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Made in us
Experienced Saurus Scar-Veteran





California the Southern

So I'm not very good at the whole non- metallic metal. I'll continue to give it a try, but in the meantime, it seems I have far too many models that require some blinged out gold.

What do you guys recommend? I'm currently playing around with Vallejo's "Glorious Gold," and while it looks decent once it dries, putting it on seems to be problematic for me.

For whatever reason, it seems every gold paint I try wants to come out watery, blotchy, lumpy, or a combination of all three. I've tried straight from the pot/ bottle, diluted, thinned, watered down, mixed... and still that color doesn't want to work for me. I know metallic paints can be a bit finnicky, but I don't remember having this problem with the color when I was younger and getting into the hobby.

I've tried various brands as well, and still seem to meet with results that I'm not super pleased with. My brother will use the same brands and get far more smooth and consistent results, yet uses many of the same techniques I do.

So I turn to you Dakka- what's your recommendation for gold paint? Stick with what I've got, try someone else's brand, or be lame and just fake it with yellows and browns?

Poorly lit photos of my ever- growing collection of completely unrelated models!

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Watch and listen to me ramble about these minis before ruining them with paint!
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Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Vallejo Liquid Gold range.



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Did you look into his stuff ?

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/liquid-gold/family/11


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Made in us
Experienced Saurus Scar-Veteran





California the Southern

Huh. Hadn't seen those liquid golds before.

Alcohol based though? Never tried any of those. The mention of sediment in the paint itself makes me wonder if the stuff I've got just needs to be shaken a bit more vigorously than it usually is as well.

Poorly lit photos of my ever- growing collection of completely unrelated models!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/627383.page#7436324.html
Watch and listen to me ramble about these minis before ruining them with paint!
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Tzeentch Aspiring Sorcerer Riding a Disc






Battle Barge Impossible Fortress

I like GW's Burnished Gold with sepia wash, then Burnished Gold highlights.. woo
   
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Experienced Saurus Scar-Veteran





California the Southern

I've used the Citadel paints in the past, but I get a bit hung up on the pots vs droppers.

How is it in terms of smoothness? Does it get all the lumpy sediment at the bottom of it as well?

Poorly lit photos of my ever- growing collection of completely unrelated models!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/627383.page#7436324.html
Watch and listen to me ramble about these minis before ruining them with paint!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmCB2mWIxhYF8Q36d2Am_2A 
   
Made in us
Sickening Carrion





Niagara Falls, NY

 highlord tamburlaine wrote:
Huh. Hadn't seen those liquid golds before.

Alcohol based though? Never tried any of those. The mention of sediment in the paint itself makes me wonder if the stuff I've got just needs to be shaken a bit more vigorously than it usually is as well.


+1 for the liquid gold series. They do need a good shake before using but they really do stand out compared to GW's range. When using them you use 90% or more isopropal alchohal to thin the paint and clean your brush which should be synthetic. You have to be very careful not to get any moisture in the pots though as the paint oxidizes. The coverage is pretty awesome too, a little goes a long way it seems. The only down side is you pretty much have to get them online in the states and they are kinda pricey. (found mine on amazon) I should also mention that depending on how often you use them, the pots have a shelf life after opening.

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Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

 highlord tamburlaine wrote:
Huh. Hadn't seen those liquid golds before.

Alcohol based though? Never tried any of those. The mention of sediment in the paint itself makes me wonder if the stuff I've got just needs to be shaken a bit more vigorously than it usually is as well.


Nah, I've just taken the jump with liquid metals and the difference is night and day with even allegedly good acrylic metals, yes you should shake any metallics vigorously so all the sediment is back in suspension, but that won't make even a fraction of difference to the finished article.

A couple of synthetic brushes and some 99% alcohol was all the extra kit I needed, I was a bit cautious, but as long as you don't let water near them, using the IPA instead, they handle just like water based acrylics (with a slightly more vigorous drying time)

I've only a small area of a WIP model done so far, but the sword looks like its made of metal, rather than painted silver, which is the highest praise I can think to give it.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut







There is a good chance that you really need to shake it up better. in general, since the metallic pigment is heavier it requires more mixing than standard paint, think twice as long. Some metallic paintss are also going to depend on what you do for an under coat. Using brown under gold is going to look better faster and appear les splochy than a black under coat, same goes for grey/white under silver.

Another technique to consider is to mix the metallic paint with regular paint (brown or grey depending) for a more solid color and use this layer as shadow.

I have done these to good affect with GW and P3 paints. Haven't tried Liquid Gold.

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

How I do gold anymore:

Paint with P3 Rucksack Tan (a yellow brown)
Ink with a black ink
Drybrush with the gold paint.

It gives nice deep results

If you think it is not getting mixed enough, put a fishing weight or the like inside the bottle to help mix when you shake it.
   
Made in gb
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

Have just taken a small pic of my WIP, hopefully it conveys how bright the silver is compared to normal acrylic metallics.


We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut







 SQRT(-2) wrote:
How I do gold anymore:

Paint with P3 Rucksack Tan (a yellow brown)
Ink with a black ink
Drybrush with the gold paint.

It gives nice deep results

If you think it is not getting mixed enough, put a fishing weight or the like inside the bottle to help mix when you shake it.


Sorry, the fishing weight is a bad idea. If you don't use the paint quickly, the weight might actually rust and add a pigment you don't necessarily want. A good alternative is glass or stone beads that have some weight but are not rust prone.

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

 tdwg83 wrote:
 SQRT(-2) wrote:
How I do gold anymore:

Paint with P3 Rucksack Tan (a yellow brown)
Ink with a black ink
Drybrush with the gold paint.

It gives nice deep results

If you think it is not getting mixed enough, put a fishing weight or the like inside the bottle to help mix when you shake it.


Sorry, the fishing weight is a bad idea. If you don't use the paint quickly, the weight might actually rust and add a pigment you don't necessarily want. A good alternative is glass or stone beads that have some weight but are not rust prone.


Good point. I did not think of that. I just had fishing weights lying around. I think I will phase in some other weights. Thanks.
   
Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut




i like balthazar gold
   
 
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