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Hey Dakka,
I was looking at picking up a couple of 40k models (Helbrecht and the Emp's Champion) and was thinking of doing some kit-bashing with the two and one of the main things I was considering was replacing Helbrects entire right arm and head both of which come already attached to body, so I was wondering for those of you that have worked with resin before know how easy it is to cut/remove parts from resin models. Thanks in advance!

It's certainly easier than cutting steel.

It's pretty easy. I think it may even be weaker than plastic but I could be wrong. The reason I say that is I find that resin/finecast models with intricately detailed parts extruding from the model tend to snap or chip off easier than plastic. But this could just be that finecast/resin details will in some cases be thinner than plastic variants, which can be kind of fat and rounded ( for example, a power sword. )

As long as you're using something precise enough and being careful, it should go fine. I just use an x-acto knife and it never fails me.

No, don't use a blade to cut off bits you need. Use a saw, a saw will make a flat even cut and allow you to re-use both the main part and the cut of bit of the model. Glueing the parts back to another sawed off area will be much easier with two perfectly flat surfaces.

I use what is called a "track saw" intended for model RR tracks.

Yes, cutting resin is pretty easy. Cutting the Finecast resin is super easy. If you are sawing it (and you should for any large cut), wear a dust mask. Breathing resin dust not the best idea.

As far as saws, I always prefer a jeweler's saw, which you should be able to get at any well-stocked model hobby store or online:



(If by chance, you are still working with any old metal figs, the jeweler's saw will cut even through those with ease.)

 Sir Bubbles wrote:
I think it [resin] may even be weaker than plastic but I could be wrong.

Less resilient, at least, as the resins used to cast miniatures tend to be more brittle than styrene. That brittleness is why saws are generally preferred to knives or clippers for all but the absolute thinnest cuts. Saws remove material to make room for the width of the blade, while knives put pressure outward, as well as downward, as the blade wedges its way into the material. On soft materials like styrene, this results in a bit of deformation around the cut. On brittle materials, that stress can result in surface chips or deep cracks.

More generally, on saws: For most modeling tasks, I prefer a razor saw to a jeweler's. Razor saws cut faster than all but the largest jeweler's saw blades (which have just as wide a kerf) and just as cleanly. They're also easier to keep straight on long cuts (depth of blade keeps it in line as it follows the kerf) and the blades are much sturdier (there's a reason jeweler's saw blades are almost never sold individually, but by the dozen or gross ). I love my jeweler's saw, mind you, but reserve it for the tasks that only it (and a handful of other specialist tools that I'm conveniently ignoring) can do - tight patterns, in situ cuts (fully enclosed, started from a pilot hole within the face of a piece), etc. I almost exclusively use it vertically, in conjunction with a bench block, and it only comes out (for models, at least) when the position of a cut makes razor saw use impossible. YMMV, of course, but I find the jeweler's saw much more of an occasional savior than a reliable default tool.

 cento wrote:
Breathing resin dust not the best idea.

Breathing any dust at all is not the best idea. Resin dust isn't bad because it's a toxic material, it's bad because it's fine dust. The dust from sawing/sanding plastic (or any other material) is just as bad.

Thanks for the advice you guys! I'll look into picking up a track saw next time at a hobby shop. Also kind of tempted (once i get the free) time to possibly start chronicling my marine army i've slowly been working. See ya around.

oadie speaks much truth here: razor saws for straight cuts and jeweler's saws for more complex cuts. For razor saws, Zona makes the best ones. They are far superior to Xacto brand saws and available in quite a few different tooth counts.

Tim (custom jeweler for 15+ years)

PS Sawing polyurethane resin is much easier than sawing polyester resin which is much harder. FW used to make many of their larger kits in polyester resin. Don't know if they still do...

 oadie wrote:

More generally, on saws: For most modeling tasks, I prefer a razor saw to a jeweler's. Razor saws cut faster than all but the largest jeweler's saw blades (which have just as wide a kerf) and just as cleanly. They're also easier to keep straight on long cuts (depth of blade keeps it in line as it follows the kerf) and the blades are much sturdier (there's a reason jeweler's saw blades are almost never sold individually, but by the dozen or gross ). I love my jeweler's saw, mind you, but reserve it for the tasks that only it (and a handful of other specialist tools that I'm conveniently ignoring) can do - tight patterns, in situ cuts (fully enclosed, started from a pilot hole within the face of a piece), etc. I almost exclusively use it vertically, in conjunction with a bench block, and it only comes out (for models, at least) when the position of a cut makes razor saw use impossible. YMMV, of course, but I find the jeweler's saw much more of an occasional savior than a reliable default tool.

I did that head swap using a poundland scalpel set, it was very simple

Nice!

Cutting resin is easy, be careful cutting thin resin as even small pressure applied can snap or otherwise damage it in unintended areas.

Cutting Finecast/Fw resin is easy but that isn't true of all resins. . A few years back I got some minis in a trade I suspect were recasts and that resin is alot harder and more akin to the brittle types used in the 1990's.

 oadie wrote:

 Sir Bubbles wrote:
I think it [resin] may even be weaker than plastic but I could be wrong.

Less resilient, at least, as the resins used to cast miniatures tend to be more brittle than styrene. That brittleness is why saws are generally preferred to knives or clippers for all but the absolute thinnest cuts. Saws remove material to make room for the width of the blade, while knives put pressure outward, as well as downward, as the blade wedges its way into the material. On soft materials like styrene, this results in a bit of deformation around the cut. On brittle materials, that stress can result in surface chips or deep cracks.

More generally, on saws: For most modeling tasks, I prefer a razor saw to a jeweler's. Razor saws cut faster than all but the largest jeweler's saw blades (which have just as wide a kerf) and just as cleanly. They're also easier to keep straight on long cuts (depth of blade keeps it in line as it follows the kerf) and the blades are much sturdier (there's a reason jeweler's saw blades are almost never sold individually, but by the dozen or gross ). I love my jeweler's saw, mind you, but reserve it for the tasks that only it (and a handful of other specialist tools that I'm conveniently ignoring) can do - tight patterns, in situ cuts (fully enclosed, started from a pilot hole within the face of a piece), etc. I almost exclusively use it vertically, in conjunction with a bench block, and it only comes out (for models, at least) when the position of a cut makes razor saw use impossible. YMMV, of course, but I find the jeweler's saw much more of an occasional savior than a reliable default tool.

Nice breakdown mate. I don't own a razor saw, instead I own a jewelers saw and a dremel (with an rpm regulator). Both of them go through all materials like a hot knife through butter . I will grab a razor saw though since you are very convincing on its use