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Hi! Straight to the point: I wanted to share the glue I use on Games Workshop Plastic Miniatures. I've found it far superior to GW plastic Glue or really any other glue I've tried. It's very much like rubber cement, in that once you glue something it will stay glued, but you can pull it apart without causing damage to your mini. Here goes!

So here it is. Amazing Goop Craft Arte, I just buy it at Michaels craft store.


Just apply a healthy amount to part of what you want to glue and press and hold for a few seconds. After that just leave it for a hour or so and it'll be solid enough to prime and paint. It'll achieve full bond in a day or so.

If you decide to take apart a model then it's a as easy as pulling the parts off. As you can see from this ork boy, it stretches quite a bit.




And there you have it! The arm was entirely undamaged and all you have left to do is pull of the residue with a your fingers of a pair of tweezers!


After that It'll be just as new! (I know it doesn't look like it here but trust me it'll be good.)


NOTE: It only work well with plastic (As far as I know) I know it won't work with Finecast, and I have yet to test it on metal minis. Your FAR better off with PVA glue for terrain projects as well

Happy Wargaming!

Overlord Ghazghkull Mag Uruk Thraka.

It seems a similar type to the E6000 used by decoru artists. E6000 is not recommended for polystyrene, and I have found it to soften and warp large thin sheets used for terrain building. However that would not be a problem on the inside of joints of figure models. It works really well on metal figures.

I've found to work great on Plastic GW models. It does Not work on Failcast and I have yet to try it on metal minis.
White glue is far better for polystyrene.

 Overlord Thraka wrote:
I've found to work great on Plastic GW models. It does Not work on Failcast and I have yet to try it on metal minis.
White glue is far better for polystyrene.

White glue is usually referred to as PVA glue.

Also, GW plastic glues are awful. Just awful. The thick glue doesn't compete with the thin glue, and the thin glue isn't even close to the size, price or adhesion life of the Rewell Contacta Professional Brand.

I mostly like it because I first assembled my Ork boyz as Slugga boyz. With this stuff I was able to rip the arms off intact, and not have to use a craft knife to slice of the broken parts

A glue greater than GW Plastic Glue (Cheaper too!)

Let the parade commence!

Also for swapable arms, I'd just say use pins or magnets. It's a bit easier than having to reglue each swap.

I was looking for a thread like this!
Mind if I ask a couple of questions?

1. Does it make the attachment brittle? I've always found my models break way too easily because of the attachment being brittle.

2. How much would this cost?

Thanks for putting this thread up!

Isn't almost every glue cheaper and greater than GW plastic glue?

i'm over here with some super glue, stuff works fine for me, and I am pretty heavy handed with my minis when playing.

From all sources I've heard, GW glues suck. They're obviously over priced, but in addition to that, they suck, lol. Almost anything is better.

I've had great success with Testors Model Master plastic cement and also Revell's plastic glue. I used a Testors bottle for about 10 years before it ran out and never had any problems with it. Bought the Revell and that works well too.

For resin (finecast) and metal, I like Loctite superglue. comes in a convenient bottle that doesn't make a mess and is plenty strong. For stuff that is highly stressed, I use Araldite Epoxy glue, it's pretty damned strong and holds most things together. The downside is you need to mix the parts together, so you inevitably waste a lot of glue because you have to mix more than you need for the join and also it's very slow, you can only do 1 or 2 joins every 5 minutes. But for metals that you're worried about breaking, epoxy is great.

If you want your polystyrene or ABS plastic models to be very strongly bonded, the best cement is liquid plastic cement such as Ambroid Pro Weld.

The Revell Contacta is another very good cement for plastic, slightly thickened to make it easier to apply to surfaces in spots and thin lines.

Superglue is excellent for resin models. It works OK on metal models and is very convenient as it sets quickly.

Epoxy cement is stronger but harder to work with. Araldite two part epoxy is so strong it has been used to assemble buildings. E6000 is an epoxy like cement that doesn't require mixing. The bond is less strong but a bit more flexible, which can be good on metal as it is less crackable.

PVA is best for materials like paper, cardboard, flock and so on. It is often used to put the cockpit canopies on model aircraft as it cannot craze clear plastic. It's not good for assembling load bearing parts because the bond is rather weak on plastic.

Hot glue can be useful for assembling large bits of terrain that use a mixture of materials, especially if plastics like polypropylene are involved as they do not react to normal plastic cement. Hot glue is cheap in bulk compared to Superglue or epoxy, and sets quickly.

So how does glue stand up to transportation?

Seriously? Just use superglue. It's absolutely the only thing you need.

SkavenLord wrote:
I was looking for a thread like this!
Mind if I ask a couple of questions?

1. Does it make the attachment brittle? I've always found my models break way too easily because of the attachment being brittle.

2. How much would this cost?

Thanks for putting this thread up!

I can't remember how much it cost. Got that tube several months ago and I'm still using it. It'll last a LONG time, there's so much glue in it.

As for durability, I've dropped many a thing of the table with this glue, including a battle wagon, nothing ever broke.

Ounce for ounce it's cheaper than super glue. I use super glue on Finecast Models.

As for transportation, you mean putting them in a box and taking them with you somewhere? Well I know from experience that you can pile a bunch of Minis assembled with that glue and just toss 'em in and dump 'em out without damage to the minis. Can't say anything about paint damage but the models themselves will be just fine.