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Kill3RKiD wrote: Also what is "saturn" varnish, is that matte or gloss?
You're probably thinking about satin varnish, which is a middle ground between matte and gloss.
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Abteilung is a high quality oil used by miniature painters, but you don't necessarily need to use such a high quality/dedicated paint. If you're new to it, they specific advice for uses they give might help you a lot.
I just plan on doing my basecoats and highlights along with detailing, then satin varnish followed by black/brown oil wash. Then a quick clean up of white spirit.
I just bought random oil paints from an art shop. As for running it through an airbrush, you usually buy oil paints in tubes and it's super thick, so no, I doubt you could airbrush it without thinning, lol.
I personally haven't airbrushed oils, though I've been told you can get some cool effects airbrushing it. For oil washing as most wargamers do it, it's easiest just to apply to with a brush directly to the crevices and areas of shadow, then when you clean up with the white spirit you can carefully blend it in to the surrounding area.
You can thin vallejo varnish with water just fine for airbrush use. I use an old cheapy airbrush to do it since I don't want to risk dried varnish building up inside my nice airbrush, but I'm not sure how much of a problem it would be so long as you clean it afterwards as usual.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/28 06:31:43
Ok, for an oil wash, you're going to want to use pretty much any oil paint - they're all pretty similar. Steer away from ones that are water soluble - you want the oily properties.
Black and brown are obvious choices. Oil paints use a relatively standard naming convention - you're looking for Lamp Black and, for brown, either Burnt Umber or Burnt Sienna (Sienna is lighter and more orangey). Paynes Grey might also be worth a try for a lighter wash.
Get the smallest tubes they do, you won't use much. Ratios depend on how thick you want the wash to be, but if I was making a GW-pot-sized amount of wash, I'd rarely use more than pea-sized amount of oil paint! Mix them with any sort of white spirit (artists mineral spirits cost more but smell less, I just use regular white spirit).
I assume you want to varnish with satin or gloss first to give the oil wash better flow? If so, both Vallejo and Minitaire do satin and gloss varnishes that can be airbrushed. Also, GWs Purity Seal is a satin varnish in a spray can and plenty of people make gloss varnish in a spray can, which I find much less hassle (and easier to take to a ventilated area, since airbrushed varnish is a bit worse for you than airbrushes acrylic paint.
How do I run satin varnish through the airbrush- is it thinned or just straight from the bottle?
It's a proper satin varnish from vellajo.
Oh sorry, my mistake. Recently I had been reading about using oil paint in an airbrush so that's where my mind went, lol. Yeah, you can probably spray the satin varnish without thinning, personally I like to thin it slightly though. I find if I don't thin it, it'll quickly clog up and either stop spraying or end up spraying in a very localised point (I assume because it's built up in the nozzle and effectively reduced the size of it? not sure).
I usually just thin it a tiny bit, like maybe 1 drop of vallejo airbrush thinner for every 4 or 5 drops of varnish, but the exact mix is obviously going to depend on your airbrush. I know a lot of people say just spray it unthinned, but personally that doesn't work too well with my brush and for what I want.
I haven't had it clog my airbrush to the point where running airbrush cleaner through it won't clear it pretty quick. I use Vallejo airbrush cleaner as well, gets it nice and clean nice and fast.
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/04/28 07:24:58
DON'T use any student range of oil paint - the pigment grain is too big to get the best results. I haven't used the MIG range but that could be worth a try. Google it with 'review' to see what people, who have used it, think.
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!
bubber wrote: DON'T use any student range of oil paint - the pigment grain is too big to get the best results. I haven't used the MIG range but that could be worth a try. Google it with 'review' to see what people, who have used it, think.
I just got done painting my first tank with an airbrush, oils, and powders. Overall, it was a fantastic experience and I plan on continuing to paint all my armor that way from now on. I have to say, I did use student oils because they were cheapest and didn't have any problem at all with them. How large is the pigment grain in comparison to "regular" oils? What effects would one be unable to achieve using student oils?
Budget/student oils aren't guaranteed to be poor quality, but the odds aren't in your favor. In experimenting with some super cheap black oil paint for washes, I found the results turned out grainy in all cases, regardless of the strength of the initial wash or the finish of the underlying surface. The pigment seemed to float and clump, leaving results more like a wash of extremely watery acrylic than a properly mixed ink wash. If your oils worked, keep using them.
The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
I'm using Blick Oil Colors. They seemed to have decent reviews on their website, so I went with them. Would you guys say these are yea or nay to use? If no, I guess I'll just make the switch to Winsor oils or something, and just buy smaller tubes of them.
Arts shops are great for this, Eckersleys have a stack of paints - I got a cheap winsor newton (WINTON) which Les uses above and it is pretty crap (black pigment too large), so I got the next one up (no idea what it is called).
Colours I got were Lamp Black and Burnt Umber (Winton version is fine) - DO NOT USE TURPS TO THIN, I fell for that trick
As for ratios, hard when the paint comes out like toothpaste, but 2:1 or 4:1 ~feels~ about right to me
Vallejo Satin Varnish works fine through my hp-cs 0.3mm
Particle size is as much a factor of the pigment being used as it is the quality of the paint. In order to maintain certain coverage or other requirements set by the manufacturers - many pigments have to be larger by their very nature (translucent crystals for example).
Hansa Yellow for example will generally be about 3 times larger than the particles in a Diarylide Yellow paint from the same manufacturer in the same line. Hansa Yellow Opaque - which is formulated with additional titanium dioxide to improve coverage will have particles about half the size of the regular Hansa Yellow - but the color isn't as bright due to the addition of the white pigment.
At the same time - some extremely high end paints are hand ground in order to replicate the materials used by the masters. These paints are often very coarse and almost always very inconsistent...but always very expensive (you can spend $250+ on a single tube of paint that looks a bit like Lava soap when it comes out of the tube).
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AngularDeath wrote: I'm using Blick Oil Colors. They seemed to have decent reviews on their website, so I went with them. Would you guys say these are yea or nay to use? If no, I guess I'll just make the switch to Winsor oils or something, and just buy smaller tubes of them.
Really no reason not to keep using them. Dick Blick's house brands are pretty good quality generally speaking. While I have my preferences, and others do as well - there isn't any reason to switch provided that what you are using works for you and your budget. If you come across a technique or color that doesn't seem to be quite right - pick up a tube from a different manufacturer...but don't throw out what isn't broken.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/29 06:01:18
Anyone try using Bob Ross oils - I have a stack of them.
If turps is bad, do you use white spirit instead or something else?
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!
