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Pretty happy with the yellow; primed white, smeared on Averland Sunset, then maybe too heavy on Devlan Mud. I detailed with Yriel Yellow and then the older bright yellow very lightly on the top. I used Leadbelcher on all the metal bits and Khorne Red with a layer of Wazdakka Red.

Not sure how to tackle writing small swear words on him since I have shaky brush control, and getting the angry face for the chapter symbol on the shoulder is vexing me. Suggestions?

Testors waterslide transfer kit to make decals?

Looks excellant. But MK 6 is the calmest of SM helmets.

katfude wrote:
Not sure how to tackle writing small swear words on him since I have shaky brush control, and getting the angry face for the chapter symbol on the shoulder is vexing me. Suggestions?

Fine-tipped markers. Sakura Pigma micron pens are generally the weapon of choice, being widely available (nearly any art/craft store caries them), coming in a variety of very fine nib sizes (down to .5mm), and having true black (Sharpies can have a reddish sheen to the ink if placed over a smooth surface) archival ink. The firm nib removes the issue of pressure dictating line width and the lack of flex makes it easier to place the ink only where you want it. Know that the ink does take a while to dry, though. I consider it a boon, as you can erase mistakes before they set and try again, but you do risk smudging your work if you aren't careful.

 sing your life wrote:
Looks excellant. But MK 6 is the calmest of SM helmets.

But they are also the best for painting little shark mouths on.

SQRT(-2) wrote:Testors waterslide transfer kit to make decals?

I'm going to look into this for sure. Thank you for the suggestion!

oadie wrote:Fine-tipped markers. Sakura Pigma micron pens are generally the weapon of choice, being widely available (nearly any art/craft store caries them), coming in a variety of very fine nib sizes (down to .5mm), and having true black (Sharpies can have a reddish sheen to the ink if placed over a smooth surface) archival ink. The firm nib removes the issue of pressure dictating line width and the lack of flex makes it easier to place the ink only where you want it. Know that the ink does take a while to dry, though. I consider it a boon, as you can erase mistakes before they set and try again, but you do risk smudging your work if you aren't careful.

I assumed something like this would be the answer, and you have confirmed. Thank you for the recoomendation! What do you use to effectively "erase" a mistake completely before it is dried? Just straight water?

Nevelon wrote:

 sing your life wrote:
Looks excellant. But MK 6 is the calmest of SM helmets.

But they are also the best for painting little shark mouths on.

Hahaha shark mouths. I agree they aren't as angry for sure, but I really do like MK6 and these are my only Space Marines so I wanted a couple of them. I'll really think about doing shark mouths now though!

If it's an easily accessible area and the ink is still fresh, I usually just wipe it away with a finger. A damp cotton bud or paper towel would also work, but can spread diluted ink and stain the surrounding area, if you aren't thorough. In tight spots, I'll brush vigorously with water, then soak everything up with a dry brush, repeating as necessary. Nine out of ten times, though, a finger swipe does the trick.

Much appreciated sir!