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Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

Hello dakka!

So Ive had an issue with painting small details and highlightingand im not sure how to fix it.

To start off I have a brain injury and because of that i dont have very much fine motor control over my hands.

Basically i can't keep a steady paintbrush and i always seem to put more paint than i intend to on the model.

I already have a stand with a magnifier to hold my models and my brushes are in good condition.

Does anyone have any suggestions to help me? Right now I can only put basic paint on my models and it is very frustrating.
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

I would recommend 2 things:

1. #2 flat brush. Because the brush is wide, you can actually lay paint on top of small details, through a drybrushing action, that doesn't require a ton of control. These are particular useful for things like parcment strips on purity seals, because the detail is linear and raised.

These are also very good for edge lining and highlighting.

2. Washes. Used with the flat brush above, the washes make it so that you don't have to paint all the way down to the edge.

   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

Thank you for the quick response! How do i paint the inside of those details though? Just base it with the color i would like then use the dry brush? And I'm nervous about messing my marines up with a wash, I've never attempted it before.
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

Can you give me a better idea of what details you are trying to paint?

I'd also recommend getting a couple of test models that you can just play around with. For example, find a throw away marine, put a dab of red paint on the eye lens, and then use a 000 brush to add some nuln oil wash to the middle, let capillary action take it to the edges, and see how it turns out.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/07 20:59:51


   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

sorry to hear about that buddy. i'd suggest finding a way to anchor your models, to keep them steady. i use blu tak, either on top of a paint pot for small items like heads, weapons etc, or straight onto the desk for larger pieces. if painting small areas is a problem, get a 4/0 brush..the smallest you can buy. this way you can build up paint in small spots, by using the smallest amounts possible.

Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children

Instagram: nagrakali_love_songs 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

ghilliemarine wrote:
Thank you for the quick response! How do i paint the inside of those details though? Just base it with the color i would like then use the dry brush? And I'm nervous about messing my marines up with a wash, I've never attempted it before.


Dry brushes and washes are a great tool. With practice you will feel like you are cheating, but the results are so nice you won't care!

Don't worry, if you mess them up you can give them a overnight soak in degreaser and brush the paint off with an old toothbrush. Easy to do and we have all had to do it at one time or another.

(I use this stuff, I find it at Walmart in the Auto dept.)


This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/08 02:49:00


 
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

 Ifurita wrote:
Can you give me a better idea of what details you are trying to paint?

I'd also recommend getting a couple of test models that you can just play around with. For example, find a throw away marine, put a dab of red paint on the eye lens, and then use a 000 brush to add some nuln oil wash to the middle, let capillary action take it to the edges, and see how it turns out.

Im trying to paint like the ejection port on bolters, crux terminatous, just the little detail pieces on the model.

Im on vacation right now but i will post a picture in a few days when i get back
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Oil washing can be pretty concealing of mistakes, you could wipe (or dry brush) the raised features and then cover the gap with the wash.

Normal washes may do the same if you want to test
   
Made in gb
Slaanesh Veteran Marine with Tentacles






South Yorkshire, England

I am by far from the best painter in the world. Infact I would struggle to say I'm even average. I lack the required precision skills to be able to effectively paint small details on models.

What I can say, however, is that I find dry brushing, washing and THINNING my paints to be an absoloute must when it comes to painting. Applying a thinner layer of paint where you might normally apply thicker paint, leaves the details more exposed, so when you come to wash them and dry brush over them, the details are picked out and look much better.

I strongly suggest buying some paint thinner, like the GW thinning medium or other great alternatives out there, if you don't have any already. Thin your paints to the consinstency of milk, and just take your time. One or two extra layers might be needed depending on your base coat. It'll mean your fine details are easier to pick out.

Then, Drybrush away

Check Out My Blog -
http://sanguinehammer.blogspot.co.uk
For he today that sheds his blood with me shall be my battle-brother eternal. 
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

Ok now don't laugh, Im having trouble with painting deep straight lines, like the robe and bolter, and im not sure if im doing the drybrushing right. I also dont know how to do the small skulls and ribbons, so what do you guys have to suggest?

Oh and if anyone is wondering, I base my models with stuff called, "Mica", it looks like gold under light but is very flakey and brittle. Looks nice on black models i think.

Also i dont know what to do about the left shoulder pad, i dont like how its turning out.

And if you want me to take anymore pictures of any part let me know, i just snapped a few general ones.
[Thumb - IMG_20140515_081603.jpg]

[Thumb - IMG_20140515_082107.jpg]

[Thumb - IMG_20140515_082147.jpg]

[Thumb - IMG_20140515_082251.jpg]

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/15 16:00:34


 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

OK, looks like you are hitting the details. Now practice, practice, practice.

Have you tried an wash on it? It goes in crevices and does those lines for you. I use the P3 Armor Wash myself, but there are several nice ones on the market. Just apply liberally and wait for it to dry.

Try some pictures with better light. Taking pictures of minis is an art in it's self. I myself am going to make a light box to help.
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

What color wash? White?
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

Black, it goes into the cracks and crevices and makes them all shadow like.
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

 SQRT(-2) wrote:
Black, it goes into the cracks and crevices and makes them all shadow like.
But my model is black? How does that work black on black? This is all new to me as before my brain injury i used to free paint
[Thumb - IMG_20140515_083304.jpg]
pre-injury

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/15 21:11:36


 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

Good point, I did not know if it was black or a dark blue. Black minis can be hard just because of that. Sorry I misunderstood.
   
Made in us
Death-Dealing Devastator




Sacramento, CA

 SQRT(-2) wrote:
Good point, I did not know if it was black or a dark blue. Black minis can be hard just because of that. Sorry I misunderstood.
No problem, i was just trying to clarify
   
Made in gb
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





Belfast

Hiya,

Black is hard to paint, a possibility that you could try would be to prime black, drybrush a dark grey (maybe 1:1 black to mechanicum standard grey) and then straight grey, then use nulin oil wash and then drybrush the grey back on lightly to pick up details.

I used this technique when painting Asmodai and it worked a treat.

Another idea that might work would be to lightly drybrush leadbelcher over the black basecoated model, then wash heavily with nulin oil, then go back over with the leadbelcher. It gives a nice worn look.

Layer detail work is a pain, and given your personal circumstances might be harder than it's worth so IMHO drybrushing would be the way forward for the armour.



Alternatively when I painted my ravenwing



For the Lion and Terra!

Because nothing in the galaxy is black and white, Mankind views the Space Marines as a last resort. The last line. When all else fails. They take up the burden. The noble defenders of Mankind. The last hope.

With finecast you can bypass the washing stage and throw them straight into the bin.

Or cut out the middleman and just flush some money down the toilet.
-Chromedog 
   
 
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