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Im having trouble finding a conversion chart for washes. Ive got all the old one, flesh wash, brown ink, black in, green ink, etc. Im looking to find out what they turned into in the new paints range. I believe they are now called "shades".... Anyone help me out?!? Mainly need to find out what Citadel Shade: Seraphim Sepia used to be...

Thanks Dakka Dakka

There's a distinction between shades and inks.

Inks have a much denser pigment count per ml than washes, so will stain the whole area they're applied to.

Washes have a lower pigment density, and nearly always will have some anti surfactant of some sort added in to encourage pooling in recesses and not on higher points.

As you appear to be referring to GW products, and GW haven't produced true inks in quite a while, I can't really be more specific in terms of translations, as we are talking years, possibly even decades.

To specifically answer your one question, before the current range launched, the sepia was Gryphonne Sepia.

I actually prefer the current shades to the older washes, as there's more of them, and they tend to be darker, so actually shade as they're intended, whereas some, Baal Red in the old range being probably the worst offender, were just too neutral a colour to really do the job. I know that not everyone is universally happy with them, but they're one of my favourite parts of the 'modular' systems we have now.

Riekland flesh shade or agrax earth shade. Both are close. Probably flesh shade, I don't have any sepia to compare to.

Imnewherewheresthebathroom wrote:
Riekland flesh shade or agrax earth shade. Both are close. Probably flesh shade, I don't have any sepia to compare to.

So you're saying that either the dark chocolate brown wash, or the flesh wash, are closer matches to the new sepia wash than the old sepia wash?

Hmmm... That's not what my paint shelves would concur with.

Ya I wanted to try and wash some tyranids I have from a buddy. Just wanted to see if I could use an old wash/ink instead of running and buying a new one (sepia). If it works well id like to buy a big boxed set haha!!

Well, if it is a genuine bona fide ink you're using, rather than a GW wash or shade, then you'll need to make sure you thin it well, and ideally add some flow improver to get the result you're after.

If you use an ink undiluted, the effect you'll likely end up with is somewhat akin to having painted a thin coat of paint over the model, with some concentration in the recesses.