ASCII dong in the chat and immediately get banned.

 Flinty wrote:
The benefit of slate is that its.actually a.rock with rock like properties. The downside is that it's a rock
 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Black Templar Predator Pilot




Roseville, CA

Gw glue is not just the most expensive option. It is also quite literally the worst glue I've ever used. The bond is weak and brittle 80% of the time. I use testors plastic cement for everything which works by melting the plastic together just a bit. It's great stuff for all sizes of models. If you are unsure of a bond, you can also try 2 part epoxy but that takes longer to set and is really more desirable for resin models
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

 Ouze wrote:
...I would glue them with Testor's Model Master cement:

This. Accept no substitutes.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/12/25 19:46:05


 
   
Made in se
Grovelin' Grot




Sweden

Thanks all the tips. I appreciate it.

   
Made in au
Rookie Pilot






Melbourne, Australia

+1 for Revell Contacta. Sets in seconds and is very strong

 
   
 
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